Spokes Torque?
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Thread: Spokes Torque?

  1. #1
    Junior Member FlyinHawaiian's Avatar
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    I've read the posts about truing-up the wheels by applying more or less torque to the spokes - however, about how much torque should be applied before trying to true the wheel? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Xracer's Avatar
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    Are you talking about a complete respoke? If that's the case about 14 inch pounds.

  3. #3
    Junior Member FlyinHawaiian's Avatar
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    thx XRacer - yes, I found 4 broken spokes, and replaced all. I put about 20 in-lbs on them all, should I back 'em off and start over? Couldn't find the specs in the service manual. it's an '02, factory everything.

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  5. #4
    Junior Member FlyinHawaiian's Avatar
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    Also, I checked the distance of hub-rim; it's all within 1/8"; is that acceptable? Thanks again for your reply....

  6. #5
    Senior Member Xracer's Avatar
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    Your not going to road race are you? If not I think you have done just fine but be sure to recheck them after a few miles as they will "bed in".

  7. #6
    Junior Member FlyinHawaiian's Avatar
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    No racing - just 30 or so miles r/t commuting. Appreciate your info, and will get the tire back on and give'r a whirl!



    Wish me luck, and I'll re-post results (from the ICU if necessary!)



    ALoha,

    Dave

  8. #7
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Props for having the courage to delve into the mysterious universe of wheelbuilding. Most people are chickens.




  9. #8
    Junior Member FlyinHawaiian's Avatar
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    It's amazing what one can do when he's too cheap to pay the m/c shop mechanics. They estimated 2-3 hours (at $95/per) for the labor! It's definitely not a quick job, but it's not scary ... Don't tell anyone, but once the tire, tube and the huge rubber band were off, it wasn't so mysterious - and I was quite relieved to see that the spoke nipples (end nuts) had a #3 Phillips/combo/square drive built-in - so my electric driver with the torque control carried the day. Of course, out of the 32 spokes, about a dozen of them were rusted to where I had to use a small Crescent wrench to free them up, but all of them, once freed, responded well to the driver. The installation trick seemed to be, to remove/install them one pair at a time and tighten gradually once all the new spokes were on.



    Thanks for the support - Will let you know how it goes after the local shop reinstalls the tire for me; notwithstanding a dose of hubris!

  10. #9
    Junior Member FlyinHawaiian's Avatar
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    It's amazing what one can do when he's too cheap to pay the m/c shop mechanics. They estimated 2-3 hours (at $95/per) for the labor! It's definitely not a quick job, but it's not scary ... Don't tell anyone, but once the tire, tube and the huge rubber band were off, it wasn't so mysterious - and I was quite relieved to see that the spoke nipples (end nuts) had a #3 Phillips/combo/square drive built-in - so my electric driver with the torque control carried the day. Of course, out of the 32 spokes, about a dozen of them were rusted to where I had to use a small Crescent wrench to free them up, but all of them, once freed, responded well to the driver. The installation trick seemed to be, to remove/install them one pair at a time and tighten gradually once all the new spokes were on.



    Thanks for the support - Will let you know how it goes after the local shop reinstalls the tire for me; notwithstanding a dose of hubris!

  11. #10
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Back in the day I'd built a wheel assembly table that held the hub with a bolt, spaced the rim to the hub with 3 or 4 (depending on spoke count) L-shaped brackets, lace in all the spokes snug, tighten opposite spokes 2 inch/pounds at a time, and the wheel always came out within 1/16-inch the the same *ping* from each spoke. Usually the biggest wobble was where the rim was welded. Total assembly time was maybe 15-20 minutes. It took just a little math to calculate how to set the L-brackets for centering rims with different diameters and/or widths on any hub. Definately one of my most money-making inventions considering the typical 2.5-hour flat rate for dissasembling and reassembling a stock wheel. The boss charged an extra 0.5 hours for measuring and calculating a non-standard rim size or offset. Actual total time from bike on the lift to bike off the lift was no more than 0.75 hour for a tock rim, 1 hour for a custom rim. A small pnuematic impact made disassembly and initial reassembly 5-minute jobs. The entire table top spun so I didn't have to jump back and forth to tighten opposing spokes. Indicators on both sides of the table showed exactly which spoke was to be torqued next--no confusion. The most time consuming part was putting all the spokes in the holes and starting the nipples. It didn't take long to figure out to put all the inside spokes in place first, then the outside spokes.




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