I have a 95 that I have had with me for some years. It has always had a purge, that is going along just fine at a constant rate, but would cut out a bit. When getting on it not a miss.
Just replaced the intake boot on the cylinder, put it back on thinking that was the issue. Still will not start. Took it apart again, seemed a clogged needle valve, as there was no gas in the bowl. Cleared that, put it back in still no start. Checked spark, plenty.
Anyone else have one of these older carbs that can give me any ideas, I would be grateful. I will be taking it apart tomorrow again and will get the aircompressor fired up. Such a pain to take one out of the bike due to the way the cables are hooked up, thanks.
1993 TW200 just over 46,000 miles
If you open the drain screw at bottom of the bowl, does fuel drain out? Easy way to make sure float/needle valve is clear and petcock is working.
Last edited by Scooterbrained; 11-17-2019 at 10:18 PM.
'16 Yamaha TW200 '08 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad '07 Kawasaki KLX250 '93 BMW R100GS Bumblebee (Mothballed)
'99 Tacoma SR5 4WD '58 Willys CJ5 '90's Honda 4514 hydro riding mower '90's Honda 5013 compact tractor 4WD & 4W Steering
On my carb, California mod. carb, seems like there was a small freeze plug / cover over the pilot jet screw. If you have that, pull that plug, remove that pilot jet screw & clean in there real good. It sure helped my bike. That jet can really influence the low end to mid range performance.
Also try putting a small spray of starting fluid into the air cleaner box before you pull the carb off tomorrow, just to confirm that it's a fuel problem. m.
Here's a good read done by qwerty years ago.
It helped me zero in on my carb, I did change to a #118 jet, and shimmed the needle. I opened the pilot jet screw aprox. 2 turns.
This in my case helped, and my bike runs very well at around the same elevations you ride at. (sea level to 5k ft.)
Hope this helps. m.
Once the carb is back on the bike, & the bike is running, that pilot jet screw can be tough to get to...
Here is some advice from the legendary "Lizdbrth" :
"Some guys use a bit from a 4-way screwdriver, shorten the handle on a stubby screwdriver, etc.
Your pilot circuit is open 24/7, so ta speak, so it's a component of your total fuel volume at w.o.t.
That's why it's so important. If your pilot circuit is lean or rich the cumulative effect of whatever main jet you install will be leaner or richer accordingly. Hope that makes sense."
Hope some of this helps. m.
I really like my mod to the idle mixture screw. Drilled it and soldered a 1/16" Allen wrench to it. That hangs down enough so I can adjust the mixture without tools and I can keep track of turns by being able to see where the end is pointed.
In your case I would make sure the pilot jet is not clogged. That's a small hole and it easily plugs up. If you find it closed, I'd recommend getting one or two steps bigger from jets r us and you'll have an easier time dialing it in correctly.
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Took the carb off again after clearing the needle valve. It was restricted so figured that was it. So pulled it off and took every screw out of it. Used my torch tip cleaners to make sure those small orifices were open. Put it all back together and it fired up at the touch of the starter. All is good.
Thanks to all for thei input.
Dumb question for you plumb: I’m up in Maine and put the girl away for the winter with a battery tender. Do you think I should run the fuel out? I was thinking I would set fuel to off and run her until she sputters out. Never having had a motorcycle wasn’t sure this was necessary. Any advice would be appreciated.