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Thread: Ultrasonic Cleaning of Carburetor

  1. #11
    Senior Member stagewex's Avatar
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    I use a small ProSonik. I've never really read a bad review on any brand of these things but I'm sure there is one that sucks. All seem to be built in China but perhaps in different prisons.
    This one is small but deep so I can get a lot of smaller parts in it but a whole carb body as well. The smaller jewelry cleaning version was too small. Kinda looks like a little french-fry maker to me. A lot of carbs and smaller rifle and pistol parts have gone through this thing. I use as others have mentioned, Simple Green and water. The ratio is based on how bad a particular piece is but 50-50 seems to be perfect. And the cleaning solution is just mental insurance anyway as it is really the ultrasound that does the work.

    I am not a fan of using brake cleaner or carb cleaner in a ultrasonic cleaner. They are already toxic solutions so heating them to 175 or 180 as my little cleaner peaks at is changing the chemical structures itself. Actually let me re-phrase that... I do use both brake & carb cleaner but not in an ultrasonic cleaner. So if you are doing that or think "it'll make it even cleaner", please make sure you are doing it outside. The fumes themselves will become more toxic than ever:

    IMG_8130.JPG

    Small tiny parts. I add a bed of paper towel so that they are not sitting on the bottom of the tank in the debris:
    IMG_8532.JPG

    Carb body and bigger parts are done separately:
    IMG_8100.jpg

    Heating up. I think mine tops out at 175-180 degrees. Use tongs or needle nose-pliers to remove and flush under cool water:
    IMG_8533.jpg

    All done. This is one-half of a pair of 50 year old Bing carbs. All brass, copper and fine metal:
    IMG_8101.JPG

    Re-Assembled, polished and rebuild gasketed. They don't do this at a dealership:
    IMG_8108.JPG

    IMG_8515.jpg
    Last edited by stagewex; 05-09-2019 at 11:15 AM.
    2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
    2006 Yamaha TW200 (Elec & Kick Start)
    1995 BMW K75 (Elec Start)
    1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only)
    1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)
    1969 BMW r60/2, US Model (Kick Start Only)

  2. #12
    Senior Member Xracer's Avatar
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    They look nice on that airhead.
    jtomelliott49 likes this.

  3. #13
    Senior Member stagewex's Avatar
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    Thanks.
    jtomelliott49 likes this.
    2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
    2006 Yamaha TW200 (Elec & Kick Start)
    1995 BMW K75 (Elec Start)
    1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only)
    1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)
    1969 BMW r60/2, US Model (Kick Start Only)

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  5. #14
    Senior Member RaZed1's Avatar
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    I'll note that whatever plastic the HF sonic cleaner is encased in, is instantly hazed by carb or brake cleaner, so keep those away.

    Most US cleaners have warnings not to put flammable substances in them. I would not think putting any kind of harsh solvent in one is a good idea, nor would it be necessary.

    It would be nice to have a deeper cleaner- the HF one is shallow enough that most carbs have to be "flipped", it's not deep enough to totally submerge them unless you're talking a little lawnmower or pitbike carb. But ultimately, I don't use it so often that it's a big concern, and this doesn't seem to have ever adversely affected results. Every carb that comes out has looked virtually new and after a rebuild, runs smooth as can be.

    I sent my '08 TW's carb for a bath and treated it to a rebuild kit, just for grins. The bike ran perfectly fine before, but afterward, there was a notable improvement. Smoother idle, instant cold starting were most noticeable. Same story with the 6 carbs on my Valkyrie. Bike ran seemingly fine before, no complaints, but after a buzz bath and rebuild kit, wow, does it run like absolute butter now.

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