"click" then rpms drops off at idle?
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  1. #1
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    As the topic states, my ongoing work on getting the TW back in good running order has got

    me to a new troubleshooting spot! I always did enjoy this part



    If the bike is warm (I discount all oddities when warming up) and say, sitting at a stop light,

    I have to keep my hand on the throttle to keep the bike from quitting. When it's good, it's good,

    but when it's not, this is the symptom:



    The engine "clicks" (audibly) and then the rpms drop off, if I've got the throttle slightly

    cracked open so I'm just above idle, my hand won't move the throttle position, but the bike

    will return to idle speed. If I then let off the throttle and then re-apply it to where I was,

    the process starts over.



    If I leave my hand off the throttle, it'll totally quit one time out of ten or so, but it starts

    right back up.



    The bike has had a recent valve adjustment (< 100 miles ago, and the problem existed before that

    with about the same frequency), I've pulled the carb and cleaned it up, checked wiring, and

    verified that the hoses to the canister are clear (see previous thread about california bike).
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

  2. #2
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    My W.A.G. is that your throttle cables are binding and the "click" you're hearing is the carb slamming closed.



    Further, (since it's the internet, and my W.A.G. is worth zackly what you payed fer it), that you mis-routed the cables when you re-installed the tank after the valve adjustment, or just routed them the way they were when you took it off, which was wrong.



    That, and your idle speed was never right, and your throttle cables have slack in them. I'll also bet that your throttle works really swell if you just sit in the driveway with the front wheel turned all the way to the right (left, on '01 or later bikes) except it won't idle.



    If i'm wrong you win all my Barry Manilow records.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    lizrdbrth: hahahahah I'm not much of a Manilow fan



    Nah, the cables are actually in pretty good shape, the issue happens whether the

    cables are pulling or not. I've run into the issue you describe with my old bike

    (where when turned one direction it works much differently): except with that one,

    it revved up when you turned right. I had adjusted them already and will (for

    sanity's sake) take another look at them.



    I don't know if idle speed is right; I have no tach but it sounds good to me;

    maybe 1200-1400rpm by ear. The clicking really does sound like its in the engine,

    and almost certainly "feels" like its being caused by the carb.



    I think maybe this weekend I'll tear the carb back off it and go through it much

    more carefully, paying a bit more attention than I did the first time.
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member lizrdbrth's Avatar
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    The whole "click" thing has me baffled, but look for a torn diaphragm while you're in there.



    Or hit up Qwerty.



    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.

    Powdercoated '87 frame, extended swingarm, YZ fork legs, ATV tire, 14/55, XT350 tank, spliced quick-release seat, disc brake conversion, beeg headlight, beeger rack, Lizrdcooler, Lizrdventz and bunch of other stuff all covered in invisible ink.

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  6. #5
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    Well, a small update..



    I put on the neck gaiter and snowmobiling gloves this morning and rode the bike to an

    install job we're doing in one of our remote datacenters, about a 50 mile round trip.

    I've been trying to run the thing out of gas (get rid of the old stuff that was in it

    when I got it.. let me tell ya, not easy on the little sipper ), and I finally did

    it yesterday, filled up with 89 octane at the pump (a whopping $4.19 bill) and ran 60

    or so miles today at speeds topping out at 60mph.. fastest I've had the bike going yet.



    On my way home, I used the same traffic light that I still haven't found the magic spot

    to put my steel-toe boots to trip the sensor as a metric. After sitting there for a

    full minute or so, it had only 'clicked' once, vs. previous days when in that minute

    it would have occurred 10+ times.



    Dirty old gas? Maybe.. its still doing it in a minor way, and 'bucking' at low speeds

    with minimal throttle, which I believe points to a lean condition or a poorly adjusted

    chain. I adjusted the chain yesterday, and the plug is a little white; so I'm thinking

    the second round of carb cleaning should help, and if not, bumping up from the #114 jet

    may.
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

  7. #6
    Banned qwerty's Avatar
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    Unless you ride at 7000 feet of altitude that #114 jet is probably a little lean.



