Case Bolts Upgrade from Phillips Head to Hex
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Thread: Case Bolts Upgrade from Phillips Head to Hex

  1. #1
    Junior Member SuperDave23's Avatar
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    Case Bolts Upgrade from Phillips Head to Hex

    Hi All,

    Didn't find this in a search so I figured I'd ask real quick. Going to pull of the side cover to change sprockets. My 91 has the stock "phillips" pan head screws. I'm betting money that I'll strip a few out, even with a correct JIS head driver as they've probably never been off in the last 28 years.

    I see that in 2001 they upgraded to normal hex head bolts. The 91 shows 8 of one screw and 2 of the other. The 01 shows 6 of one, 2 of another and 2 of another but still 10 total. I'm curious if anyone has done this upgrade? Not sure who's bright idea it was to use a phillips head screw in such a crucial role...

    The bolts are only about $1/each from Rocky Mountain so not much invested.
    Last edited by SuperDave23; 08-25-2019 at 09:30 PM.
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    Dave
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  2. #2
    GOF
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    I wonder how many you could source locally with a trip to the hardware store?
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Errtu's Avatar
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    My 2001 had 8 and 2. Take one bolt of each size to a True Value if you have one. They have a board with female thread sizes both in metric and standard so you can match the threads perfectly. Then just match the desired length and you are golden.
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  5. #4
    Junior Member attwguy's Avatar
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    Been there, just did that. Every one of those bolts wanted to fight me with a JIS screwdriver. I invested in a Craftsman hand impact driver and the battle was over, a great little tool.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member assquatch20's Avatar
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    I need to do this again with my new bike but you can get a pre-assembled set from Stainless Cycle on eBay. I'd recommend using copper paste with them though if you go stainless. Heck, it wouldn't hurt even with the stock fasteners. https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-TW20...0AAMXQOT5Q9zeP
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  7. #6
    Senior Member Peterb's Avatar
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    I bought all the bolts at the dealer just like you are talking about. They are like 35 mm and 45 mm long so not likely to get the right length at a jobber plus the oem ones are a flanged bolt with a 8mm head. An impact driver is great for removing the originals.
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  8. #7
    Senior Member GaryL's Avatar
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    Case bolts. It does not make much difference if they are hex head or the original Phillips type JIS ones. The first rule is to use a proper and tight fitting driver head whether it be a JIS or hex Allen wrench. The second rule is to always use a slap hammer impact driver to break the bolt free and do this before you bugger the head. The third rule is to always used a thread paste such as Never Seeze or the copper stuff. Lastly, make a template out of cardboard using the new gasket and as you remove each bolt poke it through the corresponding hole so you know where it goes back because each bolt is a slightly different length. Stainless bolts do look nice but stainless is brittle and subject to break much easier than steel bolts. Dissimilar metals is where all the problems arise from. Aluminum cases with steel bolts tend to form a corrosive reaction that fuses or welds the two metals together. The use of thread paste will be your friend and on a brand new bike I highly recommend to treat each bolt immediately when you get the bike home. I do not know why right from the factory some of these bolts are overly torqued but it is a fact. For the most part they need only be snug when replacing them and just check them after a ride to be sure none have loosened up and there are no oil leaks. The absolute worst ones to deal with are at the exhaust flange in the jug so you want to be very careful with those. The use of a hand held slap hammer impact driver allows you to have the driver head fully seated and straight into the slots or hex in the bolt and you do not want to be cocked or out of alignment at all when breaking the bolt free.

    GaryL
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    Junior Member SuperDave23's Avatar
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    I've got a hand impact which I purchased to remove bolts from the old XT225 I had before. Sounds like I'm prepared.

    I assume these will come off easier with a cold motor as the parts will contract slightly? When hot it should be harder? I know sometimes its easier to get things apart when hot.

    Thanks,
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  10. #9
    Junior Member SuperDave23's Avatar
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    Got the case off using the #3 JIS driver and only one bolt required the hand impact. The rest came off pretty easy and I could have re-used them. I ended up purchasing the hex bolts for the new style and they all appear to be the same length as the original ones.

    Thanks for the help!

    I"m not done as I've found some other issues, but that's for a different thread!
    jtomelliott49 likes this.
    Dave
    91 TW200
    04 400EXC
    06 DR650SE

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