Hesitation/ Sputter on Fast throttle opening.
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Thread: Hesitation/ Sputter on Fast throttle opening.

  1. #1
    Junior Member madyammy700's Avatar
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    Hesitation/ Sputter on Fast throttle opening.

    I have a 2013 TW with 4600km (under 3000 miles) itís mostly stock with the exception of some jetting.
    Iíve changed that trying to chase down a hesitation issue.
    I went from a 128 main to a 130. I went from a 31 pilot to a 34 pilot.
    I tried needles shims. 1, 2, 3, none... nothing really changes it.
    I have my air fuel at 2 turns now, but have tweaked that with no change to my issue. It affects idle speed and initial throttle response but thatís it.

    I have stock filter and exhaust and have installed new plug.

    When riding at lower rpms and I whack the throttle, it chokes, Hesitates, sputters... (whatever you want to call it), then revs up.
    The bike idles perfect and works awesome on top end with no fuss.
    Itís just the quick throttle opening that chokes it.

    What can I do?

    Iíve tried a couple different carb slide springs I had in a tool box, no real change.

    Itís really annoying.
    Please help.


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  2. #2
    Junior Member madyammy700's Avatar
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    Forgot to add... Iím at Sea level for elevation.




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  3. #3
    Senior Member TW_in_BC's Avatar
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    Sounds like you are overly rich.
    Well not necessarily YOU...but the air-fuel mixture sounds to be overly enriched.

    Is the inside of your exhaust pipe black with soot?
    Do you get any backfiring while riding?
    What does your spark plug look like?
    Can you start without choke?
    Did you have this problem BEFORE you changed jets?

    My 01 was completely stock and would go from sea level to over 5000' without issues.
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  5. #4
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    So when you whack the throttle, you’re shifting the potential from the idle jet, to the main jet, but only after around 35%. But if the idle is running rich, that will choke the entire process before the main jet takes over

    Wind it back down to a 31 pilot and see what happens ….
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  6. #5
    Junior Member madyammy700's Avatar
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    I had the problem before the jetting change. Itís the reason I was jetting.
    I thought sure it was just a lean pilot and a lager one with some needle shims and fuel screw tweek and it would be good.

    The tail pipe is clean like almost white glove clean.
    The plug is clean as well
    The cleanest plug pic is the newer one with 50 miles running on the new jetting. The old one was what I removed from before the jets and after. I swapped plugs to eliminate as an issue.

    I used to get major popping on deceleration but now thatís almost completely gone. If Iím going down a long hill and off the throttle, I might get one or 2 little pops in 10-15 seconds.
    The bike needs a touch of choke to start, but not for long. Also before and now, I needs a little throttle input to fire up smoothly . Like just a little blip as you hit the starter button.


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  7. #6
    Senior Member Gastone165's Avatar
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    Try removing the air filter and cover to allow as much air into the air box as possible. This would be a test. It might be wanting a little more air. If this works maybe a higher flow filter may help. It may not do a thing, buts it a cheap test.
    Also check all your carb boots for good seals.
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  8. #7
    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    Hesitation/balking/stumbling is usually a lean issue, as opposed to blubbering, if rich.
    Check for a vacuum leak, which has the most effect at low RPMs.
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  9. #8
    Senior Member imlost's Avatar
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    Pull your petcock and make sure the screen isn't clogged. Replace any other fuel filters you may have. Make sure your fuel line is not kinked.
    TWy to make a TWip to the TWails to make some TWacks.

  10. #9
    Senior Member TW_in_BC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SportsterDoc View Post
    Hesitation/balking/stumbling is usually a lean issue, as opposed to blubbering, if rich.
    Check for a vacuum leak, which has the most effect at low RPMs.
    That would be the next thing to check when the signs of "overly rich" aren't there...
    Make sure the diaphragm is whole, without cuts or holes and/or isn't pinched under the cap.
    Also check float level if you haven't already.
    Go back to STOCK jetting and start from scratch to establish a baseline, as I mentioned...mine was bone stock and I had no issues with stumbling or hesitation, so you can go back to stock jetting, since that obviously isn't the issue. Once you've got the problem worked out...you can play with the jetting and note how each change affects performance.
    If you try to solve the problem without a STOCK engine...you're going to be chasing your tail for a while.

    Here is the test I was told to perform on my old XT225 - which has the exact same engine as the TW (minus the extra long output shaft).
    Once you think you have your jetting/carb/exhaust/airbox done right...get the engine warmed up and head for a long, straight piece of road...
    Start rolling and shift into highest gear (5th)...and while moving about 20 mph give her full throttle.
    She should accelerate smoothly, all the way up to top speed without missing, burbling or backfiring...once this test is successful, you have everything right.
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  11. #10
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    I agree with TW in BC to check your float level. Maybe even raise it a teeny bit. And with SportsterDoc to look for vacuum leaks.

    Other than that get a carburetor with an accelerator pump......or live with it. My TW does the same thing when it is cold but once thoroughly warmed up it doesn't.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

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