Just bought my 2nd TW200 and the piston is damaged
Close
    
    
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
  1. #1
    Junior Member ishootstuff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    8
    Hello all. I'm a long time reader, first time poster. My wife and I are avid riders on both dirt and pavement. For the dirt, she rides the TW200 and I ride a CRF230F. I saw a 1991 TW on craigslist for cheap and decided I buy it, steal the tires for my wife and resell it. It needed cosmetic work, so I figured I'd pretty it up and maybe make a profit. Well... I don't think that's going to happen. The clatter I thought was cam chain or valves is something more. I'd like some opinions on whether or not I need to tear it down further after I replace the piston and rings - and maybe the cylinder. It kind of sounded like it had a rod knock, but the rod and wristpin feel solid. That's a chunk missing from above the top ring.



    __________________________________

    "Naturally aspirated engines suck"

    __________________________________



    2 Wheels:

    1991 Yamaha TW200

    1987 Yamaha TW200

    1982 Honda CX500 Turbo

    1982 Honda CB900 Custom

    1987 Honda CBR600F1 Hurricane

    1986 Honda XL600

    2005 Honda CRF230F

    2007 Yamaha TTR125LE



    4 Wheels:

    1995 Lexus SC300 Turbo

    1999 V10 Swapped Ford F150

    1993 Lexus SC400

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bullspit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Southern Michigan
    Posts
    269
    That will buff right out.

  3. #3
    Senior Member PalmStateCrawler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Cayce, SC
    Posts
    3,109
    If the rod is tight you'll be alright. It may have been in need of new rings for a looooong time to cause that chatter. That is a strange place to have a chunk missing from. Check the cylinder and make sure the bore is even all the way up. If it's good, you could probably get away with honing and replacing the piston and rings with the same size. If not, it's time for an over-bore. Shouldn't cost too much to have it bored out. How many miles are on the bike?
    '13 690 Enduro R too many frickin farkles...
    '07 KLX250 farkled (wife's bike)
    '86 BW80 farkled to size
    '10 TW200 you will be missed

  4. Remove Advertisements
    TW200Forum.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Junior Member ishootstuff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Kwizard
    Come on now; you already know that answer. Bite the bullet and get after it. You'll be the better for it. Sorry about your motor.


    OK, 1 vote for tear it down!



    I went out to remove the piston and noticed the wristpin had actually migrated over the circlip and was pretty much welded to the piston. I think that's the cause of the noise. I don't feel any slack on the big end of the rod and after I hammered the wristpin out, the small end of the rod looks OK. I think I'm going to wing it. I assume it's supposed to be a floating wristpin - haven't looked in the manual yet.
    __________________________________

    "Naturally aspirated engines suck"

    __________________________________



    2 Wheels:

    1991 Yamaha TW200

    1987 Yamaha TW200

    1982 Honda CX500 Turbo

    1982 Honda CB900 Custom

    1987 Honda CBR600F1 Hurricane

    1986 Honda XL600

    2005 Honda CRF230F

    2007 Yamaha TTR125LE



    4 Wheels:

    1995 Lexus SC300 Turbo

    1999 V10 Swapped Ford F150

    1993 Lexus SC400

  6. #5
    Junior Member ishootstuff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by PalmStateCrawler View Post
    If the rod is tight you'll be alright. It may have been in need of new rings for a looooong time to cause that chatter. That is a strange place to have a chunk missing from. Check the cylinder and make sure the bore is even all the way up. If it's good, you could probably get away with honing and replacing the piston and rings with the same size. If not, it's time for an over-bore. Shouldn't cost too much to have it bored out. How many miles are on the bike?


    Odo shows 8,000 or so. I like your opinion The cylinder still has the crosshatch pattern except a little at the bottom that will hone out. It WILL hone out...
    __________________________________

    "Naturally aspirated engines suck"

    __________________________________



    2 Wheels:

    1991 Yamaha TW200

    1987 Yamaha TW200

    1982 Honda CX500 Turbo

    1982 Honda CB900 Custom

    1987 Honda CBR600F1 Hurricane

    1986 Honda XL600

    2005 Honda CRF230F

    2007 Yamaha TTR125LE



    4 Wheels:

    1995 Lexus SC300 Turbo

    1999 V10 Swapped Ford F150

    1993 Lexus SC400

  7. #6
    Senior Member joeband's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    norcal nutjob
    Posts
    3,313
    must be in the air... i have the same dilemma.

    congrats!



    https://tw200forum.com/index.php?/top...809#entry62809
    1994 TW226- 6spd. 10w-40 synthetic, XTHidden Content , XT225 stainless header, +2" Joemama swingarm, lizrd cooler, +20% fork springs, +25% rear spring, 2001 speedo w/ trip odo, pro taper atv bars, bark busters, shinko 241 front tire, front fender w/ mr bracket bracket, Hidden Content , o-ring chain, ricochet skid plate, Hidden Content , XT225 rear brake cam lever, folding-tip shifter, cycle rack, kolpin 1.5 aux tank & 1450 pelican case. Hidden Content or Hidden Content

    Hidden Content

  8. #7
    Junior Member ishootstuff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by joe band View Post
    must be in the air... i have the same dilemma.

    congrats!



    https://tw200forum.com/index.php?/top...809#entry62809


    That is a nice find!



    So the parts are not terribly expensive. I only have $700 into the bike so far and it WAS running. Including the seat cover and the engine repair I'll be into it for $850. I'm OK with that.



