Clutch basket rivets loose?
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  1. #1
    Senior Member tw200sgp's Avatar
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    My bike is in with JJ (recommended bike builder in Sgp - PM me for more info). I asked him - amoungst other things - to put a new set of clutch disks in. He showed me the clutch basket today - there is slop between the alloy basket and steel drive gear/back plate. The two are held together with four rivets - I think the rivets are 'wearing' under my continual clutch abuse. He's recommending a new clutch basket but I'd rather just have the basket/steel gear re-riveted. Has anyone done this before?

  2. #2
    Senior Member ronnydog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tw200sgp View Post
    My bike is in with JJ (recommended bike builder in Sgp - PM me for more info). I asked him - amoungst other things - to put a new set of clutch disks in. He showed me the clutch basket today - there is slop between the alloy basket and steel drive gear/back plate. The two are held together with four rivets - I think the rivets are 'wearing' under my continual clutch abuse. He's recommending a new clutch basket but I'd rather just have the basket/steel gear re-riveted. Has anyone done this before?






    Take a hammer and pound the rivets back to flush.



    Ronnydog

  3. #3
    Senior Member mrbracket's Avatar
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    Hummm, mine bike has a weird surge when I take off and shift. I've had bikes in the past that the clutch discs have worn grooves into the clutch basket and caused that sort of feeling. I assumed that's what was going on with mine. But, perhaps mine has loose rivets like yours??? I need to pull it apart and find out... Thanks for posting!



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  5. #4
    Senior Member tw200sgp's Avatar
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    We hammered in the rivets... the problem is the al. basket holes are a bit rounded out. Never mind (no replacement in stock anyways).

    I changed my headlight today to a Philips 12342PRC1 premium vision H4 ($3) - supposedly +30% over stock (not DOT approved). It's better than stock but probably not as good as the Sylvania some talk about... man those headlight wires are a small gauge! They can't be bigger than 1.0 mm2 which is 6amps max in my book.



    I also changed the burned out speedo bulb (T5W wedge) to an LED one - the cheapest white one the auto store had. Now I have a beautiful light green speedo display at night instead of the dull yellow one. I don't know why it's pale green (presumably filtered by the plastic) but it's pretty and I'm happy saving 2W or whatever it is.

  6. #5
    Senior Member mrbracket's Avatar
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    Did you take any pics while messing with your clutch basket? I'm thinking my bike has the same issue. Did hammering the rivets really tighten up the assembly?



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  7. #6
    Senior Member mrbracket's Avatar
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    tw200sgp or Ronnydog, I took my clutch apart and found slop in my clutch basket as well. I tried hammering the rivets and it did eliminate the rotational slop, but there is still some slop that allows the primary driven gear to move back and forth. Is the whole assembly intended to be solid with no movement, or is there supposed to be some slop to allow things to mesh? The gear is sandwiched in between the clutch basket and a sheet metal backing plate, is this to allow a little movement? Any experience in this area??



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  8. #7
    Senior Member ronnydog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbracket View Post
    tw200sgp or Ronnydog, I took my clutch apart and found slop in my clutch basket as well. I tried hammering the rivets and it did eliminate the rotational slop, but there is still some slop that allows the primary driven gear to move back and forth. Is the whole assembly intended to be solid with no movement, or is there supposed to be some slop to allow things to mesh? The gear is sandwiched in between the clutch basket and a sheet metal backing plate, is this to allow a little movement? Any experience in this area??


    There is a little play in them but the rivets should be tight. When you bolt it back in the play will be gone.



    Ronnydog

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