Head light heli coil
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Thread: Head light heli coil

  1. #1
    Junior Member AKTW's Avatar
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    Head light heli coil

    When I bought my TW200 the previous owner informed me that the screw below the headlight was stripped. I think this screw adjusts the angle of the headlight. As of now it is lighting up the side of the road more than the middle. I am thinking about using a helicoil to replace it. Has anyone ever done this? What size coil? drill/tap is needed?

    I had the bike in the interior of Alaska for a few months and since there is no darkness from June to August, I never noticed how far off it is.
    Last edited by AKTW; 09-17-2019 at 10:08 PM.
    2017 KLR650
    2009 TW200

  2. #2
    Senior Member FIRE UP's Avatar
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    Well,
    I'd have to take a look at mine to see if that would work. I've used "nutserts" or otherwise known as "Rivnuts" for decades to replace worn out or damaged threads in certain applications. They are a bit simpler to install than heli-coils. Of course, you need a tool to do a basic install. A nut and bolt will do it but, a specific tool works way better. You can get them, and the nutserts at Harbor Freight. These are just some ideas for you to maybe take a look at. And, if you were to purchase that tool, you can install different sized nutserts in all kinds of applications, for quite some time. Most of the time, a nutsert or rivnut, is installed in a type of situation called a "blind fastener". That is, you cannot get to the back side of something, to put a nut on a screw or bolt. This nutsert is just like a rivet only, after the install, what remains is a set of machine threads that you can use and reuse many times.
    Scott
    Retired SDFD, 30 years,
    2004 Itasca Horizon 36GD CAT C-7 330HP
    2008 Honda GL1800 Goldwing Caliente red
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    2115 Jeep JKUR Rubicon
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    Me, the wife and our killer Mini Schnauzer, "Sophie"

  3. #3
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    Nutserts are great until they fail and start slipping, then one is truly screwed. Might be hard to readily and affordably find proper metric size rivnut or nutset in Ketchikan or Prince of Wales.

    As far as AKTW's problem he might be best using a metric tap & die to chase the damaged threads and use a new screw to adjust the headlight's beam vertically. Horizontal mis-alignment likely caused by bent headlight mounting bracket's sheetmetal which is easily corrected with a little judicious bending using an adjustable spanner ( crescent wrench set to proper gap).
    Size and thread pitch of screw is same as a vast number of other TW fasteners, try taking a airbox cover screw to store to get a match.
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  5. #4
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Which screw is stripped? A or B ?

    P3040065.JPG

    Forget the helicoil. If B is stripped, if it is the bolt, replace the bolt. If the "hole" is stripped, maybe get a longer bolt and put a nut on the back side. Or maybe drill and tap it for a slightly larger bolt.

    If A is stripped it is probably the nylon / plastic nut on the back side. Hopefully you can just replace it. Maybe even JB Weld a metal nut in place. Worst case would be to put a nut on either side of the plastic nut and tighten them against each other.

    P3040063.JPG

    My guess is the head light needs adjusting and the bolt that holds the cowl in place is stripped. Two independent problems.
    Last edited by elime; 09-11-2019 at 10:01 AM.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  6. #5
    Senior Member FIRE UP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred View Post
    Nutserts are great until they fail and start slipping, then one is truly screwed. Might be hard to readily and affordably find proper metric size rivnut or nutset in Ketchikan or Prince of Wales.

    As far as AKTW's problem he might be best using a metric tap & die to chase the damaged threads and use a new screw to adjust the headlight's beam vertically. Horizontal mis-alignment likely caused by bent headlight mounting bracket's sheetmetal which is easily corrected with a little judicious bending using an adjustable spanner ( crescent wrench set to proper gap).
    Size and thread pitch of screw is same as a vast number of other TW fasteners, try taking a airbox cover screw to store to get a match.
    Yeah Fred,
    I've dealt with nutserts for half my life. I used to prep new fire trucks for service as an overtime assignment. If I had to guess, I'd say we used no less than a few hundred thousand of nutserts in that operation, in a 24 year period that I was assigned to that status. And, every once in a while, RARE but, it did happen, one would come loose and, we'd have a heck of a time getting a *spinning" nutsert out, and a new one installed. But, we never let them win, we always did, and got them removed. I have a very expensive hydraulic nutsert gun that I use vs the cheap-o ones sold at Harbor Freight. We stopped using aluminum nutserts within minutes of starting. We went to cadmium plated steel nutserts and from that point on, almost zero problems.

    In any case, the OP's been given some good alternatives so, he should come out ok.
    Scott
    Retired SDFD, 30 years,
    2004 Itasca Horizon 36GD CAT C-7 330HP
    2008 Honda GL1800 Goldwing Caliente red
    2007 TW 200 "Blue Noid"
    2115 Jeep JKUR Rubicon
    2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4
    HAM, KI6OND
    Me, the wife and our killer Mini Schnauzer, "Sophie"

  7. #6
    Junior Member AKTW's Avatar
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    With Amazon all things are possible in Alaska. Free shipping but no 2-day deliveries.
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