Carburetor rear boot??? Tricks?
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Thread: Carburetor rear boot??? Tricks?

  1. #1
    Junior Member aaronloffler's Avatar
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    Carburetor rear boot??? Tricks?

    Got the carburetors on my 87' and 89' rebuilt yesterday. Having the damn'dest time getting the rear boot seated. I get it in there, but then when I pull it forward to seat the front boot, the carburetor pull forward from the rear boot!!!

    Any suggestions on getting this right? Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member Badgerflorida's Avatar
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    Some recent posts on here about the rubber shrinking over time. I got my replacement boots from Partzilla. Best price I could find but still pricey. They let me return one I thought I needed but didn’t.
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    Junior Member aaronloffler's Avatar
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    it's not really that it's shrinking, it's that when I get the rear boot seated and band clamped down as tight as it goes it will still pop right out when I pull the carburetor forward to fasten the front boot. The band clamp got bent a little when I removed the carburetor, so I'm gonna get new clamps and see if that works.

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    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    If you have a 87 and 89, I guarantee they've shrunk and hardened. With new/unshrunken boots, you don't have to pull anything, just the opposite, you might wish they were farther apart for ease of installation. They've shrunk overall at least a half an inch and probably more.
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    Senior Member assquatch20's Avatar
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    On my '89 I tried everything. Boiling, a heat gun, petroleum jelly altogether and it just wouldn't seal. Ended up having to order a new one, if I recall, and all was well. On my '07 TW it's quite a bit easier, just rebuilt my carb the other night. I was surprised and relieved I didn't have to order another, but they seem cheaper now than back then.

    Regardless, once you do have it together, remember to spray for leaks around the intake boot and the intake manifold on the other side, especially where it seals to the cylinder. I don't know how experienced you are but if it's sucking air anywhere it'll rev up a bit when a mist of WD40 or carb cleaner and such get through. You don't want that.

  7. #6
    Senior Member Lyterx's Avatar
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    If I remember correctly I had the same problem and loosened the bolts that hold the air box in place and push it forward and snug them back up. Wasn't much but something.
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    Junior Member aaronloffler's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone. I simply just bought the OEM rear boot for not too much cost. Haven't installed it yet, but I'm sure it'll be a nicer squeeze than the 30 year old ones.

  9. #8
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Perhaps try all future carb work leaving front boot attached to intake manifold and simply unbolt manifold from head and work/remove/repair/ re-install carb with manifold attached to carb as an assembly. Slides in and out with need to address only one boot's fitment. I find this much easier than the conventional approach. With carb firmly re-clamped to rear boot any "shortage" at the front can then be easily sucked up using the two manifold-to-head bolts. Also helps to disconnect the turn signal flasher for greater clearance on newer model TWs.
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    Senior Member GaryL's Avatar
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    If the new replacement boots were not available I would figure out some work around because over time they do harden, shrink and get shorter. The boots are still available so just bite the bullet and replace it rather than fight an old hard one. One thing we have learned very well is that an air tight seal around both boots is an absolute necessity for the carb to perform right.

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  11. #10
    Senior Member RaZed1's Avatar
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    The trick of unbolting the carb boot from the head is a good one. Makes it easy peasy to slide in and out.

    I have stuffed the carb back into it's two boots, doing the engine side first, then using a long screwdriver to "peel" the intake boot around the carb mouth. It's not terribly elegant but after you do it a few times not that difficult.

    A bit of silicone spray lube makes finicky/tight boots a lot easier to deal with also.

    My Beta enduro has a neat trick to address this problem- the entire rear subframe pivots. Remove seat, undo 2 bolts, and the whole ass of the bike pivots 90* and points straight up, taking the airbox and intake boot with it. Access to the carb is wide open.

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