Valve Adjusting Some More
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  1. #1
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    First, I use the mark on the cam sprocket to adjust the valves. The cover is held on with two bolts so it is easy to remove and replace and the timing mark is easy to see. Very easy to see. You get it right the first time every time! No little "T" to look for. No bending over with a flash light looking in a small hole. The sprocket turns the same way the wheels do so just put the bike in gear and gently push it / bump it in the right direction to align the sprocket mark and the casting mark. Between 11:30 and 12:30 is fine but I try to nail it right at 12:00. A teeny bit off is no problem.







    I was trying to check my work with the feeler gauge and had an idea to use a dial indicator. With it I measured the exhaust valve clearance to be .0045". The dial indicator also eliminates the affect of a concavity at the end of the valve stem that can be bridged with a feeler gauge giving a false reading. I have experience with that.

    I





    Pushing up on the rocker;







    I moved the rocker up and down several times and got the exact same results -- .0045" clearance.



    I repeated the procedure on the intake valve but there is glare on the dial indicator face and it is difficult to read but it measured .0025". With both valves I took the feeler gauges and measured the clearance so I can tell what it feels like -- the amount of drag there is -- while setting the clearance using that method



    If I erred in my method please tell me. Overall I think using the dial indicator is a very accurate way to set the valve clearance -- maybe a lot more accurate than it has to be but one I have great confidence in.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  2. #2
    Junior Member gussy78's Avatar
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    Thanks Tony. Coming from somone who is a noob and about to attempt adjusting his valves. The cover only has two screws, but no gasket?
    '89 TW dark on light blue

  3. #3
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gussy78 View Post
    Thanks Tony. Coming from somone who is a noob and about to attempt adjusting his valves. The cover only has two screws, but no gasket?


    Like all the screws on the TW those two screws can be quite tight and difficult to remove the first time. Replace them with bolts and flat washers and it becomes non-issue.



    There is a big o-ring gasket on the sprocket cover. as well as the two valve covers. As long as the rubber is above the metal, and you can tell by gently rubbing your finger across it, you will be OK. If the rubber is the same level as the metal, as in the o-ring goes flat, then it has to be replaced.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

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  5. #4
    Member MTLHead's Avatar
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    Good stuff Tony! That seems like an awesome method to get extremely accurate clearance measurements! Are you using the magnetic base on your dial?

  6. #5
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSRockr View Post
    Good stuff Tony! That seems like an awesome method to get extremely accurate clearance measurements! Are you using the magnetic base on your dial?


    Thanks. The base is magnetic and is on the frame but I also took some plastic tie wraps and made sure it didn't fall off.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  7. #6
    Junior Member gussy78's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony View Post
    Like all the screws on the TW those two screws can be quite tight and difficult to remove the first time. Replace them with bolts and flat washers and it becomes non-issue.



    There is a big o-ring gasket on the sprocket cover. as well as the two valve covers. As long as the rubber is above the metal, and you can tell by gently rubbing your finger across it, you will be OK. If the rubber is the same level as the metal, as in the o-ring goes flat, then it has to be replaced.
    Thanks again Tony, as its all relevant once my new gaskets get here.
    '89 TW dark on light blue

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