Cylinder head and cylinder assembly problem
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Thread: Cylinder head and cylinder assembly problem

  1. #1
    Senior Member jgaff's Avatar
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    Cylinder head and cylinder assembly problem

    Hi all -

    Let's skip the background of how I got here, and suffice to say I am reassembling my 2010 TW200 cylinder and top end. I am having some issues with the order and location of the o-rings.

    The right rear cylinder stud is listed as having a gasket and/or an O-ring depending on what manual you check -

    between cylinder and crankcase
    Service manual page 4-59 - #8 - O-ring
    Parts catalog page B2 - REF NO. 8 - 90430-14131 - GASKET


    between head and cylinder
    Service manual page 4-63 - # 4 - O-ring
    Parts catalog page B3 - REF NO. 4 - 93210-13361 - O-RING
    Between the head and the cylinder the rubber ring around the dowel pin certainly could be called a 'gasket' and not an O-ring.

    Is there an O-ring BELOW the dowel pin between the head and the cylinder? My disassembly note are lacking here.


    Is there an O-ring BELOW the dowel pin between the cylinder and crankcase? If I remember correctly, and if my disassembly note are correct there is an O-ring at the very bottom of the stud hole.


    The order of pieces around the stud would be as follows, top to bottom -
    • washer
    • dowel pin with gasket around it
    • head gasket
    • O-ring in question
    • cylinder
    • dowel pin
    • O-ring in question
    • crankcase


    Am I correct? When I fitted everything together, the cylinder seemed a little lopsided, it was lifted high due to the very bottom O-ring. I assume this will compress but I have already had this together and apart so many times I'd rather do it the right way for once?

    THX

    JG
    elime likes this.
    2010, Happy Trails rack & side boxes, Ricochet skid plate, Clarke tank, Stearns seat cover, rejetted, Shinko 244 front tire.

    New England Denizens of Doom # TW200

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  2. #2
    Senior Member TW-Brian's Avatar
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    Yes, you are correct, there is an o-ring between the bottom of the cylinder and the top of the crankcase on the right rear cylinder stud.

    O-Ring.jpg

  3. #3
    Senior Member jgaff's Avatar
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    FOLLOW-UP -

    DONE!!!

    It did take a while, but the bike is back on the road.

    What happened and why -
    My bike lost all of its power. Clutch fully out and rev rev REVVV and no forward motion. I looked around at things -clutch seemed like it wasn't slipping, at least no smell. I started from the top down and checked the valves. My intake valve adjuster and it nut spun loose and bounced around inside the head, eventually jamming in the head. The valve stem got mushroomed from the rocker arm bashing away at it.

    Machine shop time, waiting for parts, wrong parts, waiting for tools to be delivered - after all the delays I have -

    - new intake valve
    - new intake valve adjuster and nut
    - new rings
    - new base gasket
    - new head gasket
    - new cylinder studs, washers, and associated gaskets
    - new exhaust gasket
    - new oil filter and new oil
    - new gaskets on valve covers, cam cover, oil drain plug, oil filter cover
    - new LED compatibly blinker relay - while doing the valve I noticed the original relay was loose from its rubber mount, hanging and melting against the exhaust.

    What it took to get there -

    - M6 x.75 bottoming tap - to re-thread the rocker arm, as the mashing against the valve step cause a little burr on the last bit of thread. Lesson? When you get a new part, thread it in where it is supposed to go ALL THE WAY IN!
    - ring pliers - $30 or more at most places!?!?! Sears didn't have any. I buckled down and got a pair marked on the shelf for $35 at Advanced Auto Parts. The clerk couldn't find a price in the system, said it was discontinued. Gave them to me for $0.05. Five cents. I went to Dunkin and those guys got a dozen donuts and coffee all around right after.
    - ring compressor - didn't even need it, easy enough to lube the rings and slip the cylinder down with a little twisting
    - lots of disassembly, reassembly, disassembly, reassembly...

    Learned -

    - Use a bungee cord to hold the timing chain up
    - take pictures of disassembly, LOTS of pictures
    - assume nothing
    - question everything
    - check that EVERY assembly goes together completely
    - this forum is an awesome resource

    THX to everyone for the help, advice, and suggestions. Good riding!

    JG
    2010, Happy Trails rack & side boxes, Ricochet skid plate, Clarke tank, Stearns seat cover, rejetted, Shinko 244 front tire.

    New England Denizens of Doom # TW200

    Try to understand things. Be nice to each other.

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  5. #4
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Best part of this story was the donuts...

    Glad you got it back on the road bro!!

    Quote Originally Posted by jgaff View Post
    FOLLOW-UP -

    DONE!!!

    It did take a while, but the bike is back on the road.

    What happened and why -
    My bike lost all of its power. Clutch fully out and rev rev REVVV and no forward motion. I looked around at things -clutch seemed like it wasn't slipping, at least no smell. I started from the top down and checked the valves. My intake valve adjuster and it nut spun loose and bounced around inside the head, eventually jamming in the head. The valve stem got mushroomed from the rocker arm bashing away at it.

    Machine shop time, waiting for parts, wrong parts, waiting for tools to be delivered - after all the delays I have -

    - new intake valve
    - new intake valve adjuster and nut
    - new rings
    - new base gasket
    - new head gasket
    - new cylinder studs, washers, and associated gaskets
    - new exhaust gasket
    - new oil filter and new oil
    - new gaskets on valve covers, cam cover, oil drain plug, oil filter cover
    - new LED compatibly blinker relay - while doing the valve I noticed the original relay was loose from its rubber mount, hanging and melting against the exhaust.

    What it took to get there -

    - M6 x.75 bottoming tap - to re-thread the rocker arm, as the mashing against the valve step cause a little burr on the last bit of thread. Lesson? When you get a new part, thread it in where it is supposed to go ALL THE WAY IN!
    - ring pliers - $30 or more at most places!?!?! Sears didn't have any. I buckled down and got a pair marked on the shelf for $35 at Advanced Auto Parts. The clerk couldn't find a price in the system, said it was discontinued. Gave them to me for $0.05. Five cents. I went to Dunkin and those guys got a dozen donuts and coffee all around right after.
    - ring compressor - didn't even need it, easy enough to lube the rings and slip the cylinder down with a little twisting
    - lots of disassembly, reassembly, disassembly, reassembly...

    Learned -

    - Use a bungee cord to hold the timing chain up
    - take pictures of disassembly, LOTS of pictures
    - assume nothing
    - question everything
    - check that EVERY assembly goes together completely
    - this forum is an awesome resource

    THX to everyone for the help, advice, and suggestions. Good riding!

    JG
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  6. #5
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    $35 for piston ring pliers? OUCH!

    I bought these so long ago they were made in the USA. And I have used them a whole lot. 30 or 40 years ago I think they were about $6 or $7. Has $7 inflated to $35?

    PC270031.JPG
    Last edited by elime; 07-05-2017 at 11:15 AM.
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    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  7. #6
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    I searched "Lisle 33500" and found all kinds of piston ring pliers for less than $10. Also found many for a lot more than 10 bucks.

    For example: Lisle Tools 33500 Piston Ring Installer | eBay
    cowboyjeff likes this.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  8. #7
    Senior Member jgaff's Avatar
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    Yah. I sometimes don't plan well. When I needed the pliers I didn't want to wait for shipping. But in the end, a nickel and some donuts worked out well!
    2010, Happy Trails rack & side boxes, Ricochet skid plate, Clarke tank, Stearns seat cover, rejetted, Shinko 244 front tire.

    New England Denizens of Doom # TW200

    Try to understand things. Be nice to each other.

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