Stalling after running 10-15 minutes
Close
    
    
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
Like Tree8Likes

Thread: Stalling after running 10-15 minutes

  1. #1
    Junior Member masonshear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    8

    Stalling after running 10-15 minutes

    Still chasing this issue on my 98 TW200. Today it started right up and rode well. Occasionally at a stop sign it would stall out but it would fire right back up. After about 15 minutes of riding it bogged out and wouldn't restart so I pushed it home. When the bike died the battery was dead, when I started riding it the battery had a charge in it. When I got home I gave it a shot of starting fluid and it fired right up until it burned it away then it shut back off. It seems like a fueling issue but my carb was professionally rebuilt already. Then today I swapped on a brand new carb and it's still having the same issue. Petcock was flowing, I pulled the line and it had a steady flow to it. I've been chasing this problem for a while and don't know where to go from here. It really seems like it's a fueling issue since the ether made it fire but I think it's weak spark and the ether can ignite it when the gasoline can't any ideas?

  2. #2
    Senior Member SHAG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Bradford, Pa
    Posts
    902
    Eliminate the tank not venting problem first !

    Check the threads below
    elime likes this.
    Go like hell, You'll get there quicker!
    05-BMW1200GS- Rock Red 106k miles
    2013-TW200 - 8k- miles
    2018 X-MAX - 2k- miles

  3. #3
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    6,896
    Quote Originally Posted by SHAG View Post
    Eliminate the tank not venting problem first !

    Check the threads below
    Agreed! Loosen the gas cap and see if it stalls then.
    admiral likes this.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  4. Remove Advertisements
    TW200Forum.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Junior Member masonshear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    8
    Tried popping the cap off as well, no dice

  6. #5
    Senior Member UncleRandy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    158
    This seems like it could be an electrical issue. Possibly the coil-pack? I have had similar experiences with a lawn tractor that had a crack in the coil pack. It started and ran fine for a bit-then once it heated up-the coil pack which had a small hairline crack in it expanded and the spark was lost-leading to the same symptoms you are having. Once it cooled down, it would start and run fine and then repeat the problem all over.
    admiral likes this.

  7. #6
    Junior Member masonshear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by UncleRandy View Post
    This seems like it could be an electrical issue. Possibly the coil-pack? I have had similar experiences with a lawn tractor that had a crack in the coil pack. It started and ran fine for a bit-then once it heated up-the coil pack which had a small hairline crack in it expanded and the spark was lost-leading to the same symptoms you are having. Once it cooled down, it would start and run fine and then repeat the problem all over.
    Tried a new coil, no dice. Only thing I didn't try was a new plug boot, the extra coil I had was missing the boot. I'm starting to think it's the CDI, i've read 2 threads with similar problems and that's what it turned out to be but I don't really want to waste several hundred dollars and find out it wasn't the CDI

  8. #7
    Senior Member admiral's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Frosty Hollow
    Posts
    12,746
    Quote Originally Posted by masonshear View Post
    Still chasing this issue on my 98 TW200. Today it started right up and rode well. Occasionally at a stop sign it would stall out but it would fire right back up. After about 15 minutes of riding it bogged out and wouldn't restart so I pushed it home. When the bike died the battery was dead, when I started riding it the battery had a charge in it. When I got home I gave it a shot of starting fluid and it fired right up until it burned it away then it shut back off. It seems like a fueling issue but my carb was professionally rebuilt already. Then today I swapped on a brand new carb and it's still having the same issue. Petcock was flowing, I pulled the line and it had a steady flow to it. I've been chasing this problem for a while and don't know where to go from here. It really seems like it's a fueling issue since the ether made it fire but I think it's weak spark and the ether can ignite it when the gasoline can't any ideas?
    I offer this information as an additional possible cause and in know way want you to disregard any of the information others have provided you already. Just another possibility.

    The tricky thing here is your battery goes dead. May be a clue but I'm not sure. Maybe a weaker battery and with you trying to start it after stalling it drains the battery of it's remaining electrons.

    One possibility is the Pulser Coil also known as a pickup coil located with the stator under the left engine side cover. On one of my TW's I had similar symptoms as you. After riding for 15-20 minutes the engine would stall out. Sometimes I could get it to start but as this engine stalling reoccurred, the less likely it was to restart. With the engine sitting overnight I could get it to start again but the engine would stall after 15-20 minutes again.

    I watched a troubleshooting video about pickup coil's which indicated it was hard to test the Pulser coil when the engine was warmed up. The Pulser coil wires would test OK when cold but not hot/warm. Unfortunately, the only way to really be able to tell is to replace the Pulser coil. Parts swapping diagnostics isn't the best if you don't have donor bike parts on hand. I had an old TW and swapped the Pulser coil which cured my problem. A 1998 Pulser Coil is about $83.00 at https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/2.

    Because the symptoms are so similar to a carburetor problem, I veered off into cleaning and even swapping out the carb with a known good one before I realized it wasn't a carb issue but and electronic issue.

    Good luck and hope you get it figured out.
    Sthrnromr likes this.
    Hidden Content A ride in the woods helps me relax and release tension. The fact I'm dragging a body should be entirely irrelevant?

  9. #8
    Senior Member imlost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Portland, Oregon / East Cape, Baja Sur
    Posts
    203
    I recently bought an xt225, and it also did this. It turned out to be loose rust in the tank that was clogging the petcock screen. Not saying that's what it is, but as others have mentioned, you just have to start eliminating possibilities to narrow down the cause.

    I like admiral's suggestion, too.
    Sthrnromr and admiral like this.
    TWy to make a TWip to the TWails to make some TWacks.

  10. #9
    Senior Member imlost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Portland, Oregon / East Cape, Baja Sur
    Posts
    203
    When my '87 had a bad CDI, it wouldn't run well when it was warm. When I first started the bike on a cold morning, it would run good for a few minutes and then would start to miss and run really crappy, until it finally died. Then I couldn't get it to run well again until the CDI cooled (either the next morning, or by putting it in the freezer). The symptoms you're experiencing don't sound exactly like this.
    Sthrnromr and admiral like this.
    TWy to make a TWip to the TWails to make some TWacks.

  11. #10
    Senior Member RaZed1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    220
    If the battery goes dead while riding that's a clue. There's some sort of problem with the charging system. Stator or rectifier.

    I doubt it's a fuel issue. Sounds electrical. Electrical components when they go bad often fail when they get hot, I've seen stators that work OK cool, but their output gradually fades to nil once the engine reaches operating temperature, Or, like 10-15 minutes.

    Your CDI box needs energy to generate sparks. The trigger coil is just that, a "trigger" it does not generate the energy itself for the spark. That comes from the battery, from the rectifier, from the stator. It'll run off the battery for a while- not very long, the headlight and ignition will suck the little TW battery flat within 15-20 minutes), and with nothing recharging it, your bike in effect runs out of electrons and dies.

    Charge the battery and fire the bike up. Put a voltmeter across the battery with the engine at fast idle. Should read 14-14.4v or so. I'm guessing yours will read <12.5, meaning the bike is draining the battery, not charging it.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Sponosred Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. Explore The World In 4 Minutes...
    By littletommy in forum Off-Topic
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-15-2016, 10:45 AM
  2. 30 minutes 'til Yum
    By jeffrolives in forum Off-Topic
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-13-2015, 09:01 PM
  3. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-22-2014, 10:59 PM
  4. Motor dies after 15 minutes (starts back up)
    By Leegancoogal in forum Technical Help
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 09-25-2012, 08:21 AM
  5. stalling after 1-2 miles
    By cool breeze in forum Technical Help
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-05-2011, 06:01 PM