Old, stiff short carburetor boot....
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  1. #1
    Junior Member zoomer's Avatar
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    Jun 2013
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    Hi all.

    I just got my first TW. It's an '87 with 5372 miles.

    I picked it up for $150 and an old aluminum boat.

    Front tire was flat, throttle wouldn't turn, and a dead old battery.

    It was last registered in 2003.

    Flat was fixed with a tube patch, throttle wouldn't turn cause carb was SOOO full of gunk, the slide wouldn't move at all.

    A can of carb cleaner, poking with wires through jets etc., and it runs great now.

    Anyway..... the point of this thread is actually how I got around the dried, old, shrunk boot problem that I've seen a few posts about.



    To attach the carb, I had to connect it to the airbox side first, but the boot was so old and stiff, the the clamp couldn't squeeze hard enough to clamp the boot to the carb. My fix was to cut a piece of sheet metal about 1/4" wide (the width of the clamp) and long enough to wrap around the boot. Then I put the clamp over it, and tightened it down which held it FIRMLY!!

    Next, I connected the front of the carb to the intake boot (which was disconnected from the engine) and tightened it down. The front was now hanging about 3/8" from the engine, but easily clamped right up when I put the two bolts in and snugged them down.



    I hope this might help someone.

  2. #2
    Senior Member old mad max's Avatar
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    You have what we refer to as a fixer-upper...........Make sure your fuel lines and gas tank are free of gum and rust... Make sure you change the oil... Lots of things to check out before movin' on down the road. Have fun. OMM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member small's's Avatar
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    A heat gun works good on softening up the ol rubber airbox boot. It becomes flexible once it gets nice and warm.

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  5. #4
    Junior Member zoomer's Avatar
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    I don't need a heat gun.... I live in southern New Mexico... It was about 100 degrees today!!

    I changed the fuel line and filter. The tank looks like it was coated inside with something tan (almost paint like), but no rust or loose stuff.

    Here in the desert, it's so dry that rust isn't a real problem.

    I need to do an oil/filter change, but other than that, it seems to be running really well now.

    Anything else you think I should look at, change, or adjust?

    Thanks.

  6. #5
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Pictures! We need pictures.



    And make dang sure you get the right oil filter, the one with 4 little holes on the end that goes into the engine. Oil through those little holes goes up to lube the camshaft.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  7. #6
    Junior Member zoomer's Avatar
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    Where do you suggest getting the oil filter?

  8. #7
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoomer View Post
    Where do you suggest getting the oil filter?


    Actually, take the oil filter out and look at it. If it is a fine mesh wire screen you can clean and re use it.
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  9. #8
    Senior Member silverhead's Avatar
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    Central Iowa, USA
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    That's a heck of a find for 150 bucks!



    I bought a new airbox boot and the damn thing was just as short as the previous one. I solved the problem of getting it on by pulling the carb out of the intake manifold and clamping the airbox side down tight. Then I pulled the carb forward into the intake manifold and clamped it down.



    It's still holding.
    1993 TW200

  10. #9
    Senior Member elime's Avatar
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    I have two 87"s. I paid $1100 for one and it has a salvage title and $450 for the other and had to invest another $200 or so into it. Both are the same color scheme as yours. I think you did really well!!!!
    Long live the internal combustion engine!

  11. #10
    Senior Member Stromper's Avatar
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    Oct 2011
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    FYI have repaired and beautified old boots with a coating of

    black silicone rubber



    Filled in cracks and shiny black

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