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Thread: Fork Stiction

  1. #1
    Member ebikerman's Avatar
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    I have a '06 TW with 1175 miles on it. The off road ride is terrible, beating me mercilessly (15lb air pressure). The forks do not move very much when riding. Sitting still with the front brake on, the forks move much more. We have changed the fork oil to 5wt in hopes of fixing the problem with only little improvement. There is a lot of stiction. I noticed in another thread that someone had added Slick 50 to their fork oil. Wonder what effect that or STP in a small amount would have. We already found that the rear shock does have a 3 position adjustment which we took advantage of. Not much difference when adjusted to the softest. Shock must be removed for that adjustment. The problem is the front. It did not bump as bad when running 10lbs air, but would like to get the forks moving correctly. Need help to soften it considerably. Any other suggestions? THANKS

  2. #2
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    How much oil is in your forks?



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
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    My 2009 suspension was way too soft for my 215lb frame



    At a standstill I could hop up and down and bottom out the front end. The forks only have 6.3 inches of travel.



    I recently installed stiffer springs in my forks cause they moved too much, I hate bottoming out the front end.



    Procycle has lots of goodies











    Did you fix the groaning sound you described in your last post? http://tw200forum.co...sion-too-stiff/











    More great TW fork reading and troubleshooting tips http://tw200.wiki-si...ront_Suspension



    Tips from that Wiki



    Jack bike up so there's no weight on the front wheel. Zip a ziptie around the fork leg below the lower triple tree. Slide it down the leg til it rests on the fork seal.

    I usually remove the boot from one leg because this takes awhile to accomplish and the ziptie is easier to see without it. Leave the ziptie on til your fork is completely set up, even if it takes a month..Stand the bike up under its own weight. The forks should drop slightly. That's your static sag. Not super important right now, but there may be as much as 1/2".

    Now get someone to hold the back of the bike vertical while you put both feet on the pegs and your hands on the grips. The front end should drop further.

    The ziptie will slide up the leg and mark the travel. You can do this solo if you park next to a wall and slowly push yourself vertical with one hand on the wall. You want to do this in a controlled manner so you don't get a false measurement. Do it a few times to verify the measurement. Lift the front end off the ground. The difference in the measurement between the bottom of the ziptie and the fork seal is your laden sag. We have 6" of available travel. Most street riders allow 30% of total travel for sag. 20% is bare minimum, 25 is generally accepted as resonable for offroad and dualsport bikes.


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  5. #4
    Member ebikerman's Avatar
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    My problem is that the forks are way too stiff or are sticky which seems to be the problem. Even sitting still with the front brake on the forks stick when trying to move them up and down. The Motorcycle mechanic supposedly put the same amt of oil back in, but 5wt instead of 10wt. I don't really know. How would some Slick 50 added do? I wish these forks were musshy. I am not a very agressive rider, just want a better ride.



    Thanks for any help....Dan



    PS....The groan was fixed when we finally got lube in the swing arm bushings.

  6. #5
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan P View Post
    PS....The groan was fixed when we finally got lube in the swing arm bushings.


    That was easy, no?



    Now check your fork oil level. You've got 5W oil in them. If the oil level were right they'd move like a big dog. Slick 50 won't change that.



    If they won't, there's something wrong with them. Simple as that. The oil level is too high, the lowers are full of solids, the holes in the tubes have rusted closed or are full of gack, some PO put spacers in them which were too long, or the sliders are worn and they're metal-on-metal.



    Or it could be your expectations. In practical terms these forks only have 5" of travel. If you run them too "mushy" they will bottom, usually breaking the fender.



    Look over the manual's procedure for checking the fork oil level. If you feel confident in doing it yourself you can at least rule the simplest possibilty in or out. Too much oil and they won't move. Too little and the slider bushings will run dry and you'll get stiction, even if the seals are good. Check the simple stuff first.



    I run Slick 50 in my forks oil. It may have been my post that your read. But I only do it in an effort to reduce wear on the lowers over time, not to reduce stiction or bandaid an actual problem within the forks. Just an experiment, really.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  7. #6
    Member ebikerman's Avatar
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    lizrdbrth, Thanks a lot. I have something to work with now. My mechanic is an experienced mechanic, formerly a Yamaha dealer. He is also a personal friend as was his dad who first had the dealership. I don't think he would screw up the oil level. The bike is an '06 and only had about 900 miles on it at the time of fork oil change. My bike does have fork drain holes hidden by the front axle. Another motorcycle mechanic friend is going to work on the forks tomorrow. We will see what he finds. Will consider what you told me as he works with me watching. I wish my bike would use those 5" of travel you mentioned. I can activate much of that travel sitting still with the brake on, but is is sticky. Another friend has a new TW that does not have sticky forks. Thanks again, will report tomorrows findings and results.

  8. #7
    Senior Member rm_hm's Avatar
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    Almost been a year. I guess we'll never know if it got fixed.


  9. #8
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
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    I was going to. suggest loosening fender bracket and retesting for stiction as misalignment of metal cross fork/fender brace can cause stiction. I followed the Lizrdbrth recommendations on fork set up and am very pleased with result.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Tirebiter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rm_hm View Post
    Almost been a year. I guess we'll never know if it got fixed.
    rm hm, I like how you get after us when we don't follow up to let other members know what works and doesn't. Keep it up, someone has to keep us on the straight and narrow.

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