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Thread: Valve Adjusting

  1. #1
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Once again I decided to adjust the valves on my TW to try to eliminate a horrible ticking sound. On the intake the .002 feeler gauge was loose, the .003 was snug, and the .004 was tight. I was in the ball park! Then I removed the feeler gauge and I put my finger on the rocker arm and it moved up and down somewhere between 1/32" and 1/64". Long story short I decided to take it apart and see what was going on.



    This is the adjusting screw. It is a little blurry but I think it shows that the end is fairly banged up and convex in shape.







    This is the end of the valve stem. Clearly it is concave. The feeler gauge was bridging the concavity giving a very false reading.







    The adjusting screw now sits deep in the lock nut. I think a new screw and valve are in order sometime in the near future. (The bummer is I just had the head off to replace the base gasket!)







    A human hair is .0025" in diameter. The minimum intake valve clearance is slightly less than the diameter of a human hair, .002". So the moral of the story is when done adjusting your valves give the rocker arm a little shake. If it moves more than a teeny tiny little bit something is wrong and it should be investigated.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  2. #2
    Senior Member jbfla's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip, Tony.



    I'm due for a valve adjustment, and will give he adjusting screw and valve stem a close inspection.



    How many miles are on your TW?



    Jb
    2018 Triumph Street Twin..............2016 CB500F
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  3. #3
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Great insight. Thanks for sharing this.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbfla View Post
    How many miles are on your TW?


    Just over 20,000 miles but that dang ticking has been going of for at least the last 10,000 miles.



    At first it wasn't so bad, I could adjust the valves and it would almost go away. As time went on no amount of valve adjusting, that is adjusting using a feeler gauge, did any good so I assumed it was something else. Then the other day I adjusted the valves once again, I removed the feeler gauge and wiggled the rocker arm and it moved a lot. I put the .003 feeler gauge back in and it didn't wiggle at all. The light bulb finally came on saying something was wrong. I took it apart and found what the pictures show. DUH! I wish I had figured it out a long time ago.



    Since the feeler gauge is pretty much useless with a concavity in the end of the valve I adjusted the clearance using the "feel" method. Simply I grabbed the rocker arm and wiggled it and could feel a teeny tiny bit of clearance. Remember the width of a hair is the minimum you need and I have at least that plus the loud TICK TICK TICK is gone so I feel good.



    Next step is buy a new valve, adjusting screw and head gasket and go at it. I sure wish I could reuse the head gasket. I hate paying another $17 for something I just installed last week during the base gasket replacement.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  6. #5
    Senior Member admiral's Avatar
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    So, the end of the adjuster (banged up end) and the top of the valve stem (concave end) should be flat with each other, and not concave/convex as shown in your pictures, correct?
    Hidden Content A ride in the woods helps me relax and release tension. The fact I'm dragging a body should be entirely irrelevant?

  7. #6
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by admiral View Post
    So, the end of the adjuster (banged up end) and the top of the valve stem (concave end) should be flat with each other, and not concave/convex as shown in your pictures, correct?


    The end of the valve should be flat and I am pretty sure the adjuster is slightly convex. When I get some new ones I will post pictures -- if I remember.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  8. #7
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    Just an FYI for anyone who comes across this:



    https://tw200forum.com/index.php?/top..._fromsearch__1



    If you find yourself with an adjuster screw that looks like its worn, REPLACE IT! (they're cheap!) The contact surface is clearly hardened, but the metal underneath does not appear to be, and once that hardened surface wears away, the job gets much more involved.. and the language in the shop more colorful.



    EDIT: modified advice, inspect very carefully. If both the screw and the valve are worn, you waited too long to adjust the valves, and you best plan for some time to replace both parts, and the requisite other pieces. Lest you end up in the same leaky boat Tony and I have been in!
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

  9. #8
    Senior Member old mad max's Avatar
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    This site just "ROCKS" Thanks guys............. What size is the locking nut? 10mm or 12mm....... OMM.

  10. #9
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    (poor) memory says 10mm
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

  11. #10
    Senior Member stephenmarklay's Avatar
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    Reminds me I need to do this job. Are there any special tools needed?
    2011 TW200: Protaper Fat Bars, IMS Pegs, Cyclerack, Moose Racing Tail Bag, Cyrca Handguards, VStrom Mirrors, Jimbo Shield, Oxford Heated Grips, ProCycle 15k spring, 2x2cycles rack, seat concepts, Cyclops Adventure Sports LED conversion

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