    __________________________________

    "Naturally aspirated engines suck"

    __________________________________



    2 Wheels:

    1991 Yamaha TW200

    1987 Yamaha TW200

    1982 Honda CX500 Turbo

    1982 Honda CB900 Custom

    1987 Honda CBR600F1 Hurricane

    1986 Honda XL600

    2005 Honda CRF230F

    2007 Yamaha TTR125LE



    4 Wheels:

    1995 Lexus SC300 Turbo

    1999 V10 Swapped Ford F150

    1993 Lexus SC400

  9. #8
    Junior Member ishootstuff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    8
    If anyone cares, I put the piston and rings in and she runs great. I did some cosmetic work and some other repairs, so she'll make a nice bike for someone.















    __________________________________

    "Naturally aspirated engines suck"

    __________________________________



    2 Wheels:

    1991 Yamaha TW200

    1987 Yamaha TW200

    1982 Honda CX500 Turbo

    1982 Honda CB900 Custom

    1987 Honda CBR600F1 Hurricane

    1986 Honda XL600

    2005 Honda CRF230F

    2007 Yamaha TTR125LE



    4 Wheels:

    1995 Lexus SC300 Turbo

    1999 V10 Swapped Ford F150

    1993 Lexus SC400

  10. #9
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Near Narrows Bridges, WA State
    Posts
    1,619
    Make sure that oil pump is working and the bike has the correct oil filter. Break her in like she was new again. I wish I could direct you on which break in style to use.



    Lots of opinions out there (almost like an oil thread)



    http://tw200forum.co...6/ShowPost.aspx



    http://tw200forum.co...0/ShowPost.aspx



    http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm



    Turbo break in for older bikes 1960-1980's (I used this style on my 70's xl175)



    Don't worry about honing the cylinder as it's entirely unnecessary and will in fact hinder the bedding in of the new rings.



    Assemble the cylinder & piston dry then button it all up, ensure the timing is dead nutz.



    Change the oil (duh) and fire it up, the _instant_ it starts, run the engine up to your normal maximum cruising speed, RPM's_do_not_ vary the engine speed for one full minute, you _MUST_ use a watch with sweep second hand as time will slow down on you, this will be the longest 60 seconds of your life, trust me.



    After 60 seconds, shut it off and allow to cool fully (hours) before re-starting and setting idle adjustment as needed.



    That's it! you're done and not only no more smoke but higher compression too. enjoy.



    Oh, yes, here's the highly technical factory taught way to test for bad piston: Drag your fingernail around the sides, near the wrist pin and if the lines there catch like the grooves on a phonograph record would, it's junk.







    http://www.dansmc.com break in style

    On one hand, if you run the bike too easy, you run the risk of the cylinder walls glazing over and then, maybe, never seating properly. On the other hand, if you run the bike too hard, you run the risk of engine seizure. I suspect, that even if you do glaze the cylinder walls over, if your run the engine hard enough and long enough, the rings will seat. However, this may take a thousand miles, or more, to do.



    So what's a biker to do ? Well, a compromise is in order. This is what I do with a freshly rebuilt engine. It will work on new engines too. On a straight, deserted road, I put the bike in second or third gear and accelerate with wide open throttle to about one or two thousand RPM BELOW red line. I then shut the throttle and coast down, in gear, to two thousand RPM or so. I then do it again. I do this about ten times. Then I ride around for a while at an easy pace. I do this several times, if possible. This seats the rings without overheating the engine.



    I would continue to do this during the entire break-in period. If you are doing any freeway riding. That is, running long periods of time at a steady throttle setting. I would also add this. Shut the throttle off and then on again, very quickly, every three or four miles. This tends to draw more oil up on the bottom of the piston, lubing and cooling it. On a freshly rebuilt engine, I like to change the oil and filter at about two hundred miles and then every thousand miles thereafter. On a totally new engine, I change the oil and filter at one hundred fifty miles, three hundred miles, six hundred miles and twelve hundred miles. After that, change the oil and filter every one thousand miles.


  11. #10
    Junior Member ishootstuff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    Make sure that oil pump is working and the bike has the correct oil filter.


    Already done. Oil pours out of that port on top of the head and it has the same filter my other TW has, so I assume its right.
    __________________________________

    "Naturally aspirated engines suck"

    __________________________________



    2 Wheels:

    1991 Yamaha TW200

    1987 Yamaha TW200

    1982 Honda CX500 Turbo

    1982 Honda CB900 Custom

    1987 Honda CBR600F1 Hurricane

    1986 Honda XL600

    2005 Honda CRF230F

    2007 Yamaha TTR125LE



    4 Wheels:

    1995 Lexus SC300 Turbo

    1999 V10 Swapped Ford F150

    1993 Lexus SC400

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Sponosred Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. Why I bought the TW200
    By scotti158 in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 05-27-2013, 07:58 PM
  2. bought a 1987 Yamaha tw 200 bought need helppp!!
    By Guelox in forum Technical Help
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-21-2012, 02:47 AM
  3. God help us...I just bought my 1st TW200
    By rickrobards in forum Trails, Off-road, and Adventure Riding
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-12-2012, 01:02 PM
  4. Posh Faith TW200 piston
    By Mame Shiba in forum Performance and Customization
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 12-29-2010, 06:58 PM
  5. ttr225 piston in a tw200 cylinder
    By racerx in forum Performance and Customization
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-18-2010, 03:22 PM

Search tags for this page

crf230f cylinder hone
,
damaged piston
,
how does my tw200 engine work
,
tw200 adjusting cam chain
,
tw200 engine replacement pistons
,

tw200 piston

,
tw200 piston price
,

tw200 wrist pin noise

,
weld foot pegs crf230f
,

xl600 clattering after rebuild

,

yamaha tw200 oil cooler kit

,
yamaha tw200 piston replacement
Click on a term to search for related topics.