Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove
the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil......Average load.
None 516 pounds
WD-40 238 pounds
PB Blaster 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench 127 pounds
Kano Kroil 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. The home brew was better than
any commercial product in this one particular test.
I hope this will prove benefical to all forum members ------Scotsman
Surprised sea foam deep creap isnt on there. Works great for everything!
'13 690 Enduro R too many frickin farkles...
'07 KLX250 farkled (wife's bike)
'86 BW80 farkled to size
'10 TW200 you will be missed
I have used kroil for many year. It really does work for the jobs I apply it to.
Happy Trails All
Ron in Boise
Wow, thanks for that info. I use Kroil because it works the best of any that I've ever tried.
I guess I need to try ATF-Acetone next time for a comparison.
I once had an old Johnson 35 h.p. outboard that was used in salt water. The 10 or so screws holding the exhaust cover on the side of the engine were corroded in place. I think the torque spec was something like 30 in. lbs. so they were never very tight but I snapped the head off one of the screws with a screw driver and the shaft part never budged. For a month I sprayed a little WD-40 on each of the screws and then to my surprise when I tried to unscrew them they all very easily came out. Even the broken shaft was little more than finger tight.
For me the moral was "give the oil time to work". Give it lots of time! My 2 cents worth.
Long live the internal combustion engine!
Would anyone suggest the ATF-acetone for soaking a rusty chain?
^ If it's an o-ring chain, penetrating oil may penetrate past the seals and dissolve the interior lube.
For rust removal, you could try soaking it in undiluted white vinegar. It works, I've done it, but I've never tried it on a motorcycle chain. If the chain is bad enough that you may have to toss it, I guess you could try it. After it's dry follow up with lube of course.
The value of the internet is that when you're wrong someone will immediately correct you, and when you're right, someone will immediately correct you". Lizrdbrth
I'm a fan of Kroil myself. While it's expensive, they had a promotion going on on their website for two king cans (13 oz I think) for $10 shipped for businesses. My dad mows lawn for our local community center, so I put in "Lee's Lawn Mowing Services" and got the cans shipped to their house in about 4 days. Otherwise, each can is about $13-14 a piece. The same promotion might be going on yet.
Still, great stuff.
1999 Pontiac Firebird Formula Hardtop M6 - not stock
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
2007 TW200 - O-ring chain, Moose Racing hand guards and tail rack, Tourmaster tailbag, Slipstreamer Spitfire windshield, Walmart seat cushin
A thing I do to add penetration to the job is to "buzz" it with an engraver. Sometimes you can see the liquid being absorbed into the smaller joints. This is my answer to the ball-pein hammer I was given to peck away with as a kid. ---Greybeard