Rejet help
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Thread: Rejet help

  1. #1
    Member brandonjohnson33's Avatar
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    Rejet help

    I went ahead and rejetted my 2015. I put the pro cycle jet kit in, replacing both jets, needle and put two washers in. 130 main and the screw 2.25 out. It would hesitate when I pulled the throttle fast at idle but not die, so I set the screw to 2.5 out. That helped. I still have soot deposit in exhaust and it feels like at low speeds it barely surges or something. Not sure what to do next. I can cruise at 60 mph easy. Just want to make sure I don’t need to adjust something slightly.

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    Member brandonjohnson33's Avatar
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    Any suggestions?
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    Senior Member Leisure Time Larry's Avatar
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    Hi Brandon,

    What elevation are you at?

    Why did you want to rejet in the first place?

    It is kind of hard to say at this point because you went in and made all of those changes at once. It is generally recommended to do one change at a time, so you can evaluate the effects of the change and easily reverse it. Also, many people have gone in to rejet or clean and then not gotten all of the little parts or springs put back in right. Yup, I've done it. Let's get your answers, and then we'll work from there.
    - Leisure Time Larry -
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  5. #4
    Member brandonjohnson33's Avatar
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    2200 ft
    It was lean to begin with which I addressed with the screw to start.
    I was looking to get all I could out of the bike and based on others experience went for it
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  6. #5
    Senior Member Leisure Time Larry's Avatar
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    What other jets were in the kit? Are those shims 0.01" thick?

    I'm at sea level, and I like the 128 main in my bike. It was an improvement over my stock 125 main. I observed no further improvement when trying the 130 main, and thought it might have even been too rich. Above 4200 feet or so, even the 128 is noticeably too rich for me. I think you may have over corrected, and are now too rich as well.

    Generally speaking, there is not much to "get out" of the bike. There was a slight "butt-dyno" increase with carb adjustments, but nothing life changing. The jetting is too rich from the factory for most, and dialing it in yields easier starts and a reduction in decal popping, etc.

    For 2200 feet, I would recommend the 128 or 126 main jet, stock 31 pilot jet, the 2 needle shims are probably fine, and the pilot screw at 2 turns out...if you want to try them all at the same time. Or, do them one at a time, noting if they hurt or help, so you can keep moving forward. Either way, report back.

    Good luck!
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    Member brandonjohnson33's Avatar
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    It had a 126 main jet in it. I was wondering if I should have left the original pilot jet in.
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  8. #7
    Senior Member Leisure Time Larry's Avatar
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    A lot of times, just opening that screw up a bit makes all of the difference. If you put the 34 pilot in, just try turning down the screw further.

    The main jet is mainly going to affect WOT running, the needle shims are generally going to affect mid-range throttle and some acceleration, and the pilot jet and screw are mainly going to affect idle to 1/4 throttle performance. I say "mainly" because they are not separate throughout the range. The pilot circuit is always going to be introducing fuel, for instance.

    Here is a fantastic animation video of what is going on and how our CV carbs work...

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    Member brandonjohnson33's Avatar
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    I don’t have a 128 main jet so I took the 34 pilot jet out and put the 31 back in. Set the screw to 2 and took it out 20 miles. Much smoother all the way through. No hesitation. Now just a little black dust in the dg pipe.i can still cruise 60+ easy. Thanks a bunch. I learned a lot.
    littletommy and admiral like this.

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