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Thread: New chain advice

  1. #1
    Junior Member TWscott's Avatar
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    New chain advice

    I have about 500 miles on my tw and am considering replacing the stock chain. I ride in very dusty conditions and the chain is already showing more wear than I'd expect it to (being near new). My question is do you have any recommendations for an aftermarket chain and, more importantly, is it wise to change the chain and not the sprockets (I know they wear-in together and I don't want to overthink this). Thanks!

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    X ring is the first choice – O ring the second choice – but truth is you’ll be fine with either

    At 500 miles from new, the sprockets will be fine – just attach the new chain to the old and run it through

    Welcome to the board ….
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Badgerflorida's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum. What Purple said. Clean and lube and they’ll last a long time and generally have less stretch per mile.
    01 street 203/204
    96 hybrid Shinko 241/428
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  5. #4
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Open chains need to be cleaned and oiled every 300 to 400 miles, more often in dusty conditions, and they will last thousands of miles. I have one with about 30,000 on it and still in use.

    If you take the chain off and there are stiff links the damage is done. X and O ring chains are good if you want to avoid maintaining it so much but it won't last as long if you don't.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  6. #5
    Junior Member TWscott's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies, if I choose an o ring or x ring chain are there any to avoid or anything to be aware of (except pitch and length)? I'm eyeing the DID 428 VX and want to be sure it is compatible with my bike and for primarily dirt use.

  7. #6
    Senior Member Gulfrider's Avatar
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    I used the JT x-ring chain. Good product. 500 miles sprockets are still new.
    2005 TW200
    2007 Sportster 1200

  8. #7
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TWscott View Post
    if I choose an o ring or x ring chain are there any to avoid or anything to be aware of
    The only thing to be aware of is the inclusion of the rubber seals on the split link.

    Assuming you’ve met a split link before, you’ll be familiar with running the spring tab along the grooves on the two pins to get it into place – well, now there will be the rubber seals to factor in. It helps if you’ve got five hands, two of which should be small and capable of compressing the link assembly, while the other two (slightly larger) slide the spring steel outer plate into place

    The fifth one is only there to pick bits up from the floor when they ping off, and to have plasters at the ready, open beer cans – that kind of stuff

    I believe that the process can be made easier by some sort of special tool – but hey, you gotta try it by hand first – it’s fun – look at it as an “initiation ceremony”

    When recounting your experiences later on the board, may I remind you that swearing is sorta frowned upon – but we’ll make an exception in this case ……
    GOF likes this.
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  9. #8
    Senior Member Peterb's Avatar
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    I run the DID on one TW and an RK o-ring chain on the other. Both chains are excellent but if I had to choose one I would pick the RK as its cheaper and I found the quality of the connecting link to be better and much easier to install.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Maxpower's Avatar
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    make sure your chain adjusters are synced. Sometimes the numbers are off
    Willys714 likes this.
    87 TW

  11. #10
    Junior Member Nolealum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxpower View Post
    make sure your chain adjusters are synced. Sometimes the numbers are off
    I’m getting ready to replace my changing and curious what you mean and where to look to see if synced. Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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