Fried my start/kill switch? Help???
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Thread: Fried my start/kill switch? Help???

  1. #1
    Junior Member NoLimitBoy505's Avatar
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    Fried my start/kill switch? Help???

    I tried to wire the start/kill engine button myself but the button popped and smoked and now doesnt correctly “press”, did i fry my button? and do i have to buy a new one?
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  2. #2
    Senior Member reddave's Avatar
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    Set yourself some limits, boy! Electronics and smoke do not go hand-in-hand, something went very wrong. Looking at your picture - I highly advise you to acquire yourself a basic manual in electronics. Not one of those connections is done correctly...
    Edit - I came on pretty strong there, I'm sorry. But dude...
    Last edited by reddave; 09-14-2019 at 08:08 PM.
    1987 Yamaha TW200

  3. #3
    Junior Member NoLimitBoy505's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reddave View Post
    Set yourself some limits, boy! Electronics and smoke do not go hand-in-hand, something went very wrong. Looking at your picture - I highly advise you to acquire yourself a basic manual in electronics. Not one of those connections is done correctly...
    Yeah i know which i why i came to you guys to ask for help im not exactly a professional or even amateur, i asked for help earlier and no one replies anything even helpful so i just went for it \__( >.<)__/

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  5. #4
    Ken
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    My recommendation is to wire in the switch to your original wiring harness. It looks like you are running everything to ground on your exhaust. Use a manual as described above. The stock switch assembly is higher quality than any aftermarket one I have seen. I temporarily wired an ebay switch assembly to my bike. The wiring was different on the ebay switch assembly. What I did was disconnect the incorrect routed wires in the ebay switch from the connector. These are held in with a very small clip, usually a small paper clip or pin can be slid down the back side of the connector to dislodge it, then you can pull the wire free. You can then slide the wires to the correct slot as you wire things correctly. Only some of the wires were wrong so no need to disconnect all of them. A volt meter is also handy in figuring the wires out. If I recall correctly the connector for this is under the headlight bucket.
    1993 TW200 just over 46,000 miles

  6. #5
    GOF
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    Electrical and electronics actually run on smoke. Once you let the smoke out it doesn't work anymore.

    Have you got a wiring diagram? Some basic tools and a little care and you can figure out how something is supposed to work.

    https://tw200.org/manuals/tw200-servicemanual-1987.pdf
    Diagrams for newer bikes are at the end of the PDF.
    Ken likes this.
    1988 Suzuki Savage
    1987 Yamaha TW200
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  7. #6
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Is the red rocker button the run / kill switch and the gray push button on the bottom for the starter?

    Sounds to me your assessment of frying the button / switch is correct and you have to start over again with a new one.

    Why are you messing with it where you are and not up on the handlebar?
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  8. #7
    Senior Member TWBigBlake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GOF View Post
    Electrical and electronics actually run on smoke. Once you let the smoke out it doesn't work anymore.
    What he said.

    Also:

    Glarks 300pcs 22-16 / 16-14 / 12-10 Gauge Insulated Quick Splice Female / Male Bullet Crimp Terminals Connectors Assortment Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E5T81TI..._tICFDb7XPYYDP

    And

    Wire Terminal Crimper, BOSI TOOLS Insulated Ratcheting Terminals Crimper Kit, Insulated Butt Bullet Spade Fork Ring Crimp Terminals Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJ7JGG2..._KJCFDb7XWCWNN

    Get some bullets on them wires!

  9. #8
    Junior Member NoLimitBoy505's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken View Post
    My recommendation is to wire in the switch to your original wiring harness. It looks like you are running everything to ground on your exhaust. Use a manual as described above. The stock switch assembly is higher quality than any aftermarket one I have seen. I temporarily wired an ebay switch assembly to my bike. The wiring was different on the ebay switch assembly. What I did was disconnect the incorrect routed wires in the ebay switch from the connector. These are held in with a very small clip, usually a small paper clip or pin can be slid down the back side of the connector to dislodge it, then you can pull the wire free. You can then slide the wires to the correct slot as you wire things correctly. Only some of the wires were wrong so no need to disconnect all of them. A volt meter is also handy in figuring the wires out. If I recall correctly the connector for this is under the headlight bucket.
    Thank you!! This actually helps i may just buy a stock switch!

  10. #9
    Junior Member NoLimitBoy505's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elime View Post
    Is the red rocker button the run / kill switch and the gray push button on the bottom for the starter?

    Sounds to me your assessment of frying the button / switch is correct and you have to start over again with a new one.

    Why are you messing with it where you are and not up on the handlebar?
    Yes it is! & because i bought a completely new switch as the old one was broken but the guy who had it before me never correctly wired the switch to the solonoid!! so thats my problem i just want to properly wire it to the solonoid, like which wires go to which prongs you know?

  11. #10
    Junior Member NoLimitBoy505's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GOF View Post
    Electrical and electronics actually run on smoke. Once you let the smoke out it doesn't work anymore.

    Have you got a wiring diagram? Some basic tools and a little care and you can figure out how something is supposed to work.

    https://tw200.org/manuals/tw200-servicemanual-1987.pdf
    Diagrams for newer bikes are at the end of the PDF.
    Yes i have looked at diagrams but i swear i feel like they’re just never for my 2004 and it’s frustrating cuz i can barely read them aswell &#x1f61e;

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