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  1. #1
    Senior Member TW_in_BC's Avatar
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    While reading the threads about sprocket options and selections, I had a thought. Is there any compelling reason as to WHY the rear axle nut must go on the RIGHT HAND side of the bike?

    When I recently changed my rear sprocket, I was unsure whether the chain would be long enough to accommodate a larger sprocket, so I only installed 3 bolts - and would install the remaining three if it worked - but I was thinking that IF the axle-nut was on the LEFT hand side, I could withdraw it partially, remove (or replace) the sprocket and then slide the axle back in without having to remove the entire wheel.



    So...can it be done? Can the axle-nut go on the right side instead of the left? I can't see any reason why not!
    2008 TW200
    Southwest corner of BC Canada

    YouTube channel: Hidden Content

  2. #2
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    It makes a difference on the front axle. The nut will loosen. Don't know about the back.




  3. #3
    Senior Member srs713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
    It makes a difference on the front axle. The nut will loosen. Don't know about the back.


    Whaaat?????



    The axles don't turn. They are just big f##### bolts holding everything in line & together. How can the direction of the head/nut make any difference front or rear???????
    Stephen S.

    '07 TW200:

    15/50 sprockets, O-ring chain, D2Moto foot pegs

    tweaked carb (127.5 jet, 0.019 needle shim, idle screw @2.25),

    Rubbermaid "Action Packer" on homemade brackets

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  5. #4
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by srs713 View Post


    Whaaat?????



    The axles don't turn. They are just big f##### bolts holding everything in line & together. How can the direction of the head/nut make any difference front or rear???????


    Beats me, but it does.




  6. #5
    Senior Member TW_in_BC's Avatar
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    I thought about the "loosening" aspect...my 1969 VW Beetle had a left-hand thread on the left-front wheel bearing. But nowadays, even RV's have standard threads on ALL wheels, they simply add a castellated nut and cotter pin to keep the forward motion of the wheel from loosening the bearing nut.

    I have been thinking about changing out the OEM jam nut on the rear axle, for a castellated nut and cotter pin. The axle shaft is already drilled...and if I mount it "backwards" (with the nut on the LEFT side instead of the RIGHT), I'll be able to do what I suggested above.
    2008 TW200
    Southwest corner of BC Canada

    YouTube channel: Hidden Content

  7. #6
    Member bluedevilfootballman's Avatar
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    my axle nut on my 2000 is a castle type nut with a cotter pin. i personally wouldn't be afraid to flip it as long as ur's has a castle nut.

  8. #7
    Senior Member srs713's Avatar
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    If you have access to a drill press the holes can be easily added to the axle to switch to a castle nut.



    Buy the nut, measure how far from the end the holes need to be & if ya don't have a drill press, take the axle to a local machine shop & have them drill the two holes. Gotta be less than a $20 bill to do that at any shop.



    Stephen S.

    '07 TW200:

    15/50 sprockets, O-ring chain, D2Moto foot pegs

    tweaked carb (127.5 jet, 0.019 needle shim, idle screw @2.25),

    Rubbermaid "Action Packer" on homemade brackets

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