Thanks all for the advice. I was really happy to see the replacement ball joints for my Tacoma came with zerk fittings.
I agree about flexible nozzle being a necessity.
Last edited by Badgerflorida; 04-25-2018 at 06:01 AM.
01 street 203/204
96 hybrid Shinko 241/428
89 restored SOLD
Last edited by RockyTFS; 04-25-2018 at 07:11 AM.
2014 BMW R1200GS LC
Are there really any inferior grease cartridge brands whose grease actually breaks down and washes away?
2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
Hidden Content All Things Considered I’ld Rather Be Motorcycling
I personally prefer the M3A1 grease gun for simplicity and ease of use. I had one for two and a half years back in the sixties. My uncle loaned it to me then paid me to use it.
I use the red sticky stuff myself, but the guys in our shop agree with this (we have hundred of machines, heavy equipment etc.. mining..):
Grease quality is not as important as how often you grease (unless it's a show piece!). The only time they will use the high end stuff is when the location of the grease point is hard to get to and/or in a place that may be missed more often than not (or you are very lazy!).
For regular maintenance, regular market grease does well.
PS. Keep in mind greasing "pushes water out!" of the location your greasing. Even with the best grease, when the location is under water it gets water pushed into it by the water pressure. As an example just try to push a cup under water and imagine that pressure pushing water in your swing arm bushing/bearing etc.. You need to push that water back out with new grease.. Take it from someone who has been riding swamps for years. Grease more if you run it! If it's a garage queen, pamper it with gold flake grease (yep I saw that on a show truck!) LOL
Husqvarna TE300i Fuel Injected 2-Stroke 2019
Yamaha XT225 - 1999 Serow
Yamaha TW200Z - 2010
Yamaha BW200 Electric Start! - 1986
Yamaha TTR225R - 2003
Husqvarna 701 Enduro - 2017
Kawasaki Prairie 650 - 2002
First place it has worked better for me. On my outboard itself. I lube the trim bracket with it and unlike the stuff Merc recommends and sells it does not get pushed out of the bracket by pressure like the merc stuff does, it simply stays put and it does not wash away quickly
Second place is the trailer and its a long story. I used to fish a lot of bass tournaments all over the country east of the Mississippi and as such i have towed a lot of miles, as in hundreds of thousands of miles. I firmly believe that the vast majority of bearing problems on trailers are caused by lack of maintenance. As i said i have towed a lot of miles over the years and in that time i have had only one bearing failure. That failure was not caused by a lubrication or a maintenance issue, it was caused by crappy Chinese made parts that blew apart on an almost new boat trailer( my father was a metallurgist and he showed me on the other side where the heat treating was poorly done , same went for the brand new ones that came with the replacement hub/disc i needed to buy). When this happened i was very far away from home and i ended up fixing the bearing in the parking lot of a tiny Napa store that just so happened to be right off the exit of the freeway where i had the failure. It was a good thing that store was there because i needed parts, the boat dealer gave me the wrong bearings for my brand new trailer and without the right parts i was screwed. They had the needed parts and i also needed grease since one of my club buddies apparently borrowed my grease gun from my truck and emptied it. The only grease they had on the shelf that would fit my mini gun that i keep in my road kit was the Lucas red and tacky. I had never used it in a wheel bearing before but when you are 300+ miles from home you go with what they have. So i get the hub back together but i had two problems, the hub was damaged to the point that i could not get a seal to stay nor would a cap fit on it. I figured i may lose the grease but if i stop every 15 or 20 miles and refill i should be fine so long as i don't run it dry. I made it the entire 300+ miles home without having to put another pump of grease into the spindle. At one point I went 100 miles without even bothering to check it. I know for a fact that the "marine" grease i used to run would not have done that. Over the years i have lost a bearing cap or two, they do fall off from time to time and with normal "marine" grease you end up with grease slung everywhere when a cap falls off an if left unattended a smoked bearing, with the Lucas the couple times i have lost one i have no mess anywhere and the grease stays in the hub. That lost bearing incident and trip home sold me on using the Lucas for my trailer, i use the same on my enclosed bike trailer too.
The other place i feel on the bearings its better is corrosion. I know "marine" grease has anti corrosion stuff in it too but over the years i have seen many pitted bearings and races when i pull them apart for my annual repack and reseal. Using the Lucas i have not seen any, the set of bearings in my current trailer are a decade old and still look perfect with close to 100k miles on them.
I don't have any evidence to back this up but i feel the bearings run cooler too, I always give my hubs the grab test any time i stop just to feel for any potential issue that may be brewing and with the lucas they are barely warm after along tow vs the distinctly warm that they used to be.
You mileage may vary but for me that Lucas stuff has worked very well for my applications including my TW. The swingarm and steering head both have that stuff in it.
Last edited by jb882; 04-25-2018 at 08:21 AM.
Pair of 2006 TW's modded to the hilt and a Ducati Multistrada.
Thank you for the response.
I be headed to auto zone to pick up the same grease then.
If a bike is plated, it's suppose to be ridden, not hauled on a trailer.
2002 DR650SE, 2001 TW200
Riding a TW is like riding a piece of freedom Hidden Content
I don't want to go where the road takes me. I want to go where it does not.