Rear Wheel Bearings
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Thread: Rear Wheel Bearings

  1. #1
    Senior Member Ken's Avatar
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    Rear Wheel Bearings

    Is there any specific rear wheel bearings anyone has switched too? I ordered some and they were the wrong size. Has anyone tried any ABEC 5 or anything different?
    1993 TW200 just over 46,000 miles

  2. #2
    Senior Member Xracer's Avatar
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    I've used SKF bearings for many years and have been happy with them. You can get them from Napa. Also I like to upgrade from an open wheel bearing to a shielded type to keep the dirt out.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Ken's Avatar
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    I read the SKF are good but I didn't know where to get them from. I ordered All Balls for now since I found a great deal on a set but thanks for the heads up about Napa.
    1993 TW200 just over 46,000 miles

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  5. #4
    Senior Member RaZed1's Avatar
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    Napa sells bearings but at pretty enormous markups. Most auto parts stores use "velocity pricing", meaning stuff they sell a lot of is priced pretty competitively, stuff they don't sell a lot of they put fat margins on to make up for it. Loose bearings are not really a common item on cars now. Napa wanted $24 for a wheel bearing(one) for my Valkyrie. House brand was a SKF but they did have a "value" bearing for $9, which was a Chinese generic. Local bearing shop/industrial supply also had SKF, but still for $18.

    Online, ended up getting them for around $7.50 each, I think from Motion Industries. Be a little careful where/who you order from, fake bearings are pretty common. If they're 99 cents and claim to be something like a SKF, Nachi, ect, they're not.

    I've used All Balls kits in the past and honestly have no problems to report. They do use generic Chinese bearings, but they seem to be relatively fair quality, a lot better than some of the loosey goosey 99 cent eBay ones that feel like they were greased with sand and WD40 inside. But as a kit they're kind of expensive. Two generic bearings and two seals for $30? The bearings are a couple dollars each tops and seals a few cents if you were to buy them individually as generic industrial supplies.

    Bearings and seals are industrial legos, there's nothing special or OEM specific about them in the vast majority of cases.

    "ABEC" is a specification for allowable tolerance in the bearing, not a specific brand or type. Motorcycle wheel bearings are not an application that demands extreme precision. Whatever the standard tolerance is (many brands that's ABEC 3 aka "electric motor grade") is fine for wheel bearing use. There's space for expansion when warm from use and do not come at undue/unnecessary cost (going up the precision ladder skyrockets the price fast).

    For wheel bearings you will want to get a -2RS, meaning double rubber sealed. "Shielded" are metal, well, shields that are intended to keep the mice and ants out, but not really fine dust or liquids. Open bearings are for where lubrication is continually present, i.e inside an engine crankcase or something.
    Last edited by RaZed1; 07-23-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member Xracer's Avatar
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    Open bearing are also found in things like sprocket carriers. Why they are used there is anyone's guess. Needless to say I replace them with good sealed ones.
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  7. #6
    Senior Member Tiny-Wheel-200's Avatar
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    Feel free to cheap out. Even chinesium ones will last a long time. Tge load put on them from 16? Go is tiny and the distance traveled by most tws is small. It takes 40 minutes to change them so your hard earned money at is likely better spent elsewhere.

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