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Thread: Clutch Adjustment

  1. #1
    Senior Member Tjmay's Avatar
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    Clutch Adjustment

    Couldn't find this addressed anywhere.

    I noticed that the spring that returns the clutch was not properly hooked to the clutch actuator so I reattached it properly.

    When I tried to adjust the clutch lever freeplay, I noticed something that confused me.

    With the proper freeplay at the lever, when releasing the clutch lever, the clutch actuator doesn't return all the way to its stop. There's maybe 1/8" left that I can manually move to its stop with my finger. This little amount makes the proper lever freeplay incorrect when its pushed back.

    Is this normal? if not, what to do?

    Maybe the motion and vibration of the engine would complete the actuator travel to, its stop?
    Badgerflorida likes this.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Badgerflorida's Avatar
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    Can’t answer the free play question but I’ve read multiple instances of improperly installed clutch springs even on brand new bikes. Cheers
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  3. #3
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    The incorrectly attached spring you found is a common fault – sometimes from the factory – sometimes from a local mech being lazy about putting it back together

    Having re-attached the spring in its correct position, you then need to take up the slack using the screw/bolt whatsit next to that spring – final adjustment is on the handlebar lever

    The screw/bolt thing is what keeps the cable under tension back and forth – while the handle bar adjuster is there just to take up the slack

    Allow at least one mil of slack – it’ll prevent clutch slip while riding

    The amount you have to play with that actually affects the clutch biting at the lever end is pretty minimal, but I’ve always found it fine – especially with the way the TW is geared …..
    Badgerflorida likes this.
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  5. #4
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    How much do you want to get into it? There are 3 places to adjust the clutch. Up by the handle, midway down the cable, and the 3rd spot, under the right side cover.

    If the clutch doesn't slip while under full power in high gear and it fully releases (once the engine is warmed up) so you can easily shift gears and find neutral then be done with it. A little extra free play won't hurt anything.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  6. #5
    Senior Member Tjmay's Avatar
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    All great responses but I'm not sure you addressed my concern. And maybe this will be resolved when the engine and oil is warm but...

    When the clutch lever is fully released and there is slack in the cable, the clutch actuator on top of the crankcase, with the spring in the proper position, still has about an 1/8" left to move but doesn't. It can be pushed by hand back the 1/8" but won't travel that last eighth inch by itself.

  7. #6
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    OK - how old is your bike - and how many miles ?
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  8. #7
    Senior Member Tjmay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple View Post
    OK - how old is your bike - and how many miles ?
    Its a 2013 with less than 100 miles.

    It sat for several years after the original owner laid it down.

  9. #8
    Senior Member RockyTFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjmay View Post
    All great responses but I'm not sure you addressed my concern...
    This amount of slack and freeplay is perfectly normal. Just be sure the lever isn't binding from a tiny bit too much torque on the shaft bolt and it will rattle back into place. It's easy to play with the adjuster on the lever so it feels just like you want it to.....an eighth turn may be all you need. If you take out all the slack the friction zone may be too close to the end. I like about 3/4 inch before I get into the friction zone....(which as we all know is pretty thin on a TW!)
    goldenhtr likes this.
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  10. #9
    Senior Member DougDotyTW200's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjmay View Post
    Its a 2013 with less than 100 miles.

    It sat for several years after the original owner laid it down.
    I understand what you are saying, I will check my 16 with 450 miles and advise.

    EDIT, MINE IS THE SAME. When everything is adjusted as it should be, and you have the slight free play up in the handle, the lever on the crankcase is a neutral position but not a precise neutral position there is a bit of room to move when relaxed and not under pull. if you reach in there with fingers on opposing hands you can move it back and fourth a slight amount and the integral spring is not strong enough to force it all the way in the clockwise direction against the cable drag but it is fine. No issue there.
    Last edited by DougDotyTW200; 02-09-2018 at 04:04 PM.
    2016, stock'ish and a 2003 Starting on a 225 or bigger 6 speed build as a spare for now and install later when done and ready on this bike.

  11. #10
    Senior Member Tjmay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougDotyTW200 View Post
    I understand what you are saying, I will check my 16 with 450 miles and advise.

    EDIT, MINE IS THE SAME. When everything is adjusted as it should be, and you have the slight free play up in the handle, the lever on the crankcase is a neutral position but not a precise neutral position there is a bit of room to move when relaxed and not under pull. if you reach in there with fingers on opposing hands you can move it back and fourth a slight amount and the integral spring is not strong enough to force it all the way in the clockwise direction against the cable drag but it is fine. No issue there.
    You did Get it!

    Thanks for the confirmation. I thoughjt it felt right and performed ok but, well, inquiring minds want to know.
    DougDotyTW200 likes this.

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