06 200 starts but will not run...
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Thread: 06 200 starts but will not run...

  1. #1
    Junior Member Twistedthrottle's Avatar
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    06 200 starts but will not run...

    Hello everyone and I thank you for any direction you can give me.

    I've read and read but none seem to fit my bill

    I recieved a tw200 from my father after he passed. This 200 only has 1200 miles on it. I remember him saying that it would die after he rode for a bit. He thought it was cdi or stator

    I pulled it out recently and installed a new battery. I also pulled the carb before I even attempted to start. The carb had been drained and spotless.. I blew every orifice with cleaner and was all clear.

    After reinstalling the carb and battery. I used a test fuel tank (original needed cleaned)
    The bike started instantly and ran for about 2 seconds then died. Attempting to restart it would try but never start. Come back 1/2 hour and exactly the same thing...
    I tested the stator and I'm getting about .9 set at 200 ohms on my tester. Going to test again tomorrow with better tester.
    I also froze the cdi to see if it changed anything. Nothing has worked so far....

    It had a battery tender... is this something that could have prematurely effected the electronics
    Ken likes this.

  2. #2
    Senior Member GaryL's Avatar
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    Sounds more like a fuel delivery issue to me. You don't mention where you are located but before I did anything else I would attempt to find a known working carb from another TW and install it on yours. That would easily rule out the numerous other issues that could be possibilities.

    You should also check the air box for critter nests. Under the seat and behind the battery is the air intake. If it is clogged then no go! Numerous other issues could be causing your problems but you have to start one thing at a time with things like you describe.

    GaryL
    Last edited by GaryL; 06-01-2017 at 04:31 AM.
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  3. #3
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    The stator and CDI are expensive parts - so start with the simple things first

    I tend to agree with Gary - it sounds more likely to be a fuel supply issue .....
    littletommy and Ken like this.
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  5. #4
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Sounds like time to check the basic trilogy of internal combustion... fuel, spark and compression. Plus test any assumptions made so far.

    I would confirm good consistant fuel delivery to the carb’s float bowl. Make sure test tank is vented and delivering a good stream of fuel. Then open carb float bowls drain and confirm a good consistent stream of fuel is going into and then draining out of carb....if not this indicates problem with fuel delivery which can be 1) clogged filter just on top of float needle seat or 2) sticking float needle or 3) problem with plumbing from test tank.
    If passes this test then confirm proper static fuel level in float bowl....clear tubing attached to aforementioned drain fitting can act like a manometer tube and indicate fuel level.
    If starter is engaged for some seconds a properly functioning carb should pull detectable fuel through carb and into intake and cylinder. You could check for this by first disconnecting plug so engine will not fire, engage starter, then pull plug and inspect for fuel moisture and/or odor.
    Bike passes this test now? OK, perfect opportunity to put finger over that spark plug hole and spin starter to test for compression.
    Bike passes this test too? OK, perfect time to inspect plug and test to see if a good spark can be ​consistently and repeatedly detected for a period longer than the stated maximum observed run time mentioned in post#1. This gives you some feedback on relative health of the whole ignition circuit.

    I suspect somewhere along this chain of diagnosis you may find something amiss. Stay logical and systematic in your analysis.
    littletommy, Peterb, Ken and 2 others like this.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member dwil4's Avatar
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    U may have already tried this but have u been keeping the choke on when it cranks? If not then try that. If it runs with choke but dies without the choke then you know it's carb related. I know u said the passages seemed to be clean but it may not be clean enough to let in the needed fuel flow for proper running of the engine.
    Ken and Toecutter like this.

  7. #6
    Junior Member Twistedthrottle's Avatar
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    Hey thanks for the speedy and thorough responses.
    Update: reinstalled stator and removed carb again.. absolutely nothing plugged. Pilot and main was clear. Pulled the idle screw and reset it at 2 turns out and removed the air filter to insure nothing plugged. Inspected diaphram and needle.
    Carb looks like it's never had gas in it.

    Reinstalled carb
    Filled carb, drained with drain screw. Actually let run for a little bit to insure no blockage. .

    Engaged choke hit start button and it fires instantly..runs for 2-4 seconds and dies as if the kill switch was hit. No sputter just dies. Hit start button and bike sounds like it's going to start then nothing when you disengage the starter.
    Pulled spark plug boot then spark plug and it is moist.
    Good compression
    Grounded plug to check spark and it has decent spark.

    I'm really leaning cdi box but what do you think?
    Ken and Fred like this.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Bobo413's Avatar
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    Have you tried different fuel. I'm thinking maybe it's stale fuel. Or try starting fluid after it dies & see if it runs on that.
    Try adding Seafoam when you change fuel.
    Ken likes this.

  9. #8
    Senior Member Fast Eddie B's Avatar
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    I had a similar problem with a Bultaco trials bike I was fixing to sell.

    When I pulled the muffler off for cleaning, about two cups of bird seed poured out. Some mouse or bird had quite a collection going!

    Vacuumed it all out, and the bike then started and continued to run.

    A long shot, but a blocked exhaust can cause your symptom.
    Peterb, Ken and Fred like this.

  10. #9
    Senior Member dwil4's Avatar
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    I had a rats nest in an exhaust once and Mike bike would run but wouldn't open up. Definitely check the exhaust system. I have heard if coils that when the started to get hot they would stop firing but just a few seconds wouldn't be heating up.

  11. #10
    Senior Member socalnative's Avatar
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    You seem to have the fuel delivery good.
    If it really seems to want to start, or actually is running while cranking, I'd start looking to see if voltage is present while in the on position and not cranking.
    Tbe CDI can have intermittent issues but usually it's either good or bad. Not just weak. A coil on the other hand can become weaker or seems more prone to not working as well when it heats up.
    Sorry to go back to the carb, but spraying starter fluid into the intake, and finding out an engine will run like that, has found out proven many of my carb issues.

    You do have some previous history to go by, and the bike is very low miles, but don't assume the basics are good because it's basically new.

    The way you describe that it will start, and run, for a few seconds, when totally cold, but not start the next times, would lead me turn on the key and leave it for a few minutes then try the starter. If some electrical part is heating up with current it might not start and you might have ruled out the carb.

    I doubt 2-4 seconds, of running, is enough to push very tight valve clearances to the point of preventing the engine from running again.

    Marginal spark could do that though. It's much harder to spark under pressure, so you need a very strong spark with the plug out.

    I am a little cheap, so I would look for intake and exhaust blockage, as suggested, because it doesn't cost me much.

    Sorry for rambling. I'm a little lucky in that I have two TWs and can swap parts to find issues.

    I wouldn't be too happy to start buying random parts.
    Stick with it. It's just mechanical and can be fixed.
    admiral likes this.

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