Battery 101
Close
    
    
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
Like Tree8Likes

Thread: Battery 101

  1. #1
    Senior Member TW_in_BC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    502

    Battery 101

    There have been a LOT of threads started lately, with a common theme; dead or dying batteries...
    I'm hoping the Mods or Admin can make this a sticky in the technical section...Testing your lead-acid battery.

    First of all, make sure that your water/electrolyte levels are within spec. If you have an Gel cell, AGM (Absorbed Glass mat) or SLA (Sealed lead-acid) battery, this is out of your control.
    Secondly, even if it is a "Brand New" battery, fresh off the shelf...put it on a trickle charger (1 amp or less) for 24 hours before testing it. After FULLY charging it, connect it to a load (a car's headlight, for instance) for a few minutes to remove the "surface" charge. Ideally, you should let it sit for 12 hours after removing the surface charge, but you CAN go ahead and test it now...these tests will determine whether or not your battery IS capable of running your equipment, or whether it is the source of of your problems.

    Now that it is charged, check the OCV (Open Circuit voltage)...meter across both terminals, with the battery out of the bike or totally disconnected from it.
    Your meter should indicate between 12.7 and 13.2 volts - maybe more depending on the battery - but the point being that it should show MORE THAN 12...

    At 12 volts, the battery is considered to be only 25% charged.

    This will give you an "idea" of the health of your battery...a battery that has been on 24 hr trickle charge and still falls outside of the OCV range is of no use.
    Consider it as DEAD.
    However, the OCV test is not conclusive...a battery that passes this test can still be faulty!

    The next test would be a load test; this will show you how well your battery performs when in use.

    With your meter still reading the battery voltage (12.7 - 13.2), connect a load to the terminals (the car's headlight can serve as a load) and watch the FLV (Full Load Voltage).
    The reading should drop...the exact amount it will drop will depend on the internal health of the battery. Having said this, the reading should NOT drop below 10 or 11 volts. If it does, it indicates an internal fault in the battery, a fault that cannot be fixed. The only solution is to replace the battery.
    When performing a Load Test, it is also important to notice how quickly the battery recovers back to full voltage, when the load is removed.

    That is battery testing in a nutshell...there is much more to be learned about batteries, but this easy procedure will help you to determine whether the battery YOU have is up to the task.
    These tests do NOT address the issue of corroded connections or poor grounds....that is another subject.
    Last edited by TW_in_BC; 09-29-2014 at 02:00 AM.
    TopPredator and Fred like this.

  2. #2
    Junior Member airess's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    6
    I am totally battery illiterate and need some help. I purchased a tw 200 in may, the guy had just put in a new battery. I rode it a few times, started it up a few times but have left it on a Black and Decker battery maintainer for the last few months. the green light indicating full battery has been on but when I tried to stat it recently the battery was completely dead. took it out and no acid in it. refilled the acid, put it back in the bike and back on the maintainer. flashing green light indicating re-charging. after about 2 days the lights worked and it almost started. left the maintainer on until the light was steady green and guess what? completely dead battery and out of acid. what did I /am I doing wrong?

  3. #3
    Banned ZDR1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,030
    you can order batteries with acid and without, sounds like the guy did not put the acid in, you just might of fried the battery.

  4. Remove Advertisements
    TW200Forum.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    rbm
    rbm is offline
    Senior Member rbm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    4,299
    Yep, replace it. I wouldn't trust a battery that was run without acid.

  6. #5
    Junior Member airess's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by revelation View Post
    Good battery, great price.
    New AGM YTZ7S ATV Battery Arctic Cat E Ton 70 90 Kasea Skyhawk 50 Kawasaki KFX90 | eBay
    $27 bucks delivered.
    I just put on in my bike and have no complaints.
    this works on a TW 200 I assume? also, do these batteries come charged and if not can I use my black n decker maintainer or should I buy a battery tender jr

  7. #6
    Senior Member Fred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Turtle Wrangling the Sierras
    Posts
    18,413
    airess may want to check output of the battery tender as chargers can go bad and cook (overcharge) the battery they are attempting to service. A simple test with ammeter is good idea. I try to always ask myself "what assumptions am I making?" and quickly test them before drawing a conclusion based on a chain of assumptions. I am on my third battery charger after previous ones failed and killed/ cooked trolling motor batteries.
    2003 TW200 "Betty Boop"
    2006 TW200 "Nibbler", a.k.a. “Mr.Gizmo"
    Hidden Content All Things Considered I’ld Rather Be Motorcycling

  8. #7
    Senior Member Dryden-Tdub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Dryden NY
    Posts
    6,336
    Quote Originally Posted by revelation View Post
    Fred how do you use the ammeter to check the tender to see if it will fry the battery or not? Doesn't that depend on the tenders ability to shutdown when the battery is fully charged?
    This should help.

    multimeter.png


    I believe you would just replace the light bulb in this picture with your battery charger.


