Why do you ask? Mounting options? Voltage requirements?
Have anyone used the KC Flex led lights on there tw?
Why do you ask? Mounting options? Voltage requirements?
Would like to know if one is enough for light or should i go for two? Can it even handle two of them?
When looking for off-road accessory lights for my 2019 JLU I knew I'd be getting KC's. Have always had them on all 4 of my previous Jeeps.
This time I went LED and as usual KC offered almost too many options, finally debating between the Flex Lites and the C3's. They are vey close in performance but the Flex one's can be expanded to to two or really as many individual lights side-by-side or even stacked on top of each other as you want. They do look kinda cool too in a caterpillar-type of way.
The C3's (3 inch) were more traditional and I wasn't looking for light-bar options either. Something you certainly don't need the flexibility (thus "Flex") on a motorcycle, especially at one like a TW.
About the same performance but the styling and flexibility of the "Flex" type were $100.00 more. At $150 for the C3's and $250 for the "Flex" neither is particularly inexpensive.
I'm quoting Quardratec prices by the way.
Paying for the name, maybe? But other than the actual mounts both come with plug-and-play harness's and on/off switches (for the interior of a vehicle, not waterproof) that are extremely seamless. You'll be buying those in the kits too though they won't be plug-and-play on a bike.
I'd go with the C3's on any vehicle unless you are a hard-core-I-actually-live-in-Moad person. They are actually TOO bright to use on the road despite their tiny size. And I have the "driving light" version.
Off-Road you might as well shut your headlights off, you won't need them. Problem using them is that you can get "blinded" to everything else around you so I use them sparingly.
My personal opinion... go to Twisted Throttle or Revzilla or JP Cycles, etc. and get a pair of LED's made for a motorcycle. They might even have these two with the proper hook-ups for a bike?
But both the Flex & C3's might be a bit overkill on a bike whether you are using them for primary lighting or accessory light.
I could see them on a big BMW GS or a huge Honda Africa Twin... on an engine guard. They ain't exactly small even at 3 inches:
Mounts do not come with the kits, just a switch and the harness's. The light kit was cheaper at Quadratec but the "A-Pillar" mounts were cheaper on Amazon:
I'm glad I got them but yeah, almost ridiculously too bright even on a big JLU Jeep Pig:
2008 Vespa 150"S" (Elec & Kick Start)
2007 Ural Patrol (2WD, Elec & Kick Start)
2006 Yamaha TW200 (Elec & Kick Start)
1995 BMW K75 (Elec Start)
1991 Honda XR250L (Kick Start Only)
1986 Yamaha BW200ES (Elec & Kick Start)
1969 BMW r60/2, US Model (Kick Start Only)
At only 10 watts each with a nominal one amp draw your TW should easily power up a pair if it is one of the new models. All TWs, especially older 35 watt headlight drum brake equipped models would benefit from a LED H4 replacement as well as LED tail & marker light bulb replacement to free up wattage. ( those OEM indancescent 1056 bulbs draw 1.4 amps, or 17 watts each!).
At under 1000 lumens each for the KC lights you should decide just how much additional lighting, and for what use, you desire. I off-road trail ride so run 5,000 to 7,000 lumen output generated by 40 watts of LED pods with 35 & 55 watt H4 LED headlight bulbs on the two TWs. This is not too much light by any means when it comes to identifying obstacles and turn options in advance. Plus the total all up investment is under $60 per bike including shipping, lights, mounting ,switch & wiring.
The KC lights are quality made seemingly designed for rigid mounting on Jeeps and the like. As such their perhaps overly stout mounting brackets will not bend and absorb impact energy in a tip over on a motorcycle. That destructive energy has to go somewhere and I fear the weak link on those $100 items would show up as a fatal fracture at mounting bolts on the aluminum housing. If I were to invest that much in lighting I would build in a sacrificial energy absorber either in the bracket-to-light, or bracket-to-bike connection. My pod lights have thinner ductile steel brackets that I can readily re-bend/ hammer back into shape after the occasional impact.
Last edited by Fred; 11-05-2019 at 10:46 AM.
However many you get I believe the lighting improvement will be both entertain and satisfy. Here is brief night ride next to a buddy's halogen equipped KLX, highlights some of the color and intensity differences between the cooler 3500 degree Kelvin halogens and 5000 degree Kelvin LED black body radiation..
Thx for the great info guys! Im gonna be running alot of min maintenance roads at night and we have lots of wildlife running around here in ks. What light would you put in a 2019 tdub that has a good wide angle of light but also some distance?
Others may have better ideas but these are the under $25/pair pod lights that create the sole illumination seen in last 10 seconds or so of the above video....bolted directly to lower fork clamps. I reach forward and adjust them on the fly for longer or shorter range lighting as desired. There are certainly many more expensive options out there but my experience with the chip sets in these is that they deliver the best concentrated lighting for long range illumination that I have seen in both flashlights and off-road lights. These compliment an under $25 35 watt LED H4 replacement headlight bulb that creates the wider close-in illumination. A lot of folks have been installing the JNS complete headlight plus reflector combination instead. Unfortunately for comparison purposes no one that I am aware of has published photos or video of the JNS's illumination in the real world, just under city lights or in a garage. Riding behind one I got the impression the JNS was not too overly intense so as to not be acceptable for urban operation.kLum94rsQjq1uUE+WZuIgQ_thumb_2fc1.jpg
Last edited by Fred; 11-05-2019 at 04:04 PM.