Just curious what WOT means.
Ok, This is my first post and I have little mechanical experience but I have spent a lot of time on the forum researching my issue. So Here it goes
1999 TW with 1600 miles
The bike had 275 miles on it when I bought it last year. The guy literally just parked it one day, bought a Harley and never rode it again. It sat for about 13 years and was never ridden.
I changed the plug, put carb cleaner and rode it on the road and some local trails last summer. Seemed to run rough but got me where I wanted to go.
This year, had the carb cleaned, new fuel filter, and chain adjusted. My issue now is that the Clutch seems to slip really bad until the bike warms up. I have to use WOT in order to get it to move even
a little. Once the bike is warmed up it will get going but still seems to slip once I come to a stop and have to take off again. Gears 1-3 seem to slip the worst and then 5th gear surges back and forth.
I am getting horrible gas mileage, and now I have an oil leak coming from the right crank case gasket. (I assume from the WOT just to get it moving)
My question is should I replace the clutch with only 1500 miles or is it something else. The clutch spring is in the proper position. The oil was just changed with 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil and I
used the same weight last year just a different brand. Clutch cable was adjusted during Carb Cleaning. Any help you guys can offer would be great. This is a great forum.
It's when you pin it.
"keep it punched"
So did this slipping start happening after the cable was adjusted? Almost sounds like it may not have been adjusted correctly. Did you replace the the handlebars or add bar risers? I just put some ProTaper ATV SE high bars on mine and I had to move my clutch able to the left and it's still a bit snug.
'95 TW200G - TCI skid, ProTaper bars, amber Jimbo, DMO pegs, IRC GP-1, DG-O w/TTR230 header, Brisk BR12ZC, ProCycle jet kit, K&N filter, DID x-ring, TCI Sequoia rack, storage tube, JNS light
'04 Buell XB12S Lightning - Drummer exhaust, race ECM, K&N, open airbox, RC right side scoop, Corbin seat, fender eliminator Michelin Pilot Power 2CT
What climate are you in (i.e. what temps)? What oil did you use and was that when this all started?
Forever grateful for all your help brother
It all started after the carb cleaning and oil change. The chain was also adjusted and I was wondering if maybe it was adjusted too tight and creating too much drag on the engine. The Oil is 10w40 synthetic motorcycle oil which I used last year and I ride in mild temperatures in Michigan. The summer has not been hot. 70s and maybe 80s. Handle bars were not replaced and clutch feels the same as it did last year. Engages at almost 100%. I checked and the clutch spring is connected properly at the engine.
My other question now is should I just go ahead and replace the clutch because I am going to have to take the Crank Case Cover off to replace the gasket anyways? I know there is an internal clutch adjustment as well and I am wondering if I should try that first. The bike had been sitting for 13 years and I'm wondering if the clutch is just messed up from sitting for so long. Anyways thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Synthetic oil scrubs the innards of motors really good cleaning away crud that had built up from conventional oil around old gaskets. Then boom you have an oil leak.
See the thread below for more info....
I'm assuming you did the oil change by the book. Cleaned both oil filters and verified oil flow by loosening the oil bleed screw on the cylinder head?
Here is a link to all of the slipping clutch threads
Last edited by rm_hm; 06-28-2013 at 02:29 PM.
Did the oil you put in specify that it was for motorcycles with wet clutches? If the clutch didn't slip before the oil change, but does now, it's likely the oil is incompatible with wet clutches. If the leak isn't bad I would postpone fixing it until you can nail down the cause of the clutch slipping. With only 1600 miles you really shouldn't have to change the clutch unless it's been abused.
My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.
That's what I was leaning towards. The motor oil in a TW actually lubes the clutch as well and as RM stated it is not uncommon for a TW to leak after putting good oil in it, especial if it is too thin oil although that doesn't seem to be your case.
I would try changing out the oil again, the one quart it takes is cheap and easy enough, to see if that fixes the issue before going into the more expensive and complicated possibilities. Don't under estimate the effect of oil on a single cylinder air cooled engine. The oil I upgraded mine to has made a world of difference in shifting, speed, engine temp, warm up and pretty much everything else. These engines run on air, fuel and oil.
Forever grateful for all your help brother