Cam Chain Guide Replacemenet
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  1. #1
    Senior Member thumper's Avatar
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    When I replaced the base gasket on my 08 TW200 at 6k miles, I discovered the cam chain guide was pretty chewed up!

    It was through the buffer material and starting to touch metal. It was also throwing bits of hard black plastic debris into the motor.

    I was hoping it was a quality control problem with just my bike.

    Well tonight I tore down the wife's 08 to replace the gaskets, piston/rings, and check the cam chain guide...

    It also has approximately 6k (6000) miles on it too. You know what I found? The same damn thing!

    Now its got me wondering and a little bit concerned! Am I gonna have to tear the engine down every 6K miles to replace the guide?

    The service manual states that I have to remove the Head and the Sprocket to remove/replace the cam chain guide. But if

    I have to remove the head bolts, I'm thinking, I'll have to replace all the gaskets and stuff again, every 6K miles!

    Does anyone out there know of any other way to remove or replace this part without taking the head off?

    Seems to me, you could remove the left side cover(s) hold the CDI unit with a sheave holder, break the cam chain nut free,

    tie the chain up out of the way, remove the sprocket, move the chain over to the side, pull the CDI off, remove the woodruff key, remove

    the gear, undo the two bolts and wiggle it out the bottom????

    Would I then be able to simply wiggle it back up into the cylinder? Anyone know if theres enough room?

    I love these little bikes, it just seems like alot of work every 3 months!

    Any advice or suggestions welcome.

    Igofar

  2. #2
    Senior Member sinophilia's Avatar
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    Hi igofar, first of all, I really don't think you need to replace the chain guides so often if the engine runs fine. True, distribution seems to be the weak point of the TW, but it should be okay until at least 15,000 miles. You might want to check your chain tensioner (even if it's the automatic one).



    Then, you don't need to take the head off to replace the guides, but you must take down the rotor. I had the Yamaha dealer change the right chain guide only because I didn't have the tools to take down the rotor, but it's actually pretty easy and it can be done using the rear wheel axle. It's all in the repair manual! Check it out.
    Red Max - 1996 TW200 - 14/45, 320mm toothed brake disc, X-Racing titanium exhaust, Ricochet skid plate, Mule hitch pins, large pegs, VeeRubber VRM274&275 tires

  3. #3
    Senior Member thumper's Avatar
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    Has anyone on this forum replaced the cam chain guide yet?

    Did you have to remove the head?

    Just looking for shortcuts.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    I've only done the guide during a teardown. But I can tell you that it's easier to remove the rotor ahead of time when the chain is on the bike. Put it in high gear, grab the brake and bust it loose. Much easier with a shorter breaker bolt or the proper tool than an axle bolt, but either will work.



    I've boogered up a couple of axles doing this, so if you have a die of the proper size I'd recomend threading it on the axle beforehand. If you booger it up you can chase the threads with the die.



    Go through your toolbox. I found that a few of my pitman arm pullers and 3 arm pullers have the same thread on their bolts.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  6. #5
    Senior Member thumper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizrdbrth View Post
    I've only done the guide during a teardown. But I can tell you that it's easier to remove the rotor ahead of time when the chain is on the bike. Put it in high gear, grab the brake and bust it loose. Much easier with a shorter breaker bolt or the proper tool than an axle bolt, but either will work.



    I've boogered up a couple of axles doing this, so if you have a die of the proper size I'd recomend threading it on the axle beforehand. If you booger it up you can chase the threads with the die.



    Go through your toolbox. I found that a few of my pitman arm pullers and 3 arm pullers have the same thread on their bolts.


    I've got the sheave holder, made for yamaha by K&L Tools. Really nice tool, works on scooters as well.

    Its bright orange, well built, and cost only $40 bucks or so. Not bad compared to the $199 that Yamaha wanted. I had my local shop

    order it directly from K&L.

    So, it would be easy to pull the crank case cover, pull the rotor, then remove the two bolts from the guide.....I just don't know if I'd have

    enough wiggle room to pull it out through the bottom, then push it back up and have it align properly again.

    It would be nice if I didn't even have to remove the sprocket! maybe just remove the auto adjuster unit???

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