Updating a '91 Tdub-- Asking the experts!
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  1. #1
    Senior Member GaryL's Avatar
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    Jun 2013
    Forestburgh, NY

    Updating a '91 Tdub-- Asking the experts!

    New here and I have been reading a lot but getting a bit confused over what updates I should be doing.

    I bought a bone stock and very pristine 1991 TW200B with 675 miles on it and I have now driven it for 200 miles after making sure all systems were working and adjusted properly. I love the bike and can just continue riding it as it is but I know there are some common and beneficial updates I can and maybe should do to make it better.

    Right now the only issue I notice is in the carburetor. Sometimes it idles fine and other times it idles high or will stall when coming to a stop. I am sure a good cleaning is in order but I also see lots of discussion about changing the jet and shimming the needle. I think my carb is a TK model but don't honestly know for sure. What jet should I install and where do I get these parts from?

    I also notice when I am cruising at 45-50 MPH there seems to be a bucking feeling and I am not quite sure what is causing it or how you guys might describe this.

    I ride around my home on local secondary roads and on occasion I might go off road for a short run in to a good fishing stream so I would say my usage is 95% road with 5% off road. I don't need or want to go fast but I do think I should change to different sprockets a little better suited for mostly road riding. What combo seems to be best for this? My tires are good and I am perfectly satisfied with the stock rubber that is in excellent shape with almost new tread.

    I am thinking once I get the carb dialed in and the gearing switched for road use I should be just fine for my needs but I do need some tech advise so I buy the correct parts and carb kit with the right jets. I can't think of any thing else I would want to change right now like I said the bike is showroom clean and completely rid-able right now. I will be checking the valve adjustment and cam tension when I get in to the carb cleaning and rebuild.

    Thanks for the help and all the great articles and discussions here.

  2. #2
    Senior Member peruano's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
    Lower Rio Grande, New Mexico
    If it was me, I'd clean the carb and not mess with jets or shims. Unless you are in a special situation adjusting the idle will probably do after a cleaning. Inspect those tires to make sure they have not aged in the 10=12 year, and probably you should replace them if you can conveniently afford to do so for safety sake. They could be make the highway noise of knobby tires or have a flat or wear spot that you are hearing.
    Everyone has a different viewpoint on sprockets, but again ride it awhile and decide for yourself. Maybe Mr. Yamaha knew best about the gearing. JMHO. Tom
    Tom - TW200 2002, Kawasaki VN 500 2006

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  3. #3
    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Mar 2013
    Spokane, Washington
    They are typically adjusted lean from the factory for emmissions. Try some "Lucus Deep Fuel Cleaner" to clean the carb without taking it off, it can really work wonders on a gunked up carb, although yours sounds pretty good, besides being lean from the factory. Try adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw out more. There is probably a plug or tiny cap on the bottom of your carb to keep folks from messing with the adjustments. Take it off, and adjust the screw out more. This will solve the lean/surge problem you have.
    Sprockets? Honestly, if you don't plan on going more than 60/65 leave it as it came from the factory. It will climb hills and go anywhere as it is.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member GaryL's Avatar
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    Jun 2013
    Forestburgh, NY
    Thanks guys. As for the 22 year old tires you can be sure I have inspected and re inspected them a few times. I don't see any weather checking or cracks and since the bike was only ever ridden in fields and on soft ground they do look just like new with no flat spots. The bike was stored in a cool, dry, dark garage all it's life and there is zero rust anywhere. I have already begun adding fuel/carb cleaner but I prefer the Sea Foam I use in my outboards that works great for them. The only real way to clean it any better is to take it apart and see what crud might reside inside. I called it bucking but I do like the surge term as a better description.
    As for the sprocket gearing, I am sure Mr. Yamaha knows best for how they expected most users to ride these bike but then I have to consider that I might be a little different from most users and have no intentions of doing much dirt riding at all. We have some old logging roads and grass covered trails leading in to various fishing holes but that's about the extent of off road riding I plan to do. I do think a bit taller on the top end would reduce the RPMs some and be a better all around choice for me as I don't honestly need such low gearing in first. I do plan on replacing the chain at around 1,000 miles even if it is not needed so the sprockets, if I do them, would be the natural thing at that time. I did run it up to 65 once and although the engine was reving it had no problem getting there for a short burst. JMHO but I don't think this bike was designed for 65 with any regularity and it seems to be much happier at 45-50 which is fine around my area.

  6. #5
    Senior Member liquidsilver's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
    SW Washington
    There was a tip elsewhere on the forum that said you can rotate the carb 90° and access the bottom side to do basic cleaning. I did this and it worked very well for me. It beat going through the full carb removal process.
    Richard (a.k.a. LiquidSilver)

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