    Tom
    Last edited by Dryden-Tdub; 09-29-2014 at 07:30 PM. Reason: left out content

  9. #8
    Senior Member Dryden-Tdub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Dryden NY
    Posts
    6,336
    [QUOTE=revelation;142804]And that tells you if the battery tender will fry your battery? Can a 1 or 2 amp battery tender somehow become an overcharging electric monster? I figured at the worst it could only stop charging or the mechanism that shuts the charger off when the battery is full could malfunction so that the charger continues putting out amps long after the battery is full. Thanks for the input but I still don't understand how the ammeter will test this possibility. If the tender is going to not stop charging when the battery is full and damage my battery I would like to know how to test this using an ammeter. I admit my knowledge of electronics is painfully limited and hope someone can clarify how to do this test.[/QUOTE


    I will try my best to help. A "battery tender" type charger is considered a "trickle charger". All this means is that the output or "amps" are equal to the expected discharge rate of the battery. In truth they are very slightly higher than the discharge rate of the battery type they are designed to charge/maintain. There are no magic tricks to raise or lower the amps based on the condition of the battery. If a batter tender type charger says it has a 1 amp output then when you measure the amp output with a multimeter it should be the same number. If your tender is intended to do it's job at 1 amp output and your charger circuitry fails and it is cranking out 5 amps you will cook your battery once it reaches charge capacity. I am no expert but feel this is a decent description of what you can expect.


    Tom

  10. #9
    Senior Member rurlndum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    462
    [QUOTE=Dryden-Tdub;142815]
    Quote Originally Posted by revelation View Post
    And that tells you if the battery tender will fry your battery? Can a 1 or 2 amp battery tender somehow become an overcharging electric monster? I figured at the worst it could only stop charging or the mechanism that shuts the charger off when the battery is full could malfunction so that the charger continues putting out amps long after the battery is full. Thanks for the input but I still don't understand how the ammeter will test this possibility. If the tender is going to not stop charging when the battery is full and damage my battery I would like to know how to test this using an ammeter. I admit my knowledge of electronics is painfully limited and hope someone can clarify how to do this test.[/QUOTE


    I will try my best to help. A "battery tender" type charger is considered a "trickle charger".

    Tom
    "Battery Tender battery chargers are designed to fully charge and maintain a wide range of styles of lead acid batteries in ways that avoid the potential damaging effects that can be caused by most trickle chargers."


  11. #10
    Senior Member TopPredator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bel Air Maryland
    Posts
    4,168
    Quote Originally Posted by revelation View Post
    Found an interesting article on battery care Motorcycle Consumer News: The Care and Feeding of Your Pet Battery
    Seems there's more to know about this than I'd previously thought.
    This is what it had to say about charging:
    Battery Charging--Easy Does It

    A motorcycle battery should never receive the kind of high-rate booster charge intended for a car battery, and unfortunately that always seems to be the only type of charger a service station has on hand when your bike needs help.

    Inexpensive trickle charger with pigtail connector allows easy battery charging. Do not leave these charging longer than overnight without monitoring the battery.
    To learn the proper maximum charging rate for your battery, look at the alphanumeric code printed across the case of the battery and you will usually find its Amp/Hour rating. If it's not obvious, check your owners manual. The proper trickle-charging rate for a motorcycle battery is one-tenth of the A/H rating for as long as 10 hours, depending on how discharged it is. Charging faster than 2.02.5 amps causes overheating which can warp and even melt the battery case if ignored. High-rate charging also speeds up internal corrosion, and its visible sign is sediment buildup under the cells, which if it reaches high enough, will also permanently short out the battery. Too high a charging rate can also result in a battery that does not hold a charge because too-rapid transformation of the lead sulfate may actually trap sulfate under a surface coating of rejuvenated lead, producing a battery that can test okay but fails quickly. Thankfully, this last effect can be reversed with a very slow charge of no more than 1¼20 (yes, that's one-twentieth) of rated capacity for 25 to 30 hours.

    Therefore, because we really don't want a powerful charger, a good battery charger for most purposes is the inexpensive low-output type. Typically selling for around $20, the so-called "trickle chargers" usually produce no more than 1.2 amps. They often incorporate a solid-state feedback circuit that will taper the charge down to even lower levels as the battery voltage comes back up, preventing overcharging. Most convenient are the quick-connect type that provide a pigtail connector that can be permanently attached to the battery. The trickle charger will also work on your car battery, but even more slowly, and produces the same battery-friendly results.

    Both the taper-rate and trickle charger supply only a fixed voltage. However, the lead-antimony battery should be charged at 1415 volts, but the lead-calcium type needs l516 volts to reach full charge. What's the voltage of your charger? Does it match your battery type?

    Constant current chargers like the Optimate or Battery Tender brands are called smart chargers because they can vary the charging voltage to keep current constant and charge a battery much more quickly. We'll cover their other advantages in a future article.
    Nice find Revelation, This battery 101 should get us a few College Credits.
    87bags likes this.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Sponosred Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. new battery
    By jpuck in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 01-01-2014, 07:37 PM
  2. New Battery Help
    By cptrout in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-05-2012, 08:12 AM
  3. New battery
    By trbixler in forum TW200 Classifieds
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-25-2012, 09:24 AM
  4. Best battery?
    By Matthew Rowland in forum Performance and Customization
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 02-06-2012, 10:02 AM
  5. How do I get to the battery
    By mike m in forum Technical Help
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 02-14-2011, 09:27 PM

Search tags for this page

where do i find atv batteries that i charge myself

Click on a term to search for related topics.