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Thread: Trail Jack

  1. #1
    Senior Member r80rt's Avatar
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    I've had a couple of flats on the rear in the last year so I got serious about being able to fix them. First you need real automotive patches and glue, not scabs or bicycle stuff, And learn how to properly use them. I also carry a small 2oz bottle of real tire lube, Ru-Glyde, not soapy water, it just works better. A small bottle of baby powder to put on the tube to keep it from folding in the tire when airing up. A rear tire can be broken down by using just three levers, I practiced on my spare rear wheel, and the spare tire on my truck. It can be done, it's not as difficult as you might think. It only took about 10 minutes to break the bead with this method.

    http://www.dualsportbc.com/forums/sh...st-tire-levers



    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458452



    http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/the...tuff-3424.html



    You also need to prop the bike up to work on it. Get the axle nut loose before you start, if you are raising the rear use a zip tie to hold the front brake, and a tie down strap from the front tire back to the kick stand, to keep the bike from rolling off the stand. This jack is made from a piece of Re-bar, the straight rod is 14 1/2 inches long. The little tail on top goes in a hole I drilled in the bash plate and the "cup" goes under the frame cross member behind the foot peg. I carry it out of the way on the handlebars, and one of my saddlebags is devoted to flat fixing tools. A flat tire is a fact of life that no solo explorer can ignore. Take the time to learn how to repair a puncture, and the nightmare becomes a 45 minute inconvenience. You WILL have a flat in a desolate place, you WON'T have phone service, be prepaired for it.



    Kinda hard to see, but here it is on the bars.

















    Tie back the front brake to keep the wheel from rolling.



    A strap from the front wheel to the kick stand to lock it in place.

    Only a fool would attempt it, and God help me, I am that fool!

  2. #2
    Senior Member joeband's Avatar
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    three points makes a stool.... very clever!
    1994 TW226- 6spd. 10w-40 synthetic, XTHidden Content , XT225 stainless header, +2" Joemama swingarm, lizrd cooler, +20% fork springs, +25% rear spring, 2001 speedo w/ trip odo, pro taper atv bars, bark busters, shinko 241 front tire, front fender w/ mr bracket bracket, Hidden Content , o-ring chain, ricochet skid plate, Hidden Content , XT225 rear brake cam lever, folding-tip shifter, cycle rack, kolpin 1.5 aux tank & 1450 pelican case. Hidden Content or Hidden Content

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  3. #3
    Senior Member Tirebiter's Avatar
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    Thank you for the tire changing links. I like the jack and will probably copy it if that's ok. I'm thinking about making one very similar to yours out of two shorter pieces of threaded rod joined with a coupling nut so I can break it down and stow in a tool tube if possible.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member r80rt's Avatar
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    Copy away, the idea isn't new, I stole it myself. I will take credit for drilling a hole in the bash plate for lifting the front though. I thought about making it two piece, but figured I lose half of it.
    Only a fool would attempt it, and God help me, I am that fool!

  6. #5
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
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    Took me awhile to remember where I saw something like this before.... http://tw200forum.co...594-the-crutch/ & http://tw200forum.co...ce-crutch-jack/























    I think I have an old crutch set in the attic......
    Fred likes this.


  7. #6
    Senior Member r80rt's Avatar
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    Yeah, I've seen several versions of a trail jack, and those crutches are great designs, they helped inspire me to make one. I looked at a lot of different one's trying to decide what I needed. I wanted mine to be as simple as possible with no moving parts, nothing to lose, and one length that would raise either end. I also didn't want it close to the axles, so it wouldn't be in the way while working.
    Only a fool would attempt it, and God help me, I am that fool!

  8. #7
    Moderator vuldub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by r80rt View Post
    A rear tire can be broken down by using just three levers,
    Dang, I've only been using two these years!



    A tip to offer that isn't shown in the links: to break the bead, insert the tire iron between the tire and the rim and twist the tire iron. Use the second iron the same way. Kneeling on the tire will assist in breaking the bead. It the bead is welded on by years of oxidation and you aren't out in the boonies, take a 4' length of 2x4, wedge one end under the tire of your car, put a small scrap 2x4 between the bottom of the longer 2x4 and the on top the tire near the rim (wheel laying flat on ground) and leverage the longer 2x4 down. The fulcrum point should press the bead down.



    Last tip. Be sure to slightly inflate the tube before reinstalling it as this will prevent pinching.
    Regards...Wes
    In the Stable: 73 Honda CT90,81 Honda CT110,81 Honda CT70,04 Yamaha TW200,07 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500

  9. #8
    Moderator vuldub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    --------

    That's Gerry's (Mr Gizmow) invention!!

    I have one and it works great on several of my bikes.
    Regards...Wes
    In the Stable: 73 Honda CT90,81 Honda CT110,81 Honda CT70,04 Yamaha TW200,07 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500

  10. #9
    Moderator vuldub's Avatar
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    I do like your rebar support - its more trail sized.
    Regards...Wes
    In the Stable: 73 Honda CT90,81 Honda CT110,81 Honda CT70,04 Yamaha TW200,07 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500

  11. #10
    Senior Member Vagabond's Avatar
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    Something seems to have happened to the original photos in the first post- they aren't there. Any ideas why? It's time I built a jack!!
    2004 T-dub, 15/50-68 dual sprocket, modded carb, kickstart, weldment footpegs, EK o-ring chain, Shinko 241 front tire, Duro PG rear, Ride-on seal/balance f&r, Pro Taper bars w/ PG grips, folding mirrors, XT350 tank, f&r Cycleracks, Saddlemens gel seat insert, VisionX LED driving lights, TCI pan/guards, 230cc six speed engine/trans, Jimbo Shield (smoke); ongoing monkeyshinin'

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