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I am rebuilding a salvaged and wrecked TW for adventure use. I ultimately decided to integrate a 12v cigarette lighter socket directly into the indicator light cluster.
![IMG_20190821_214022[1].jpg]()
![IMG_20190821_213656[1].jpg]()
![IMG_20190821_214145[1].jpg]()
I went with this approach because I wanted a super-clean install, and also because many of the 12v to USB products seem unreliable. The cigarette lighter socket and wiring are unlikely to fail, and if the 12v cigarette to USB adapter fails, it is easily replaced.
The bike I acquired was missing the indicator light cluster housing. Also, the carrier that holds the indicator light housing and speedometer was damaged.
There are replica units that have metric markings that are available online inexpensively. I bought one to cannibalize.
![s-l500.jpg]()
The replicas are poor quality. One of the shortcuts that the manufacturer of the replica took was omitting the metal sleeves that bear the compression pressure of the two bolts that hold the carrier to the bike. I dremeled the metal sleeves from the damaged, stock carrier, wrapped them with electrical tape a few times, and pressed them into the replica carrier. This should make it as durable as a factory carrier.
I started by pressing out the three indicator light lenses out of the replica housing. They are surprisingly easy to pop out with just moderate finger pressure.
Next, I cut a piece of black ABS plastic with a compound miter saw, so that it fit perfectly on the face of the housing. I purchased the material off Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007WTF02 .
I roughed up the back of the smooth material, applied 5 minute epoxy, clamped the material to the housing, and then let it harden overnight.
Finally, I used a step drill bit to drill a hole suitable for the 12v outlet. I used standard HSS drill bits to drill holes for the new LED indicators. I used these LEDs off Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK . They are incredibly dim, but I prefer that because I ride in very rural, dark areas.
There isn't much room for labels for the indicators, but their color and position make the indicators obvious. The yellow indicator is neutral, the singular red indicator is high beam, and the two indicators arranged horizontally are left and right turn signal.
![IMG_20190821_214022[1].jpg](/d2/attachments/196/196752-bb0feb4c2926faa997a91ffba43d7033.jpg)
![IMG_20190821_213656[1].jpg](/d2/attachments/196/196756-e906becf6ddf8c9997857e02bffbf08a.jpg)
![IMG_20190821_214145[1].jpg](/d2/attachments/196/196760-d61a844e9a6e2dd3b1672823e229b53d.jpg)
I went with this approach because I wanted a super-clean install, and also because many of the 12v to USB products seem unreliable. The cigarette lighter socket and wiring are unlikely to fail, and if the 12v cigarette to USB adapter fails, it is easily replaced.
The bike I acquired was missing the indicator light cluster housing. Also, the carrier that holds the indicator light housing and speedometer was damaged.
There are replica units that have metric markings that are available online inexpensively. I bought one to cannibalize.
The replicas are poor quality. One of the shortcuts that the manufacturer of the replica took was omitting the metal sleeves that bear the compression pressure of the two bolts that hold the carrier to the bike. I dremeled the metal sleeves from the damaged, stock carrier, wrapped them with electrical tape a few times, and pressed them into the replica carrier. This should make it as durable as a factory carrier.
I started by pressing out the three indicator light lenses out of the replica housing. They are surprisingly easy to pop out with just moderate finger pressure.
Next, I cut a piece of black ABS plastic with a compound miter saw, so that it fit perfectly on the face of the housing. I purchased the material off Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007WTF02 .
I roughed up the back of the smooth material, applied 5 minute epoxy, clamped the material to the housing, and then let it harden overnight.
Finally, I used a step drill bit to drill a hole suitable for the 12v outlet. I used standard HSS drill bits to drill holes for the new LED indicators. I used these LEDs off Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK . They are incredibly dim, but I prefer that because I ride in very rural, dark areas.
There isn't much room for labels for the indicators, but their color and position make the indicators obvious. The yellow indicator is neutral, the singular red indicator is high beam, and the two indicators arranged horizontally are left and right turn signal.