    Your clicking sound is likely something hanging up inside the carb, then letting go. I'd do a complete disassemble and cleaning, checking each component for freedom of motion through its entire travel before taking it off. I'd push a little side-to-side to see if a burr was hanging up.




  8. #7
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    qwerty: sounds good, that was my game plan.. I think I'll try to come up with a

    slightly larger bore jet and see what happens, too. I certainly don't ever ride

    at 7k feet--its a long ride from here to find that kind of elevation.
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

  9. #8
    Member WINGNUT200's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jontow View Post
    As the topic states, my ongoing work on getting the TW back in good running order has got

    me to a new troubleshooting spot! I always did enjoy this part



    If the bike is warm (I discount all oddities when warming up) and say, sitting at a stop light,

    I have to keep my hand on the throttle to keep the bike from quitting. When it's good, it's good,

    but when it's not, this is the symptom:



    The engine "clicks" (audibly) and then the rpms drop off, if I've got the throttle slightly

    cracked open so I'm just above idle, my hand won't move the throttle position, but the bike

    will return to idle speed. If I then let off the throttle and then re-apply it to where I was,

    the process starts over.



    If I leave my hand off the throttle, it'll totally quit one time out of ten or so, but it starts

    right back up.



    The bike has had a recent valve adjustment (< 100 miles ago, and the problem existed before that

    with about the same frequency), I've pulled the carb and cleaned it up, checked wiring, and

    verified that the hoses to the canister are clear (see previous thread about california bike).
    I had the same problem last fall it turned out to be the coasting enricher the right side of the carb has a couple of screws under that there is a rubber diaphram that has a metal tab in the center. the kit at the dealer here is listed as coasting enricher. I just bought 2 extras for my own future. There is a couple extra parts in the kit a bushing and some other stuff to help align the push rod that hits the diaphram. when I first took out the original diaphram the metal tab had a dent worn in it. This Fall I heard the clicking again and I am thinking about adjusting the cam chain. I have 12,600 miles on my bike and my problem may be cam wear at this point or possibly the cam chain gear on the crank shaft. I hope this helps. The enricher kit cost me about $25 each.

  10. #9
    Member WINGNUT200's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jontow View Post
    Well, a small update..



    I put on the neck gaiter and snowmobiling gloves this morning and rode the bike to an

    install job we're doing in one of our remote datacenters, about a 50 mile round trip.

    I've been trying to run the thing out of gas (get rid of the old stuff that was in it

    when I got it.. let me tell ya, not easy on the little sipper ), and I finally did

    it yesterday, filled up with 89 octane at the pump (a whopping $4.19 bill) and ran 60

    or so miles today at speeds topping out at 60mph.. fastest I've had the bike going yet.



    On my way home, I used the same traffic light that I still haven't found the magic spot

    to put my steel-toe boots to trip the sensor as a metric. After sitting there for a

    full minute or so, it had only 'clicked' once, vs. previous days when in that minute

    it would have occurred 10+ times.



    Dirty old gas? Maybe.. its still doing it in a minor way, and 'bucking' at low speeds

    with minimal throttle, which I believe points to a lean condition or a poorly adjusted

    chain. I adjusted the chain yesterday, and the plug is a little white; so I'm thinking

    the second round of carb cleaning should help, and if not, bumping up from the #114 jet

    may.
    I ran low octane gas when I got my bike until I found a sticker on the bike that says 91 octane minimum I run the local 92 and still ping on hard throttle times.

  11. #10
    Senior Member jontow's Avatar
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    wingnut: The sticker on my bike says to use 92 RON gas. RON is the Research Octane Number, which

    isn't what you'll find labelled on the gas pump. 92 RON is regular old 87 octane in the USA.



    Have a look at the table, here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating



    Your bike should be fine with 87 octane pump gas.. but thank you about the enricher: I didn't see

    any holes/etc in it, but the oring outer edge on it seems a bit stretched out. I'll be replacing

    it when I've got some cash.
    --

    1997 TW, well loved, a bit modified.

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