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Thread: Electrical theory/info.

  1. #1
    Senior Member AGman's Avatar
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    Electrical theory/info.

    11111
    Last edited by AGman; 08-06-2018 at 03:57 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Tweaker's Avatar
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    Nice thank you.
    ”Everything You Know is Wrong”

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    Senior Member phelonius's Avatar
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    It's not really rocket science. Electrons go from here to there along conductive wires and in some cases, printed circuits. Along the way they create magnetic fields that do various jobs like increase voltage or amperage. Energize magnetic fields that generate more electricity from movement of other circuits. ( generators or alternators).
    Along the way they are guided by conductors and semi conductors. Semiconductors are those mysterious things that let electrons move one way but not go the other way,
    ( diodes in rectifiers are a good example) Light emitting diodes are another. The general behavior of electrons in a motorcycle are pretty easy to understand in the older bikes that don't have on board computers like in fool injection systems. These operate on PFM and are best understood by trained experts that have been schooled in that type of magic.
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    Phelonius

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    Senior Member phelonius's Avatar
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    No, PFM. is Pure ------ Magic.
    Phelonius

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    Super Moderator littletommy's Avatar
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    Yes. I'll stick it, but everyone please keep it on track to be really useful.
    Quote Originally Posted by AGman View Post
    Can the OP add to the post if its a sticky? I may be able to dig up some more stuff.
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    Senior Member SportsterDoc's Avatar
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    voltages

    AGMan
    Thank you for the links
    Although I have a strong electrical background (electrician, managed industrial motor rewind shop), I am looking forward to getting better acquainted with CDI.

    Every M/C rider should have a voltmeter/ohmmeter (multimeter) and post voltage values when asking about a problem:

    1. KEY OFF battery voltage, at the battery: Normal is 12.8 (AGM battery), or 12.6 (standard lead acid battery) for no load. If just taken off a charger, voltage may be 13 point something. The battery needs to sit for a while before a reading is useful, or turn on key for a few seconds for headlight load to settle battery voltage. In the case of a bad cell, the other cells overcharge and give an almost normal overall reading, until load is applied.
    • If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
    • Battery has a bad cell

    2. KEY ON battery voltage (headlight on): Normal is not under about 12.5 initially, but will decline the longer that the headlight is on, without the motor running. Under no load, 12.5 volts indicates 50% discharge, but under load, it is just voltage drop.
    • If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
    • Battery has a bad cell

    3. KEY ON battery voltage while cranking: Normal is not under 10.5 volts
    • If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
    • Battery has a bad cell or
    • Battery cable(s) have high resistance or
    • Starter draws too much current or
    • Solenoid contacts have high resistance

    4. If the bike is running, battery voltage at about 2,000 RPMs should be 13.8 to 14.8 volts
    Last edited by SportsterDoc; 02-10-2018 at 04:40 PM. Reason: voltages added
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    Super Moderator JerseyJeeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by littletommy View Post
    Yes. I'll stick it, but everyone please keep it on track to be really useful.
    I could make it really useful.. too useful? lol
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