Careburetor screws replacement
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Thread: Careburetor screws replacement

  1. #1
    Senior Member jannaruto's Avatar
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    Careburetor screws replacement

    Hey guys, I am opening another thread to now mix stuffs
    Probablt this week or next one I will open my carb to rejet it
    I am reading that all the screws are easily stripped right?
    So in case I would like to exchange them with inoxidable steel ones (I already replaced all the screws of the bike and engine with these ones) which size I should purchase?

    I would like if possible a list with quantity, I have a keihin carby
    Is possible like this?
    x3 m4 12mm
    x2 m4 20mm

    Something like this, so I can go and purchase all of them and replace
    Also which size are the screws of the mainfolds near the carby? (the two rubber things) I want to change the screws that close both clamps

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    (Warning - Forum may contain nuts) ...... Hidden Content

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  3. #3
    Senior Member jannaruto's Avatar
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    Dear Purple remind mine is not a Mikuni but is a Keihin, ALL the screws necessary to reach the Jets are just those 4, so changing those 4 I will be ok?
    Any chance of replacing all the other ones for improved "reliability" for future modifications?

    The mainfolds are the same M4?

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    I think over-torqueing fasteners is more responsible for reported thread stripping than galvanic corrosion between steel fasteners and aluminum engine and carburetor components. If concerned one can always use anti-sieze compounds and judicious torque applications when replacing fasteners.
    grewen likes this.
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  6. #5
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    “Fits carb float bowls on most Mikuni & Keihan carbs”

    In other words — it’ll fit pretty much anything — but I only posted that link to show you the “type” of screw/bolt that you will be looking for, and how easy they are to find

    But as Fred so eloquently points out, it’s all about how tight you put them back — and whether or not you use copper slip — and how you put that copper slip on — and how much — and how different metals interact — and which kind of screwdriver you use …..

    But first — you need to find those screws — and the best way is to take an old one into a shop that sells that sort of thing, and see if they sell one that is the kind you’re looking for ……

    I have “some experience” of the older generation of Italian motorcycles, and while they are great bikes, the screws are generally “one time use”. Replacing them with steel and you need to take care, because the alloy they are greeting is still as soft as butter — and that’s what Fred is getting at — take care not to over-tighten
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  7. #6
    Senior Member jannaruto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple View Post
    “Fits carb float bowls on most Mikuni & Keihan carbs”

    In other words – it’ll fit pretty much anything – but I only posted that link to show you the “type” of screw/bolt that you will be looking for, and how easy they are to find

    But as Fred so eloquently points out, it’s all about how tight you put them back – and whether or not you use copper slip – and how you put that copper slip on – and how much – and how different metals interact – and which kind of screwdriver you use …..

    But first – you need to find those screws – and the best way is to take an old one into a shop that sells that sort of thing, and see if they sell one that is the kind you’re looking for ……

    I have “some experience” of the older generation of Italian motorcycles, and while they are great bikes, the screws are generally “one time use”. Replacing them with steel and you need to take care, because the alloy they are greeting is still as soft as butter – and that’s what Fred is getting at – take care not to over-tighten
    I think I can easily find those screws M4x12

    For tightening them etc, Its not that the matter I guess, its just that I am replacing all the screws on my TW, as said I already replaced all the engine ones and the body, even the rear drum brake one (the screw at the rear of the drum brake that keep in place the pivot point)
    So why not changing those too with better ones that even after many mount/dismount will be always working

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