Beginners Guide to Base Gasket Replacement
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Thread: Beginners Guide to Base Gasket Replacement

  1. #1
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    I had to replace the base gasket on my TW recently, and have noticed that a few others are facing the same issue. So, I thought I would post up a guide to give you an idea of what's involved, and a reference if you decide to give it a shot.



    So, here goes:



    Service manuals here (for specifications and additional insight) Thanks Petrus!
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

  2. #2
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Intro - If you have some experience working on your TW, just use the TW200 main manual. It provides enough detail you should be fine. If you have little or no experience you may want more detail, thus the purpose of this guide. The guide may look a little daunting, but none of this work is difficult. Like eating an elephant you just need to approach it one step at a time. I would encourage you to read through the instructions and maybe watch the videos to get an overview, then dive in. Read one set of instructions, then do that particular task and move on to the next and repeat.



    If you're concerned you won't be able to remember where everything goes take pictures with your digital camera, or better yet get an accomplice to do so.



    I've done the base gasket twice, now. The second time was because I didn't verify I had the correct base gasket the first time. Yeah, I know, kind of dumb of me. The parts person assured me the newer part number would supersede the older one. It didn't. You can avoid my mistake by simply ordering parts for a 2010 TW.



    The first time I did the guide I took pictures and wrote up the description. I described how to retain cam timing. In revising the guide I filmed video, and demonstrated how to restore cam timing. So this aspect of the video description and written instructions is different.



    After viewing the videos it has caused me some anguish to recognize that I made some mistakes. Each time I saw a mistake, I went to the written guide and revised it to reflect the better way. So, you'll see some differences between the video and written instructions. You can choose which way to go with cam timing, otherwise I would follow the written guide. I just included the video because it's helpful for some people to see it done. I wish I could do it again to clean up the videos, but it's impractical for me to do so, and I think it's beneficial for you to see the mistakes I made so you can avoid them. So, recognize the videos aren't completely accurate, the written guide is much better.

    Last edited by B-dub; 12-29-2014 at 05:53 PM.
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    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

  3. #3
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Obtain the parts - At the minimum you will need a base gasket and head gasket. Some base gaskets have been defective from the factory. The new improved version is # 5VC-11351-10-00 (part # supplied by Qwerty). Be sure to get this one or you may be doing the job again. Just tell the parts person you want a base gasket for a 2010 TW. The manual says you shouldn't reuse the piston pin circlip. Since the associated o rings are low cost it would be wise to replace them also. This engine can build a lot of heat which degrades o-rings over time. I recommend rockymountainatvmc.com. They normally have parts in stock, ship quickly, and parts are priced competitively. They also have a good online parts catalog. You can look at the exploded views to see what you need, then go ahead and place the order or go to your local dealer with a little better understanding of what you need to get.



    Thanks to bogey 72 and others for providing guidance and encouragement, and to jwashkau for compiling a list of parts, including diagrams that I've included here for your reference.



    Quote Originally Posted by jwashkau
    UPDATE for anyone else wanting to do the same thing and not knowing exactly what to buy: (I hope this is all correct, someone please let me know if it is not!)



    My parts list (that I had my local dealer pricematch to partzilla)



    5VC-11351-10-00, GASKET, CYLINDER (Qty. 1) @ $8.96 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...351-10-00.html) FYI: My TW is a 2007, but I am using the 2010+ gasket as others have noted, NOT the 5VC-11351-01-00 which the dealer recommends



    1NU-11181-00-00, GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD (Qty. 1) @ $18.73 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...181-00-00.html)



    93210-72529-00, O-RING (Qty. 1) @ $3.23 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...-72529-00.html)



    93210-13361-00, O-RING (Qty.1) @ $1.55 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...-13361-00.html)



    90430-14131-00, GASKET (Qty. 1) @ $2.19 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...-14131-00.html)



    93450-17044-00, CIRCLIP (Qty. 2) @ $1.53 -- (Pricematch link: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...-17044-00.html)



    Head Gasket Parts:





    Base Gasket Parts:





    Piston Circlips:

    Last edited by B-dub; 12-29-2014 at 05:55 PM.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Clean everything - Begin by thoroughly cleaning your motorcycle. If you've ridden it very long with the leak it's collected quite a bit of oily grit. You can learn from my mistake. After washing my TW it looked clean, but when I started removing parts I realized it was still quite dirty. Be sure to clean your bike thoroughly so as to avoid getting dirt in the engine. On this page there is some insight from Lizrdbrth and Qwerty how to get your engine spotlessly clean.
    Last edited by B-dub; 12-29-2014 at 09:31 PM.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

  6. #5
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Gain Access



    Remove the Seat - There are two bolts easily seen by looking under the rear of the seat, above the rear tire. Remove them with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 10mm socket or equivalent. Sorry for the mess!!!
    Last edited by B-dub; 12-29-2014 at 06:00 PM.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

  7. #6
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Remove the Side Covers - The right hand cover just pulls off, the left cover requires you to remove two Phillips head screws, after which you can pull the cover off.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

  8. #7
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Remove the Gas Tank - Remove the bolt at the back of the tank. Turn the petcock to off. Get something to plug the fuel line with in case your petcock doesn't seal completely, then remove the line from the carburetor and plug it. Pull up on the back of the tank and to the rear to remove the tank.
    Last edited by B-dub; 12-29-2014 at 06:12 PM.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

  9. #8
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Remove the Exhaust head pipe - Remove the two bolts securing the head pipe to the head, and loosen the clamp securing the head pipe to the muffler. Then just pull foward to remove the head pipe.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

  10. #9
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Remove the Carburetor - On the left side of the bike loosen the two clamps that secure the carburetor to the boots. Rotate the top of the carburetor toward you. This will allow you room to remove the two bolts holding the intake boot to the head. Pivot the front of the carburetor away from you and it will slip out of the rear boot. Position the carburetor out of the way and secure it to the frame. I didn't find it necessary to remove the cables.



    Remove the spark plug -
    Last edited by B-dub; 12-29-2014 at 06:13 PM.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

  11. #10
    Senior Member B-dub's Avatar
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    Remove the timing covers - The timing sprocket cover on the side of the head is secured with two Phillips head screws, well at least mine was. Remove them and pull the cover off.
    Last edited by B-dub; 12-29-2014 at 06:14 PM.
    My handle is B-dub, I ride a T-dub, and drive a V-dub.

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