https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...X-X-Ring-Chain this is the best chain for this bike.
I figgered it was as easy as going down to my local $billion$ dollar/year huge Clawson Powersports, with whom I have done business since they were a tiny 3 guy business (48 years). But no- everything is like post-consumer now, you want just ONE , we gonna make you bleed for it. Ain't agonna sell you no single link, buy the entire new chain (Ka-CHING!) or go home, we don't wanna talk to ya.
I'll need a master-link too, but I can get them. But if you happen to have an old greasy one...
Last edited by Thubbadubba; 11-03-2014 at 04:23 AM.
All chains are not created equal. I think if you need a new master link you should stick with the one for your particular brand chain. To go along with this, are you putting on a new front sprocket but using an old chain and rear sprocket? Just my opinion but it is best to start with all new parts when making changes in the drive chain. These parts do best when they wear together. When I bought my new DID VX 428 chains from Lytleracinggroup I also purchased two spare masters for that chain at just a couple dollars each. I also bought one chain that had 130 links instead of the 122 needed for stock. This gave me the ability to mess around with various sprockets if I want to. Thinking ahead sometimes comes in handy.
1987 Yamaha BW350 Big WheelBe Decisive! Right or Wrong just make a decision. The road of life is paved with flat squirrels that couldn't make a decision.
Since light travels faster than sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong.
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I just bought one at my local motorcycle shop for $2
Zdiver1, Not sure if you were asking me, but I have just bought a 2006, 3900 gentle miles, $2500, VERY nice condition.
I figgered I'd fool around with the 15T see if I liked it, watch wear and adjustment. I understand the need to replace all sprockets and chain at the same time. I was surprised one feller would replace a worn front while still using the same rear. In my case, I think the chain and sprockets are in VERY good condition, lubed all the time, driven gently, never in sand or anything. Because of this I am just replacing the front sprocket for a gearing change experiment. Later I can change them all together when needed.
GaryL, I was just about to go out and try that. Dug out my motorcycle lift jack. Put on my work duds.
About lubing the o-ring chains... I never do. Some folks claim that this will attract dust/dirt that will chew up the o-ring. In my feeble pea-brain I am fixated on the idea that the wiping action of the chain on the sprockets, coupled with the high contact pressure and presence of dust and dirt insures that you will not have lube where you need it very long. This has worked for me and I'll prolly stick with it but watch and evaluate. On some bikes I have flipped the sprockets to give me a fresh surface for a new chain. Seemed to work out OK but my discretionary income is greater now.
Last edited by Thubbadubba; 10-28-2014 at 12:39 AM.
you can get new chain and sprocket sets on ebay for like$40 delivered on ebay. Nice to start off with new stuff all round. My experience is that using an old chain on a new sprocket will cause excessive wear on the new sprocket.
You can measure chain wear, or at least chain "stretch".
Place bike in 1st gear, block rear wheel as pictured, remove chain guard, and measure length of chain. I use 18" which is 37 rivets. The rivets are exactly 1/2" apart. If your measurements are exactly 18" you are good, if not, what I have read is .006"/rivet stretch is max. allowable, which would be roughly 18 1/4".
You can see my chain has stretched just over 1/8".
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