shifting 1st to 2nd hitting neutral (and CDI issue?)
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Thread: shifting 1st to 2nd hitting neutral (and CDI issue?)

  1. #1
    Junior Member yiotta's Avatar
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    shifting 1st to 2nd hitting neutral (and CDI issue?)

    Background
    my 1997 TW200 was on loan to a friend and I just got it back with 1300 miles. Changed the battery, changed oil/filter, new plug and rebuilt the carb, Got the bike running beautifully. But, my daily commuter bike (also antique, 2000 Aprilia Pegaso 650 carb w/ 40K miles) was running great but now i think I have a blown head gasket (coolant in reservoir wont suck back into radiator. I have to do a pressure test). Anyways, TW was put into service as my commuter 30 mile highway...YIKES. I put on the Jimbo Shield and a 44 tooth rear sprocket. Bike again was providing great service. Until 3300 miles.

    CDI Problem: All of a sudden after 3 weeks of reliable commuting at 70MPH (while in a speedway tuck) the bike is now cutting out on me at highway speeds...enough to need a diaper change a couple of times.

    I was interested in the Waterloo CDI unit anyways (I want to get a tach on the bike) so I just bought that and I hope that the CDI is all my cut out issue is.

    Anyways, I know that the TW isn't for the Interstate, especially an older one like mine with dual drum brakes, but the lil beast with the 44 tooth is doing great at 65/70. Engine not straining at all.

    Shifting Problem:

    Almost coinciding with the cutting out is my inability to reliably find 2nd gear. I first noticed it when taking left hand turns from a stop while at a sign or light. NOT GOOD...I'm gonna get rear ended by a distracted or aggressive driver. I rev up to around 15 MPH for a 2nd gear shift and WAAAAAA, neutral screaming at me. To make it worse, it won't go into either first or second till I stop. Now, it happens when I pull straight away and even after stopping I cannot get the bike reliably into first or second. Once into second though, 3rd,4th, 5th are all butter like before. It is only 1st and second gear. Regarding my oil change, I used Mobil1 10w40 Racing 4T as it was readily available at WallyWorld.

    Edit: I should note that the stock gear lever was bent so I replaced it with an IMS folding lever and I also replaced the stock footpegs with IMS Super Stocks. Bike was working perfectly for 1500 miles after these mods so I doubt it is related.

    So, I made it home yesterday, changed my dirty diaper, parked the TW. The Waterloo CDI unit from cdiparts.com should get to me early next week so I'll update as I get them. In the meantime, I'd be interested in hearing from others that may have had these issues and what their resolution was.
    Last edited by yiotta; 09-29-2019 at 10:47 AM. Reason: added in new shifter and footpegs
    1998 TW200 Drum Brakes: Ricochett: Skid, IMS: folding shifter and footpegs, Tusk: rear rack, Pro Hand Guards, Muffs, Handster 10w Cree LED AUX lights, JNS LED Headlight (Black), BRE Universal Slider rack, Pelican Case1550, Jimbo Shield Neon Edge Light Blue, CDI-parts CDI, DID 428V o-ring chain, handwarmers planned

  2. #2
    Senior Member MtnMan75's Avatar
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    Not to ask the obvious, but you have double checked your clutch is disengaging fully? 3rd, 4th, and 5th are hit easily with minimal expansion of the clutch plates compared to 1st and 2nd, so it may be a place to start looking. Then check the shift shaft for any bending by using a straight edge along the side of the shift lever and pushing it up and down to see if it stays square. Barring that, the next place to look unfortunately would be for wear on the shift cam and associated forks and/or the mating surfaces of first and second. The comment about it being noticeable first on left tilts would lead me to believe you have wear on the internals but you won't know what until you tear it down. Just standing still I'd see if shifting is different with a hard tilt to the right compared to left while rocking it back and forth. Shouldn't really matter one side to the other unless something is worn down. I'd also do an oil change to inspect the oil for more than normal wear.
    Purple likes this.
    2013 TW200 "Timba Wattla"
    2013 DRZ400S
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  3. #3
    Junior Member yiotta's Avatar
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    Thx mtnman75.
    Bike doesn't even have 3k miles on it yet. I will check out clutch cable adjustment. Because all other gears are buttery smooth i didn't think I should mess with it.

    It's interesting you mention tilting bike side to side because it first started happening taking left turns after stopping.

    I also read here on another post that chain tension can cause poor shifting as well. I just adjusted it after removing 2 links to fit the 44 tooth rear sprocket, checking in several places. I will likely spring for a did o-ring chain shortly so I don't prematurely kill my sprockets.

