Forks - the Universe - and keeping it simple ......
Close
    
    
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 26
Like Tree115Likes

Thread: Forks - the Universe - and keeping it simple ......

  1. #1
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Ynys Môn
    Posts
    4,631

    Forks - the Universe - and keeping it simple ......

    I’ve been doing some reading regarding “fork improvements” — there are many threads, and much good information — but I’ve got to say, the more I read, the more my head spins ….

    “Fork emulators” — “Rider sag” — “Longer springs” — “Spacers” — “The broom stick method” (whatever that means) — the list of possibilities is endless

    Given that my ’98 is fortunate enough to have a set of “proper forks”, (eg the ones with drain holes at the bottom), it occurs to me that changing the oil should be a relatively simple affair, involving none of the above “complications” — get the old stuff out, and re-fill with the desired amount

    Sounds simple enough ….

    I know that following the manual on this is futile — and would ask the others on here on what personal experiences with viscosity and volume they have had (200lb rider — wet)

    Remember, this is the bike that goes into reverse when the perceived threat of a socket is presented, so for the bikes sake (and mine) — I just want to “KISS” this

    How much — and what weight ?

    (And if I could keep the “clack”, it would be appreciated) ……….
    (Warning - Forum may contain nuts) ...... Hidden Content

    TW200 - 1998 - Japanese import - 7000 miles on the clock - TW225 Special Edition 2007
    - Hidden Content

  2. #2
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Turtle Wrangling the Sierras
    Posts
    19,023
    Clack seems to disappear and rebound dampening appears if oil level is raised higher than ~130mm as measured from top of vertical, compressed, empty fork tube. I use 10w oil after first flushing out old aluma-sludge with cheap automatic transmission fluid ( ATF). A few more ml of oil will firm things up nicely for a 200 lb wet rider. I set mine at ~128mm but living in desert climates I am rarely wet.
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
    2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
    Hidden Content All Things Considered I’ld Rather Be Motorcycling

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Ynys Môn
    Posts
    4,631
    Now there you go again - with the “top vertical compressed” bit - and the “130mm”

    All I need to know, is how much to pour into the top, and what viscosity

    Assume I don’t have any spare broomsticks (just for a moment) —nor a laser range finder to poke down the top to find the 130mm sweet spot

    Not even an oil finding Hamster to report back to me (complete with little LED headlight) attached to a piece of string

    No gimmicks, no gadgets, no rodents — just me, an empty fork, a bottle of oil, (and a worried looking bike)

    And regarding the original Yamaha OEM “clack” — as long as it’s barely noticeable, I’m sure that’ll be fine. Although I have always regarded the “clack” as an indicator that the forks where working to within Yamaha specifications, my dentist disagrees. He seems to think it’s my teeth- the Doc says it’s likely to be my nuts — and frankly, it’s confusing, and costing me a fortune

    And what’s with this “rebound” bit — the TW forks rebound? — Why wasn’t I told of this ?

    I thought that was a myth ……
    (Warning - Forum may contain nuts) ...... Hidden Content

    TW200 - 1998 - Japanese import - 7000 miles on the clock - TW225 Special Edition 2007
    - Hidden Content

  4. Remove Advertisements
    TW200Forum.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    1,865
    Purple you desire a simple cc or oz measurement to accomplish what is variable goals. But that being said it would be great to have a table of oz’s or cc’s of fork oil to say be at 130 mm from the top for xxx-xxx lbs of rider. 128 mm, 125 mm etc. I don’t know if the capacity of the forks changed when they removed the plug and if this would work for all years.

    Ok who is manic enough and has drain holes in their forks to add and measure different levels to come up with this table? Any takers?

    If you have the bucks the best option seems like procycles kit of progressive springs and emulator with recommended oil based on your rider weight.

    There is an easy way to measure the depth of the oil just use a pencil mark a line on it near the top stick it into the hole of the fork up to the line and then measure the from wet spot to the line bingo your fork oil depth. Just make sure what ever you put into the forks to measure with is longer than the length you want to measure. Lol. Of course you have to remove the cap and springs and then compress the fork tubes. Supporting the front of the bike while removing the springs, etc. it is not as complicated as it sounds.
    ”Everything You Know is Wrong”

    ” How Can You Be in Two Places at Once When You Are Nowhere at All?”




    Twin 2014 TW200's made side by side on the assembly line, Moose rear racks, Protaper ATV high bars, DG oval pipes, kick starters, rejetted carbs, 130 main jets, 2 -3 -.020 shims on the needles and @ 2 1/2 turns on the pilot screw, #34 pilot jets, Acerbis hand guards, Shinko 241 front tires, modified Krator foot pegs, 14-55t sprockets, Ricochet skid plates and 90 degree fuel filters.

