Carb float bowl screws
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Thread: Carb float bowl screws

  1. #1
    Senior Member jbfla's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
    FL. GA, NC
    As Qwerty described them, "those %^&^$ float bowl screws", are a pain to remove, and the phillips heads are easily stripped.

    The stock screws are not standard Phillips screws, they are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) Phillips screws, and are easily stripped with a standard Phillips screw driver

    (thanks to Peruano for this info).

    If you are going to work on your carb, it would be a good idea to replace them with socket head screws.

    On 2001 and newer TW carbs, the stock screws are M4 x 14mm, which I couldn't find at Home Depot, but they had M4 x 16mm. I added 4mm lock washers to take up the extra couple of threads.

    At the same time I replaced the two screws on the top of the carb, M5 x 15mm, although I have not had any problem with them stripping.

    For about $3.00 US, you can save yourself a lot of grief when working on your carb.

    2018 Triumph Street Twin..............2016 CB500F
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  2. #2
    Senior Member uktw125's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Devon, England.
    Another tip for removing stubbon screws is to use a small dab of course valve gringing paste on the tip of your screwdriver.

    It really helps stop the screwdriver camming out of the head.

  3. #3
    Junior Member JaRo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    East Texas
    I did the same thing with the screws on my 95 a few months ago.

    M4 - .70 x 12 with lock washers from Lowes. They came in a plastic package like those above except they were a HILLMAN brand.

    They were slightly longer than the screws that came out.

    Moabman likes this.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Turtle Chaser's Avatar
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    Aug 2010
    Fieldbrook Valley CA northcoast
    Thank you guys so much. I was going to start a post asking that very question!
    GOD BLESS & RIDE SAFE, TC____________ BC rides: Honda SL100, Honda TL125, Penton125 ISDT, KTM400 ISDT

    now riding '06 TW w/ Jimbo Window, Acerbis bushbusters, ProTaper bars w/risers, Pro Grip 737's, Osram Rally headlamp w/modulator, turn signal beeper, Kenda k270 4.00 x 18,
    triple horns w/relay, big pegs, folding shifter, tuned carb w/drilled slide, 15/50 w/D.I.D. O-ring, RedLine 20w/50, Sterns w/extra padding, extra LED brake light, xt225 brake arm, rear Cycle Racks w/hacked milk crate. Hidden Content

  6. #5
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
    NW Tennessee
    Don't worry if the screws you find are a coule mm longer than stock, there is nothing in the way.

  7. #6
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    San Jose, CA
    The manual says you can remove the float bowl without removing the carb first. I couldn't do it using the Phillip head screws so I changed to the allen head screws. Now I can remove it but it is toss up whether or not to remove the carb first is the easier way. Anyway, this is what I did.

    Take a 3mm wrench with the ball on the end and break off the elbow. Better to grind it off but if you choose to break it make sure your eyes are protected. I had a piece go flying.

    I found a small grinding wheel and epoxied it on the wrench. It gives leverage and friction. I think you could use a lot of different things but this is what I had.

    Then I tried the new home altered wrench on the right side screws of the carb. These are the most difficult and I can easily remove them.

    I added the little grinding wheel wrench to the tool kit I carry on the bike. Hopefully I will never have to find out how it works in the field.

    DrTerrible likes this.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

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