Seized Screws - Suggestions?
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Thread: Seized Screws - Suggestions?

  1. #1
    Senior Member BkCntryCrwlr's Avatar
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    Seized Screws - Suggestions?

    So I spent the past three weekends turning this:

    IMG_8233.JPG

    Into this:

    IMG_6104.JPG

    So now that I have a happy daughter, it was my time to go back to the garage and work on my trailer wheel mod. Turns out that the first thing that I needed to do was get this slow old '87 parted out and broke down to clear some room in the garage. I really struggle to understand how the '87's are fast...mine can't move without pushing it! Took the engine out, and stowed all the misc. parts in a box for future scrounging. The frame is in good shape if anyone needs one.

    IMG_6095.JPG

    Much to my surprise, after removing the side cover and cleaning everything to replace the drive sprocket I realize the current sprocket is a 12 tooth and is held in place by a circlip. 12 tooth vs. new 14 tooth:

    IMG_6099.JPG

    IMG_6103.JPG
    Last edited by BkCntryCrwlr; 03-05-2017 at 09:27 PM.
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    Senior Member BkCntryCrwlr's Avatar
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    So now, the challenge is that the two screws that hold the cover plate in place are seized. I want to replace the bearing and seal but can't budge the screws. Any thoughts?

    IMG_6105.JPG

    In attempting to remove one screw with a drill impact drive I wallowed out one of the screws. May be headed for an easy out, or? Any suggestions would be helpful. When all this goes back together, some anti-seize is in order.

    Hopefully, by the weekend I'll have new parts in hand, meaning two screws and a sprocket holder that were missing on the 12 tooth installation. I'm stoked to get the trailer wheel mounted with the 65 tooth rear sprocket but there always seems to be one more thing to do!
    Last edited by BkCntryCrwlr; 03-05-2017 at 09:25 PM.
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    Going through withdrawals, sold my other two TW's, down to one....Uhggghhh! Hidden Content

  3. #3
    Ken
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    Senior Member Ken's Avatar
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    I couldn't see your pic. If you can get a center punch dead center of that screw. Get a bit the same size as the shaft and drill the center and the head will pop right off. I actually suggest a left handed drill bit to do this. These drill in counterclockwise so your drill has to be in reverse. The reason is that sometimes when drilling it out counterclockwise they will hang up and unscrew out of the hole. Once you get the cover off you can try and lube it, vice grip it etc if it didn't come out when drilling.

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  5. #4
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    Small Chisel

    Couple hits straight down on the side
    of the stuck screw, to make a deep-enough
    mark so the chisel-tip fits inside and then turn
    the chisel at an angle(or use a small punch)
    and gently tap -- to drive the screw out.
    (Gently - to prevent case damage.)



    OR



    Use one of these:



    Bolt.jpg



    And on JIS screws,
    always start with one of these:


    JIS.jpg


    *On stuck screws, I will usually start off
    by tightening, in-order to feel if the
    torque is gonna 'give', a bit.

    Counter-Intuitive but that works sometimes, too.




    youngfred
    Last edited by youngfred; 03-05-2017 at 10:36 PM.

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    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    Try soaking with PB blaster for a day or two. Then carefully heat if it still doesn't want to move. If you can heat it without damaging paint, rubber or plastic parts that can help break it free. The impact driver was the correct try but it's hard to find the jis bits for the driver. I have used small cold chisles by striking strait down on an edge and then when there is a groove hitting it at an angle along the edge. Like Young fred mentions. Do you have a good vise grip? If you can get it to bite on the head give it a quick rap with a hammer to try and rotate and break it free. Then I would drill or Also since the head is messed up grind a flat groove with a dremil and use a flat blade with the hammer impact after PB and heat.
    Last edited by Tweaker; 03-05-2017 at 10:40 PM.
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    Member youngfred's Avatar
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    ...


    Punch.jpg


    youngfred
    Last edited by youngfred; 03-06-2017 at 07:31 AM.

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    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by youngfred View Post
    This is what I used.

    I think you have enough screw head left so one of these impact wrenches will still work. Harbor Freight.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  9. #8
    Senior Member TopPredator's Avatar
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    I've had my share of seized screws on my project BW. Here's what I used

    50% Transmission Fluid 50 % Acid Tone (thanks to Smitty Blackstone)
    JIS
    Mini vice Grips
    Dremel to cut slot to allow a standard screw driver
    Reverse drill bits
    Ez out
    Hammer
    Heat

    You will need Taps and oil
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  10. #9
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    The metal Yamaha uses is soft as warn butter.

    When I used the impact wrench the Phillips bit actually cut into the screw head and reformed the grooves into the same as the bit. So, use a slightly larger bit than one you think will be the correct size and I bet a couple of sharp wacks and that bolt will loosen right up. Good luck.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  11. #10
    Super Moderator JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    This sounds like a bad dream!

    Quote Originally Posted by TopPredator View Post
    I've had my share of seized screws on my project BW. Here's what I used

    50% Transmission Fluid 50 % Acid Tone (thanks to Smitty Blackstone)
    JIS
    Mini vice Grips
    Dremel to cut slot to allow a standard screw driver
    Reverse drill bits
    Ez out
    Hammer
    Heat

    You will need Taps and oil

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