I made it to the east bay area where I can stop at a friend's in Lafayette and do some maintenance. My tires are about bald with the odometer showing 9700. I started out in June at 2600 miles. They did pretty well for being original equipment from 2003. I guess that cracked rubber just means the tires are hardened and last longer. I ordered stock tires from Motorcycle Superstore for $157 with free shipping. I've read the descriptions of changing tires with an unsettling dread, knowing I would be eventually faced with my own rubber/rim wrestling match one day. I have tire irons and a 12V pump. My first challenge will be getting the bike on some kind of support to give me access to remove the wheels. The best improvisation seems to be the milk crate with a couple guys helping lift it up. Or I suppose I could just lay it over on one side if I remove the battery first. The trip has been trouble free, just adding oil, filter and lubing the chain, but I have a laundry list of periodic maintenance items that go with the 10,000 mile mark and I'll be getting to them as I progress toward Los Angeles and Orange County seeing friends and family. I'm headed to warm weather for the winter and maybe go back to work for a few months as a dental tech in Palm Springs.