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Discussion Starter #1
Is anyone running or have they run a 12 tooth Front sprocket on a 2005 TW? I've ran a 70 Rear on my 2007 that I sold. I'm running a 12 tooth Front on my 06 TTR 250 with no issues other than faster than normal wear and would guess the same holds true for a TW.

I have a stock Front presently on my 05 with a 62 Rear and with some Idaho trips already on the books for this summer I want to Gear Down a bit more. I know a 13 Front will fit but curious about a 12?

Thanks
 

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My initial reaction is you're approaching diminshing returns; such short gearing produces constant shifting without much constructive results.

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Alabama is a little flatter than the intermountain west where Bodi rides.
I've followed him on some stuff where I wish I had better stump pulling torque than my 13x55 sprockets provided. One has not experienced truly steep and technical riding until going for a ride with Bodi.

Granted such low gearing makes for a purpose built machine that can top out at ~35mph. However my attitude with the TW has always been: "Better to get there slow than to not be able to get there at all." Or stated another way "Your bike may be faster but mine will go places yourse will not".

Actually the 13 tooth front sprocket allows chain to rub on swing arm's protective sleeve during big suspension articulations and I assume a 12 tooth would rub even more frequently. For extended chain and sprocket life I now recommend getting the same 1/14ths or 2/14ths additional torque multiplication via a 7 to 14% bigger rear sprocket rather than dropping one or two teeth on the front.
 

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When one really needs those low gears a bunch, it's almost always better to go with a large rear sprocket, way easier maybe?
I really think Giz hit the mark with dual sprocket set up as dual sport bike. If one really wanted the ultimate in crawling and control then
Id suggest a centripetal clutch like Reckluse
Tonto
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Fred. I think I will drop the Front to just a 13 and stick with my 62 rear for now. I keep contemplating that 26 8 14 Duro. I wish they made the Duro V2 in that size. I didn't know they made a Recluse for the TW. It's those conditions when the low gears come into play. At 9500 climbing a goat trail to an Idaho lookout when you kill it with a 2 foot rock step in front of you and your back tire is about to drop off the 18" tree root you just climbed. As Fred and a few others know I like a low geared Jazzy I can crab walk through the tuff stuff. I will look into a Recluse. Wish they made one for my 220 KDX or 250 TTR
I think its rider15f on YouTube. Watch his video on Custer Lookout or some of his others and you get the idea
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Thanks Fred. I think I will drop the Front to just a 13 and stick with my 62 rear for now. I keep contemplating that 26 8 14 Duro. I wish they made the Duro V2 in that size. I didn't know they made a Recluse for the TW. It's those conditions when the low gears come into play. At 9500 climbing a goat trail to an Idaho lookout when you kill it with a 2 foot rock step in front of you and your back tire is about to drop off the 18" tree root you just climbed. As Fred and a few others know I like a low geared Jazzy I can crab walk through the tuff stuff. I will look into a Recluse. Wish they made one for my 220 KDX or 250 TTR
I think its rider15f on YouTube. Watch his video on Custer Lookout or some of his others and you get the idea
Thanks
Even if I had the right gearing and right bike I wouldn't ride to Custer Lookout. No way to I have the nads to ride the side-hill exposure Offroadrider15f does. He's is an expert rider and I am not nor ever will be and I accept that. I don't mind riding difficult trails as long as I'm not gonna die falling off a cliff or extreme side-hill. I like a little safety.

It's been a couple years since I checked but Recluse didn't make a "auto" clutch for the TW but things could have changed. There was another company of which I can't remember that I "think" made one for the TW but it was more expensive than it was worth for a TW. It was really expensive as I believe Recluse is out of my price range as well. I'd love to cheat with the Recluse but I'll hand clutch it till I die.
 

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Can you purposely slip your clutch with the recluse? If not, then no way. You miss out on a lot of dynamic riding without a clutch. My only knowledge of recluse is the light clutch lever.
 

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One can clutch as much you want with a Centripedal Clutch. Works the same as it always did, but you'll not need to slip it anymore. Been the secret weapon for years for extreme off road.
So much more control, no more needing to slip your clutch.
For those who might not know, poor technique to slip your clutch a bunch. Sign of inexperienced rider.
That practice will leave you stranded way out when the discs burn up. Been There Done that. No Fun Not to mention, clutch abuse also leads to overheating (friction is a great heat generator, like brakes) and subsequent oil break down, with contaminated oil
If you must slip your clutch a bunch then be sure and change your oil extremely often as the clutch fibers are not good lubricants, invest in an aftermarket heavy duty clutch. When the discs burn up, you'll not be climbing nothing.
Sadly I think Admiral is correct the Recluse may not be available for the TW, I checked years ago too
Certainly for most riders its not something needed or be willing to spend $1000 on a clutch. But if one wanted to push the limits
and well funded I'm sure it could be done. And it would be Awesome. But really one could simply get a better bike for way less hassle, then one could really rip it up, if thats your cup of tea. I think Tws are intended for folks past being "rippers" just out to enjoy the ride on trials. To experience a centripetal clutch, ride an old Honda trail 70, many Honda quads too. Or a KTM
TWs are not intended to be Competitive nor the Fastest trail bike out there. The Rule being "the correct tool for the job"
Most importantly, enjoy the ride and ride as much as you can.
 

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Slipping the clutch always seemed a somewhat inelegant technique to me best relegated to the 2-smoke memories of my youth. Back then I had a greater willingness to thoroughly abuse machinery. Now I mostly just gear down and count on those two big front and rear rubbery gyroscopes' momentum to git 'er done. :D
 

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From what I understand slipping the clutch is an accepted enduro technique to provide variable torque, maintain optimal traction (not breaking it), and reduce frequency of gear shifting. I've yet to see any other bike with the short turning radius, low center of gravity, and larger tire size more capable then a TW. I'm not about to try and be a competitor with anyone but myself but I do enjoy challenging my riding ability on technical trails.

It's not the fastest bike so gearing it lower doesn't make sense to some until you consider it's lack of hill climbing ability in any other gear then 1st. A few extra teeth on the back is adequate for me. Now I can climb somewhat steep grades without loosing any speed in higher gears.
 

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ive ridden a lot with 12 55 with no problems or drawbacks. its really worthwhile and whatever. lower gearing is really one of the most important mods I did to m y b I ke. for the steepest stuff I still prefer the honda fa t cat which comes stock with stock auto clutch and front and rear handbrake and a super low seat height

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