Does anyone know how to change them? Any advice?
Is there a tutorial on fork seals any where?
How about a part #'s needed list.
For 1997 model
19 22Wâˆ’23153âˆ’L0 ..RING, SNAP 2 needed May be reused.
20 22Wâˆ’23145âˆ’L0 ..OIL SEAL 2 needed This is the actual oil seal.
21 51Yâˆ’23125âˆ’00 ..METAL, SLIDE 2 needed Wear item, smart to replace if worn.
22 54Gâˆ’23144âˆ’00 ..SEAL, DUST 2 needed This is the dust seal that protects the oil seal from grinding away.
The following parts are the boots on the forks. It is smart top replace them, but they usually go bad before the oil seals do, anyway. You can use generics that attach with zipties and save some money.
36 4CSâˆ’23191âˆ’20 BOOT 2 needed
37 2K5âˆ’23192âˆ’00 BAND 2 needed
38 1W4âˆ’23194âˆ’L0 SCREW, BOOT BAND 2 needed
For later models the part numbers are all the same except there is a -00 suffix added to each.
www.stadiumyamaha.com has a quick and easy parts look-up, good prices, and only charges internet buyers actual shipping costs.
Install instructions begin on page 6-12 of the shop manual and page 62 of the late model supplement, both of which you can download for free from this site. I'll leave it to others to explain how they got around spending the big bucks for Yamaha special tools as Tdub's forks have never needed work.
Awesome! Thanks qwerty!
Now I'm only concerned that my new to me bike has slightly bent forks.
Slightly bent forks are easy to straighten with a hydraulic press and V-blocks. I've also straightened forks with a 2x4 blocks and a bottle jack under a pickup.
You can roll a bent fork tube on a smooth, hard, flat surface, and the high spot will be plenty obvious. Mark the spot with a Sharpie. Support the fork on a pair of wood blocks equal distance on each side of the high spot. Rotate the fork tube so the hich spot is straight up. Place a block of wood on the high spot, then the jack, under a very heavy object. Last time I did this I used a John Deere 9630. Slowly jack the jack. Stop frequently to check how the repair is going. It is very easy to bend a tube too much.
In the field I've straightened a bent fork enough to get home by resting a tube with the high spot between two logs, then smacking it with another chunk of log. Not recommended.
What can I use to hold the damper or whatever it's called under the spring so I can remove the bolt from the bottom?
I'm not really sure as my forks are still going strong at 44XXX miles.
You'll need to fashion a tool to hold the inner tubes, which is basically a long allen wrench. I made one out if 1/2" tubing and a bolt with a 17mm head on it. Put the threaded part in the end of the tubing and either weld it or drill through the tubing and the bolt and put a screw or cotter key through it.
Mine has a bolt welded on both ends so I can hold it with a ratchet, and about 30" long as it shares the same sizing as the legs on several of my other bikes. In a pinch you could just hold the end with some vise grips or something. If you shove the lowers all the way up with the axle removed this will shorten the length you need for your tool if you're just cobbling together a temporary one.
Inside your fork you'll find an aluminum "cup" that the south end of the damper fits into. I find it helpful to put a wire coathanger through the lower leg's allen bolt hole when reassembling the fork, then thread the cup and damper on it to help with aligning the damper and spacer holes.
Make darn sure you locktight (blue) the allen bolt and torque it down properly when you re-assemble your fork, or it'll leak.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.
Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.