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Thread: Clutch life span?

  1. #11
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxpower View Post
    when you all are installing Barnett clutches. are you using the Barnett springs also? I'll bet just using those springs alone would stop slippage. I've attempted to use Barnett clutches in other bikes but the supplied springs made the clutch pull entirely too stiff. I'm not debating what anyone else uses. What works for you works for you. I'm saying I stick with OEM when it comes to brakes and clutch plates.
    When the clutch first started slipping the first thing I tried was shimming the springs -- and it worked for a while. Then I tried the Versah heavy duty clutch springs -- and that worked for a while too. The third attempt to cure the clutch slipping was the Barnett clutch with the Barnett springs -- and that worked great!. Smooth action, minimal sticking, and no slipping. The difference between the Versah and Barnett spring was minimal, at least at the clutch lever, but I used the Barnett springs because they were included in the kit.

    "What works for you works for you." Also my philosophy! I simply state what I have done and whether or not I am happy with the results and for me, with the Barnett Kevlar clutch, I am very happy.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member nihil's Avatar
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    Barnett clutch discs and springs ordered. Stock shouldn't be dead after only 5k miles, but I'm going to have it open anyway to do the kickstarter install, so may as well.

    Thanks all for the input.
    Ken likes this.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member Sthrnromr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nihil View Post
    Barnett clutch discs and springs ordered. Stock shouldn't be dead after only 5k miles, but I'm going to have it open anyway to do the kickstarter install, so may as well.

    Thanks all for the input.
    That's what I did. Clutch was fine, but since I had to remove it for kickstart install, I just replaced it with the Barnett kit. Makes even more sense in your case.
    2010 TW200 - The Goat
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  5. #14
    Senior Member jb882's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nihil View Post
    Barnett clutch discs and springs ordered. Stock shouldn't be dead after only 5k miles, but I'm going to have it open anyway to do the kickstarter install, so may as well.

    Thanks all for the input.
    You are right that it should last a lot longer than it has. What you don't know is what the prior owner may have done to it as far as abusing the clutch. I also wonder if the internal pushrod needs to be adjusted.

    If you are going to have it apart anyway now is the time to upgrade the clutch too. I would be curious to see how the plates measure for wear once you have it apart.

    I did the Barnett clutch on my girlfriends TW and it is truly a great upgrade. Her bike had ~16k on the clock and it was not at all worn out or slipping. She simply hated the feel of the stock one, the Barnett kit totally took care of that issue. One of these days i want to do mine too.
    Pair of 2006 TW's modded to the hilt and a Ducati Multistrada.

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  6. #15
    Senior Member nihil's Avatar
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    Yeah, I'm one of those "while I have it apart...." types, and no sense in not replacing or upgrading the clutch if I'm already going to have it open.

    And in true form, since I just noticed my fork boots were splitting, that turned into may as well do the fork oil since I'll have them out. And since I'll have them open, may as well do fork springs since I'm a larger gent. If I'm doing fork springs, might as well see what these emulators are all about. And I'll be damned if I'm going to do the front suspension without throwing an appropriate spring on the rear. Procycle just ate my credit card.

    And that's on top of a fresh set of tires/tubes waiting on go on with new pads and shoes.
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  7. #16
    Junior Member Studawg777's Avatar
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    I would like to see some pics of these overhauls when your done, and hear a report on your opinion as well. And where did you buy the kick starter kit as well?

  8. #17
    Senior Member Maxpower's Avatar
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    It doesn't make sense with that low hour motor. You definitely have enough play at the lever? Cable slides and lever snaps back smoothly? Don't mean to be insulting by stating the obvious but the TW motor puts up with a lot of stupidity. I know a guy that has abused his TW a lot and it just keeps running
    Willys714 likes this.
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  9. #18
    Senior Member nihil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Studawg777 View Post
    I would like to see some pics of these overhauls when your done, and hear a report on your opinion as well. And where did you buy the kick starter kit as well?
    Anything specific you'd like pics/vid of? When it's done, pics aren't going to show much since most of it is internal.

    I got the kickstarter parts from boats.net, substituting the kick lever part number as mentioned in this thread:
    https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/per...continued.html


    Quote Originally Posted by Maxpower View Post
    It doesn't make sense with that low hour motor. You definitely have enough play at the lever? Cable slides and lever snaps back smoothly? Don't mean to be insulting by stating the obvious but the TW motor puts up with a lot of stupidity. I know a guy that has abused his TW a lot and it just keeps running
    No offense taken, it's an odd scenario. Play at the lever and at the arm were within spec, I set/adjusted them to what was indicated in the manual when I put the shorty levers on. I did notice the return didn't quite feel as return'y as it did/should, which is why I shimmed between the external return spring and the arm. Maybe that spring got sprung? It had been behaving great all day, and just went to shit on the way home.
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  10. #19
    Senior Member RaZed1's Avatar
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    The clutch in the TW (like a lot of other Yamaha's dating from the 80s) is marginal at best. On full throttle acceleration in top gear even the slightest touch at the lever will make it slip. It's juuuuust barely holding on at best of times. Up the engine power a little (a wiseco piston was enough to do it on both mine), raising the gearing (gives the clutch less of a mechanical advantage), or using some super slippery synthetic can all be enough for it to slip. Same goes for a slightly sticky clutch cable, weak return spring, or too little play in the cable. Ensure you have good slack in the cable and it's well lubed. If you're using some super magic fairy dust infused synthetic, try a different brand or switching to conventional. "wet clutch safe" is a virtually meaningless term(just means it doesn't have the API energy conserving mark, which you can see for yourself on the donut) and I've seen plenty of clutches slip after using a "wet clutch safe" motorcycle oil.

    Both my TW's ended up getting the Vesrah heavy duty clutch springs which cured the issue. They're maybe 5mm longer than the stock ones, as well as noticeably firmer to squish by hand.

  11. #20
    Senior Member nihil's Avatar
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    Oh come now, stock clutch isn't -that- bad, you can clutch-up wheelie in second if you try hard enough.
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