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Thread: Plastic Repair

  1. #1
    Senior Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    Plastic Repair

    I have been trying to repair a front signal light arm with no luck, I tried Super Glue, I tried Fiber Glass, no luck, so I even tried melting the plastic with my sodering iron, It will not even stick to its self. Have any of you found anything that sticks to this kind of plastic?
    Last edited by cowboyjeff; 06-11-2017 at 12:34 PM.

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    Senior Member socalnative's Avatar
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    Isn't the flexible arm area a kind of rubber?

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    Senior Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    I think it is for the first couple inches and then it turns to a hard material before the lenses, mine broke off right at the starting of the lenses.

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    Senior Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    I just found a replacement on eBay for $32.00 including shipping, I ordered it. I steal would like to repair the broken on if possible.

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    Senior Member TopPredator's Avatar
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    I hot glued one of mine
    If I’m ever on LIFE SUPPORT, UNPLUG ME. Then plug me back in... See if that works. Hidden Content

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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Funny thing, just spent the weekend camp-n-ridin’ with a chemist and the subject of difficulty in building high molecular weight bonds in such materials came up. Simple laymen’s answer is you won’t rely get reliable penetration bonds with common adhesives but with scoring keyways and roughness on the surfaces to be joined one can at least improve a mechanical bond. By increasing the surface area for the adhesive and the scoring creates keyways for the adhesive to flow into one can create a mechanical “lock". Longer curing times for glues build longer chains with higher molecular weights and thus improve strength.
    Unfortunately after a full day’s riding and several adult beverages sitting around the campfire I cannot recall the chemist’s name for the class of adhesives with elastomizers that would work best on things like turn signal stalk. Sorry.
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  8. #7
    Senior Member cowboyjeff's Avatar
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    Thanks Fred, I have really made a mess out of it now trying to weld with a soldering iron. Toppredator I did not think to try a Glue gun, Im going to give it a try and see what happens. Thank you very much.
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  9. #8
    Senior Member GaryL's Avatar
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    I just fixed a hole in a buddies kayak he wore in it while dragging it many times. I could stick 3 fingers through the hole. I used fiberglass cloth and west marine epoxy resin and hardener. Kayaks are made from I believe PEF or PEV plastics very similar to a 5 gallon bucket and not much will stick to it very well. I used a wood rasp file to rough up the surface with fairly deep gouges. I wiped the area with acetone before applying the liquid and fiberglass cloth. I did 3 layers of the cloth/resin and let it dry over night to completely hard. SO far so good and the patch it holding quite well. Only time will tell from this point.

    I have a place here that welds this type of plastic but I have never seen it done or the resulting repair. What I suspect is both sides of the crack, just like in welding steel, must be heated and melted together or if using a glue it must have the ability to melt, penetrate or in some way attack both surfaces in order to make a good bond. I am a woodworker and can tell you for sure when I glue 2 pieces of wood together the glue line is often stronger than the wood itself. Never have had that result while messing with plastics and the various epoxies because there is no open pores for the glues to get in and bond to. Almost always plastic will brake again right at the repair seam.

    GaryL
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    Senior Member centralwarider's Avatar
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    I would glue it with these bro. Should be plug and play, incandescents, front and rears available, all four for less than $30, and they are short enough not to get crunched when the bike insists on resting alongside your route.

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  11. #10
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    I too have used the West Marine system successfully on rotomolded kayaks; pure white,available in a paste or putty.
    Another example of good product I have used on high impact nylon RC models; creamy color, unique odor as it cures, ductile, vended under a variety of names: 51cR-1vRBhL.jpg
    In addition to the roughening Gary does I also like to run a razor blade across the surfaces to be joined repeatedly at a variety of angles cutting mini-flaps for the adhesive to wrap around and grab in three dimensions.
    There are also UV activated adhesives that rely on a propogation reaction to cure but my experience and success are limited.
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