  6. #5
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Ynys Môn
    Posts
    4,631
    So – in summary – we have absolutely no idea on how much oil should go into a TW fork leg, other than to employ the “diving Hamster on a bit of string” method

    This pretty much confirms my own reading of the situation – but surely we have had to address this before ……
    (Warning - Forum may contain nuts) ...... Hidden Content

    TW200 - 1998 - Japanese import - 7000 miles on the clock - TW225 Special Edition 2007
    - Hidden Content

  7. #6
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Turtle Wrangling the Sierras
    Posts
    19,023
    This is not the first time someone has shouted down the well seeking a simple volumetric response to no avail. Sorry Purple, I knew your goal but was too embarrassed to admit to my not measuring by volume last time I forked up my TW. I lack a proper graduated cylinder but suppose I could always weigh before and after and then convert to milliliters next time. What is the specific gravity of Bel-Ray 10W fork oil anyways?
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
    2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
    Hidden Content All Things Considered I’ld Rather Be Motorcycling

  8. #7
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Skiing the slopes in Switzerland
    Posts
    17,585
    Pour a 8 ounce bottle of fork oil in each fork, test, drain excess from plugs if needed. ??
    Tweaker, buellzebub and gandolf like this.
    1st John 1:9
    If we confess our sins, He is faithful and just to forgive us our sins, and to cleanse us from all unrighteousness.

    John 3:16
    For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

    John 3:17
    For God sent not his Son into the world to condemn the world; but that the world through him might be saved.

    Hidden Content <<<Click here. Hidden Content Hidden Content

  9. #8
    Senior Member scotti158's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Groton, NY
    Posts
    2,663
    The service manual says 8.05 US ounces (or 238 ml) per fork.
    2013 Yamaha TW200

    1996 Yamaha TW200

    1995 Kawasaki KLR650

    2002 Yamaha RoadStar 1600 with sidecar

  10. #9
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hailey, ID
    Posts
    3,404
    Quote Originally Posted by Purple View Post
    All I need to know, is how much to pour into the top, and what viscosity
    ……
    Sorry Purple, it just doesn't work that way. If I told you to pour exactly 385 milliliters of 10 Wt. Fork oil into each fork to arrive at a measurement of 130 mm, I would be wrong. Since you have to remove the fork caps and drain to add new oil, you have already done 3/4 of the job. All you have to do now is take the spacer and springs out, close the drain bolt, add several ounces of ATF and exercise the forks a few dozen times. Lather, rinse, repeat. This step is important to get rid of the sludge at the bottom of the forks. It helps to drain into a glass container so you can see the ATF clear up after a couple of repetitions.
    Then compress the forks all the way, add about 8 oz. of fresh 10 wt. fork oil and using a 1/8 inch wood dowel available at most model stores or even hardware stores, make a mark from one end at 130 mm and put that mark at the top of the fork tube. Add oil until the bottom of the dowel gets wet, just a few cc at a time. Yes, this does take time but if you want to do it right you can't skip this step. The forks are quite sensitive to small increments of oil, and the level is the way to measure accurately.
    For your weight, the 130 mm level is very close to perfect. When it's there, put the springs and spacers back in, EXTEND the forks all the way and put the caps back on. It's worth doing right. I did this 11,000 miles ago and the forks have worked just fine ever since. It's now about time to change out the oil again, and I will use the exact same procedure again.
    Rocky
    2018 TW200
    2014 BMW R1200GS LC

  11. #10
    Member TW196's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Baltimore, Maryland
    Posts
    48
    I always wanted a no brainer oil volume to just dump into my forks. One day I was watching a video, from a Pennsylvania guy that goes by "Smightification" on YouTube, showing the installation of Procycle higher rate fork springs that called for 8oz. of oil per the installation instructions. And later reading through many fork oil threads I saw that lizardbreath suggested the use of ATF fluid as an acceptable alternative to 10w fork oil. So when I flushed mine that's what I used. 8oz. of mercon/dextron tranny fluid in each tube has worked fantastically for me on road and off. 10w fork oil of any brand would be fine but the viscosity of the mercon/dextron is excellent and it's cheap. I weigh 200lbs. for reference.
    Last edited by TW196; 11-05-2017 at 07:10 PM.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Sponosred Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. Batteries - life, the Universe, and everything ......
    By Purple in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 08-26-2017, 09:48 AM
  2. Fibromyalgia and Keeping My TW 200
    By RikR in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 06-02-2017, 06:48 PM
  3. keeping the TW but thinking of another bike,,,but which one?
    By rastaman in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 05-25-2017, 03:18 PM
  4. keeping your TW clean ?
    By mtn_goat in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 03-18-2015, 06:16 PM
  5. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-03-2012, 12:23 PM