Tuning carburetor on 1992 CA tw200 - Page 3
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Thread: Tuning carburetor on 1992 CA tw200

  1. #21
    Junior Member efnick's Avatar
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    I found the 114 stamp on it, is the plastic shield over the main jet necessary?
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  2. #22
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by efnick View Post
    I found the 114 stamp on it, is the plastic shield over the main jet necessary?
    One of my TW's has it and the other one doesn't and I can't tell the difference. I say if you have it use it. If not don't worry about it.

    I magnified the pic of your jet and it looks corroded, much like the one I replaced.

    Here is a picture of the #114 jet I replaced along with the jet I replaced it with. It solved what was wrong with my TW at the time.

    Jet3.jpg
    Last edited by elime; 07-03-2019 at 06:12 PM.
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    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  3. #23
    Junior Member efnick's Avatar
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    elime, before i took the bike apart today i had it tuned to where it was idling reliably and had good mid range power, but stumbling top end. i took it apart and very thoroughly cleaned out the jets, and the fuel passage from where the petcock dumps into, and upon reassembling and starting the bike, it is now extremely rich at idle, to where it wont stay on without nursing the throttle, but its got immaculate top end! i think you were right, i suspect i blew out some of the corrosion in the jets today and created this new issue. i suspect its time for a carb gasket and jet kit.
    Last edited by efnick; 07-03-2019 at 08:12 PM.
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  5. #24
    Junior Member efnick's Avatar
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    Ok, update-

    rebuilt the carburetor using a "moose racing" carb repair kit

    replaced the main nozzle, replaced the main jet, left the pilot jet, replaced the float needle/ valve set (there was a ton of crud plugging the screen when i pulled it and a lot of brass corrosion), replaced drain plug screw, replaced air idle mixture screw, reinstalled with the original pilot jet and needle with one shim, bike started good but wasnt idling well and the air fuel fuel mixture adjustment wasnt really affecting idle at all.

    Pulled carb, removed new main jet and compared to original, both marked 114 but the new jet had a smaller diameter opening than the old so i reinstalled the old jet on the new main nozzle, not too much difference in the way it ran, so pulled carb, pulled old pilot jet and compared to new pilot jet (both marked 40) and the new pilot jet has a slightly larger opening, cleaned the pilot circuit? (opening that goes from main inlet in carb to where the pilot jet is at) and reinstalled, again, issues with idle.

    pulled carb, removed old needle and shim, intall new brass looking needle with no shim, now better idle with full choke, starts warming up idle goes up, put choke at halfway, idling good but ocasionally pops and then has weird idle and needs more choke, then once warm (idle raises as it warms up on choke by the way) i put choke fully off and it just doesnt want to idle. bike is slightly rich at idle and so the idle mixture postition that it likes best is at around 1 3/4 turns out from a gentle seat. with half choke it has good throttle response, though i havnt ridden it yet. ALSO, there is a leak in the intake boot (intake side of carb), confirmed by spraying with cleaning fluid and getting a raise in idle. dont know if that air leak would cause this failure to idle, though. tried increasing idle speed with the idle screw and it didnt seem to help, maybe i need to really crank that screw down or something? i dont know...

  6. #25
    Junior Member efnick's Avatar
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    Pics in order- new rebuild kit
    Float valve and filter/ screen
    Float valve passage with crud in it
    Old main jet next to new jet
    Old needle next to new needle
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  7. #26
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Air leak is on the intake valve side of the carb? Or on the air filter side of the carb? If its on the intake valve side of the carb. fix it before you do anything else. If its on the air filter side of the carb I don't think it would make much difference other than letting dirt and dust in.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  8. #27
    Junior Member efnick's Avatar
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    The air leak is on the air filter side of the carburetor

  9. #28
    Ken
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    Remember the old trick of put your hand across the carb to block air and it makes it run richer. I think with an air leak on the air filter side it will make it run a little leaner since it is bypassing the filter. On my 1993 this did make a difference. Mine at wot would chug or thump because it was lacking fuel. When I fixed the air leak on the leaking air boot on the filter side I never had another issue with it.
    1993 TW200 just shy of 46,000 miles

  10. #29
    Junior Member efnick's Avatar
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    Makes sense, unfortunately it is currently tuned slightly rich from factory settings, and the issue I'm working on right now is an idle issue. It warms up and with choke off, the idle is super low and uneven and just wont hold at all.
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  11. #30
    Ken
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    You may need to put a smaller pilot jet in it for the idle circuit.
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    1993 TW200 just shy of 46,000 miles

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