    The Waterloo CDI is On its way.
    MtnMan75 likes this.
    1998 TW200 Drum Brakes: Ricochett: Skid, IMS: folding shifter and footpegs, Tusk: rear rack, Pro Hand Guards, Muffs, Handster 10w Cree LED AUX lights, JNS LED Headlight (Black), BRE Universal Slider rack, Pelican Case1550, Jimbo Shield Neon Edge Light Blue, CDI-parts CDI, DID 428V o-ring chain, handwarmers planned

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  5. #4
    Super Moderator Purple's Avatar
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    Typical of many motorcycles, first gear, neutral and second can be a bit “cranky”. A combination of revs, boot, and rolling the bike can solve first, neutral is mostly boot flex and luck, whilst second is largely to do with rev range – no two bikes are the same, no two “boots” are the same, and no two clutches or gear boxes behave in the same manner. Then add clutch adjustment and chain tension to that, and you can see where this is going

    I have the ’98, and it can get cranky at times, which I put down in my case to “rider control” – sometimes instinct can be counter-acted by complacency, new boots, shift lever etc – you never really know (in my case anyway)

    Your case may be “rider error”, or any of the mechanical matters mentioned in MtnMan’s comprehensive post above – but I would take a look at any recent changes on your bike first, as a ’97 with 3k is not exactly prone to this behaviour (at least before tearing the engine apart). But as he so aptly says, 3,4 and 5th are very different from 1, N, and second

    “Waterloo CDI” is presumably one of Tom Bauers, and if so, come highly recommended - It will be interesting to hear how you get on ……
    MtnMan75 likes this.
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  6. #5
    Junior Member yiotta's Avatar
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    Thanks Purple! Here's my current situation...HAPPY TeeDubber again!

    RE: CDI/cutting out
    It turns out, my '97 is actually a '98. I ordered one of Tom's '97 CDIs and the wiring was not plug and play. I sent him pictures and my VIN and he said I must have a '98 TeeDub.
    I ordered a '98 from Tom CDIparts, it was indeed plug and play and it works great! I am back on the road with multiply layers of clothing now as it has been below 50 F in the AM here in NH.

    RE: Shifting
    Apparently, the shift lever position on the shift shaft makes all the difference in my situation. I had bent the crap out of my stock shift lever so I replaced it with a IMS folding lever recently and it had been working fine. Then, I began to have shifting problems. I checked the clutch cable and it was a little out of spec so I corrected the free play but the problem continued. I also checked my chain play (stock) and it was good. On a whim, I loosened up the shift lever retaining bolt, pulled the lever off the shaft and at first tried to raise it up a notch but that would have been wayyyyy to high. So I went down a notch, installed the lever and went for a ride. What do you know...The bike shifts great again! No missed shifts. It amazes me that just moving the lever up/down one notch at the shaft moves toe piece of the shift lever such a great distance.

    I ride in hiking boots as I do not have moto boots any more. But, I almost had a severe offroad incident the other day and was reminded how critical a piece of equipment those boots are for off roading. I stupidly tried to ride over a few sequential, downed !8" trees. I cleaned the first two then ended up wheeling on the last one and smashed my shin in to my new footpegs that opened my shin up pretty good...right where the knee high boots would have had a hard, plastic guard! So, a pair of moto boots are on my Christmas list because I know I'll be getting into similar situations in the future.

    Next up, I bought a 428V O-ring chain and I'll be breaking the stock chain, wiring the new chain to it, pull it through/around the front sprocket and installing the master link. I don't want to pull the casing off if I don't have to as I am not changing the stock front sprocket.
    Last edited by yiotta; 10-11-2019 at 12:10 PM. Reason: chain is 428v o-ring, not a vx x-ring
    1998 TW200 Drum Brakes: Ricochett: Skid, IMS: folding shifter and footpegs, Tusk: rear rack, Pro Hand Guards, Muffs, Handster 10w Cree LED AUX lights, JNS LED Headlight (Black), BRE Universal Slider rack, Pelican Case1550, Jimbo Shield Neon Edge Light Blue, CDI-parts CDI, DID 428V o-ring chain, handwarmers planned

  7. #6
    Senior Member grewen's Avatar
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    when i was having shifting problems, it turned out to be my boots, i had to adjust the shift lever to work with my new boots
    Greg

    2019 honda cb500x
    2018 honda grom
    2018 suzuki dr200

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