Shift Shafft Seal Issues
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Thread: Shift Shafft Seal Issues

  1. #1
    Junior Member Fester's Avatar
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    Shift Shafft Seal Issues

    Hi everyone. I had a slight oil leak at the shift shaft seal when I bought my TW, so I replaced the seal. It slowed down the leak, but didn't stop it. I think the PO might have buggered up the cavity that the seal goes into. Do you suppose that I could install a new seal with a small amount of liquid gasket material in the cavity to help ensure a proper seal?
    Fred likes this.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Rider21's Avatar
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    Yamabond #2, if it's still around, on the outside of the seal only, should help if that's the problem.. Hopefully the shift shaft isn't bent. Yamabond 2 is what seals the center case joint. Good stuff. Seals good and comes off easy.
    Beauty is as beauty does.
    If it works good, it's beautiful.

  3. #3
    Senior Member CJ7Pilot's Avatar
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    When I bought Tommy's bike, he had just replaced the shifter seal. It didn't stop the leak, so he sent a new seal along with the bike. I replaced the seal again, and it still leaked.

    Well, upon closer examination, the shift shaft seal wasn't leaking... that's just the lowest point of the case when the bike is on the side stand, so virtually any leak will drip off right there.

    Mine turned out to be the outboard bearing seal on the counter shaft. I had to remove the side cover to access it, but once I replaced it, there wasn't another drip!

    Good luck with yours... little leaks can be annoying!
    Now I must hurry on... for there they go, and I am their leader!

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  5. #4
    Junior Member Fester's Avatar
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    Wow, thanks CJ7Pilot. I never considered that. I guess I might have to clean things up well and spray some powder to verify source of leak.... How, exactly, did you determine the source of your leak?

  6. #5
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    The two oil seals on either end of the front sprocket shaft are well known for leaking, and given the forces involved, it’s not surprising. As they are only a few bucks each, it’s good practice to change them along with the front sprocket.

    When you are putting on the left hand outer crankcase, make sure you don’t trap the wiring from the stator – another well-known thing to happen, as the magnets pull the thing all over the place ….
    (Warning - Forum may contain nuts) ...... Hidden Content

    TW200 - 1998 - Japanese import - 7000 miles on the clock - TW225 Special Edition 2007
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  7. #6
    Senior Member CJ7Pilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fester View Post
    Wow, thanks CJ7Pilot. I never considered that. I guess I might have to clean things up well and spray some powder to verify source of leak.... How, exactly, did you determine the source of your leak?
    I wiped everything clean, and let it sit over night. In the morning, I laid on the ground with a flashlight, and looked for the source of the leak.

    As I recall, the leak source was pretty evident.

    If this is the case for you, consider replacing your front sprocket, if it is worn. Maybe consider a different tooth count as well, depending upon your needs.

    There's lots of sprocket info on this forum (I like 15t front, 50t rear).

    You might as well kill two birds with one stone!
    Last edited by CJ7Pilot; 01-27-2019 at 06:51 PM.
    Smitty Blackstone likes this.
    Now I must hurry on... for there they go, and I am their leader!

  8. #7
    Senior Member assquatch20's Avatar
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    There's a thread here for sprocket replacement I think that mentions a very good practice, well two really. Put your sprocket cover bolts in a piece of cardboard, possibly using a gasket outline, to keep up with which is which. I've gotten to where I can tell which is which but it's good to do. Also, use a zip tie from the cover to the frame to keep your stator wires from getting frayed.
    Smitty Blackstone and Mel like this.

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