I've lost my spark!
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  1. #1
    Senior Member FortPayne's Avatar
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    Okay, thats just great. I end up on the technical help forum. Beautiful weather, a full tank, oh and no spark.



    Sorry in advance if lengthy.



    I rode my bike 70ish miles Friday. I dumped it hard twice on the devil's trail I found, but with seamingly no damage at all (thanks panniers). Afterwards I rode it 40 or more miles, stopping twice. Turned the bike off and came back. Cranked just fine. One of those times I stopped for about 30 minutes. Like I said, no problem. Why would there be?



    Saturday evening I hop on to do a quick ride and she turns and turns. Nothing doing. So I figured I knocked some tank crud loose and clogged the carb. Pulled it, cleaned it (it was very clean). Still nothing. So I checked for spark and Bingo! Using the starter I got no spark at all. Kicking the crap out of it I got intermittent spark fading to no spark.



    Tried 3 different spark plugs, no dice. The ignition coil checks out fine via OHM meter.



    Here is where I need help. The "pick up coil" came in at 843 ohms, over spec but not crazy bad. The "source coil" I get nothing. No continuity at all. I'm going to start tracing wires later but would like yall to chime in on a few things.



    1. Would a bad source coil cause NO spark?

    2. Do they go bad that suddenly; why?

    3. Yamaha defines them as "pick up coil" and "source coil" in the manual, but not on the parts diagram. Are they separate? Whats it called on the diagrams. More importantly do you have a good used one for dirt cheap?



    One other thing, the wires that come from my ?stator? are different colors than what comes off the harness. I just reconnected them as they came when I rebuilt it. Its been that way for 2100 miles. Yours different colors or do yall have brown to brown, red to red?



    Any other ideas, besides cussing yelling and screaming, which I've already done?



    1994 non cali

    3000 miles

    Tiny battery, though fully capable of staring it. It was and is still charged.

    Stock air and carb.
    Tenaciously Deviant Unwittingly Brilliant

  2. #2
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Senior Member FortPayne's Avatar
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    Thanks Rich. So the source coil is located on the stator assembly correct. Is it made on with the stator or can it be separated?



    I started tracing electrical and found the brown (yellow) wire to source coil had melted the rubber sheath and also melted through the kickstand switch wires. Any idea why it heated up so much? Just a symptom of it going bad?
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  5. #4
    Senior Member TW_in_BC's Avatar
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    The exact thing happened to me two years ago.

    Overnight, the pulse coil developed an "open circuit" (which I determined by following the Troubleshooting guide in the Manual) and she wouldn't spark.

    Unfortunately, the only solution for me was to replace the entire stator coil since everything was mounted on the same frame; not a terribly difficult job...just like changing your front sprocket!

    Two things to be wary of...the internal set screws that hold the coil in place are Loc-Tite'd, so you'll have to have a GOOD set of Allen wrenches, sockets would be better. I sheared off one of mine and had to have the local machine shop drill it out and put in a Heli-coil. The worse part of that, was that it was one of two screws that didn't need to be taken out to remove the coil! Live and learn...

    The other thing to watch for is that you don't pinch the wires when you re-install the engine casing; everything has a place.



    You'll need a new gasket, but while you're at it...now would be a good time to replace the front sprocket, front sprocket bearing and seal.
    2008 TW200
    Southwest corner of BC Canada

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  6. #5
    Senior Member FortPayne's Avatar
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    Thats what I was afraid of. Well, at least I know someone else had the same problem and came to the same solution. I just hope it didn't affect my cdi or anything else.
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  7. #6
    Senior Member operose's Avatar
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    You can replace just the source coil on the stator assembly, but beware. If you don't do it right it will come apart and F$(& your motor. I did it, they didn't even give me a tshirt nor did i stay in a Holiday Inn Express.



    I'm a nut, so if you were me and I were you, I'd get the varnish off the source coil, and unwind the wire counting turns. Find similar sized wire and rewind. Bingo Bango Bongo, sparky spark. Or if you have a decent paying job you can buy a stator, or maybe find a used one on ebay. None of the options are really that great. Someday I will come up with a solution for us all and we can rejoice in non-sucky stator goodness.
    ITCB

  8. #7
    Senior Member FortPayne's Avatar
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    Ok, brand new stator assembly, still no spark. On to my cdi. It's proving difficult to find a used one. I put an ad up in the classifieds. There is a used '99 cdi on ebay, but my bike is a '96 and they changed the part number in '98. Now if your still following all this I thought there were only 3 charging systems: the 87's, the 88-00, and the 01's & up.



    Will the '99 work on my bike? Any help would be much appreciated!
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  9. #8
    Member BuddyMc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fort Payne View Post
    Ok, brand new stator assembly, still no spark. On to my cdi. It's proving difficult to find a used one. I put an ad up in the classifieds. There is a used '99 cdi on ebay, but my bike is a '96 and they changed the part number in '98. Now if your still following all this I thought there were only 3 charging systems: the 87's, the 88-00, and the 01's & up.



    Will the '99 work on my bike? Any help would be much appreciated!




    I noticed there is a posting out there where a Member modified the ignition from a TTR-125 and installed it in his TW200. I read through it because i knew you where having issues. It was interesting to see that he actually cut the thing apart and dealt with the source coil separately. If I can find it I'll send you the link.
    Huntsville, Alabama - Have TW, Will Ride! All White 09 TW, D2Moto Pegs, Bridgestone 302 front tire, 2" higher bars, 3/4" fork preload spacer, 5wt Honda fork oil, 135mm fork oil level, exhaust tip mod, 2.5 turns out fuel mixture, 0.060 in needle shims, 130 main jet, 14/47 sprockets, 20w-50 Valvoline MC full synthetic oil, ImmixRacing rear rack, Bilt Bag on Rack, 1" front fender spacers, Battery Tender connections on new battery (installed 12/11), Coleman ATV seat cushion, 2 Agri Supply tool tubes, 30oz MSR Fuel Bottle, auxiliary 6 LED tail light, Sylvania Silverstar Ultra H4 headlight bulb, 2357 turn signals, and Superbright's 1157 LED Motorcycle Tail Light Bulb with 19 red & 6 white LEDs. Shortened rear turn signals. Bypassed kickstand switch.



    Plus a "new to me" 1995 Yamaha Virago XV 750G for Pavement Purposes!!

  10. #9
    Senior Member operose's Avatar
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    Yep that was my post. After that I switched to a system from a 1998 TW200 because I didn't anchor the source coil into my stator well enough. It came out of the stator ring and everything got chewed up by the flywheel.



    Now the CDI from the '98 appears to be bad, so I will probably switch back to the TTR setup. This is getting really frustrating. I've had my bike for 12 months as of this month and will now be on my 4th ignition setup. If I had a known-good stator I would just buy an ignition from ignitech.cz and call it a day, but cannot confirm at this time whether it is my stator or CDI that is causing grief.
    ITCB

  11. #10
    Senior Member FortPayne's Avatar
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    Its incredibly maddening that they charge so much for a cdi and stator just because they flippin can. A 1/3 of the value of the bike are those two components.



    At that price they should have lifetime replacement warranties then it wouldnt matter if they were crappy.
    Tenaciously Deviant Unwittingly Brilliant

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