Cutting Handlebars - Advice Needed Please
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Thread: Cutting Handlebars - Advice Needed Please

  1. #1
    Senior Member Badgerflorida's Avatar
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    Cutting Handlebars - Advice Needed Please

    What did you guys use to cut your handlebars? Wondering if a good pipe cutter would make it through aluminum Pro Taper bars.

    Also would like your advice about how much I need to remove because I’m trying to avoid having to cut it more than once. I have Pro Taper Contour ATV High plus Rox antivibration risers and would like to avoid replacing cables if I can. Wondering if anyone has a similar setup. Throttle cables seem to be the biggest restriction so far. Thanks and cheers.
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    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    I have used a used a cheap pipe cutter to score and start the cuts & finish with a saw. Took only about 1/2" for fear of creating a conflict with handguard clamps and OEM swichgear, perches, etc. on seemingly crowded handlebar. I ground off the indexing detent on throttle assembly rather than drill a new hole in the right side bar.
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    Senior Member grewen's Avatar
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    i removed 1" off my bars to get some slack in the throttle cables, gave me lots of slack. these were stock bars, so i just used a cut off wheel
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  5. #4
    Senior Member Ski Pro 3's Avatar
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    Here's my advice on cutting; Size up the remaining straight part where the grip controls attach. If you cut off too much, you will hit the bar's curve before you got the grips all the way on. Rather than cut bars, I've used Honda CR mini bars it Tall rise. These bars are already shorter, have a tall enough rise to offset aftermarket bar risers and have a great sweep to them for wrist position. I've used them on all my full sized dirt bikes I've raced in Enduros and Hare Scrambles.
    Also, there's a small hole in the bar to keep the grips from rotating. You can either replicate the hole by redrilling after shortening the bars, or by grinding off the nub on the grip assembly. Leaving the nub and drilling provides for a very solid grip position while removing allows for the assembly to rotate on a hard crash to keep stuff from breaking.

    If I can find some photos I will and I will actually measure the distance from end-to-end of my shortened bars.

    OH, almost forgot; when shortening bars, IF you add bark busters, the location for the inside mount is going to relocate and may interfere with other controls and such. I can't remember exactly what the issue was, but I've discovered after the fact that cutting bars short does involve some drama when remounting the bark busters. I think I eventually had to cut the bark buster down and redrill it's mounting hole to fit the bar clamp assembly.

    A standard pipe cutter will do a fine job of shortening bars. However, if you didn't shorten enough, and need to trim a little more, there won't be enough on the cut side to run a pipe cutter tool. At least, not without removing more bar than you intended. Measure twice, cut once. If you do want to trim shorter, try a sawzall and plan to file, or better yet, maybe an angle grinder. I worry about power tools that close to the gas tank though, which is why the pipe cutter is much preferred. The electric motor on the grinder or sawzall could be angled too close to the tank and spark something you don't want it to....
    There's always the good old fashioned hack saw. Cuts aluminum just fine if you take the time.

    My guess is that your new bars with risers attached as well may rise them too much and your cables won't reach. I had just that happen to me. I finally was able to reroute the throttle cables to make it work. Keep this in mind and don't panic if you can't get the throttle assembly back over your new bars and riser. First remove the bars from the mounting clamps and twist them around so the throttle grip can reach the end and slide on. After doing that, then mount the bars tot he bike. If still too tight, pull the tank and check cable route for a shorter way.
    Good Luck!

    ****EDIT****

    I post my replies usually before reading previous suggestions to keep my ideas a fresh perspective. This will occasionally result in repeating what others have already posted. Fred got to the thread before me, so I'm repeating a lot of what he already said. I guess that means great minds think alike! Ha!
    It also means it's info that is supported by other members.
    Last edited by Ski Pro 3; 01-31-2019 at 11:37 AM.
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    Senior Member Sthrnromr's Avatar
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    Sawzall and a file. Or a cut-off wheel. Never an issue with either, just take your time.
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