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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. New to the forum. I have this 200 that I've been trying to get running properly. First off, it would start, run/idle fine. For about a minute. Then, Any throttle and it would blubber and too much throttle it will die. So, it seemed like a carb problem. If I turned off the fuel, after a minute or so, it would clear up and rev until the carb was dry. So, FF, after a cheapo carb kit, carb overflow leaking, etc, and several attempts, I broke down and purchased an OEM needle valve/ seat and that cured the carb issue. So, after that, the battery was completely dead and it wouldn't start. I put a charger on it for an hour, and it started. Blubbered badly. Turned the fuel off until it ran dry, but didn't change anything. So, I hooked up a known good lawn tractor battery, via jumper cables, and it started the bike. It fired up, blubbered for just a few seconds, then it started idling really fast. Like 3000 rpm fast. But, I could hit the gas and it would rev with no blubbering. So, I started turning the idle adjust screw out ( someone had it screwed waaaay in) and got it down to a nice idle. So, I put the seat on and went for a ride. Perfect! NOT. LOL
Next day, I kick it and kick it, ( E start doesn't work) finally starts and it's blubbering again. Same old ****! So, I took a known good battery out of my wifes quad and put it in the 200 and started it.....nope. Blubber blubber blubber...My buddy tells me that I need to test the stator. Does anyone know the values/ process for doing so? I kinda know how to do it, but I need specs. How about a service manual? Oh, and I replace the spark plug, and boot right off the bat. The old boot broke apart when I took it off. Thanks for any help!
 

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Service manuals are here - Service and Repair Manuals - make sure you’re looking at the right one. Diagnostics are included, but we have had mixed results proving the stator results

Could be something as simple as a blocked fuel cap – so don’t go spending more than you need to

The ignition circuit is independent from the battery circuit, so at least you know that works ok - lol

Welcome to the board …..
 

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Have you tinkered around with the choke at all when idling and applying throttle? Does it make a difference in the open choke position?

Are you able to rev freely as soon as the fuel flow is turned off? Or does the bowl have to drain a little before you can start revving? (This along with a difference in open choke revving might point to an air intake/air starvation issue)

When you say blubbering (just for clarification) do you mean it struggles to run? Or like it's not running smooth/missing? Sputter/close to dying?

Maybe replace fuel line from petcock to carb and check vents as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I turn the throttle it misses bad. Turn it too far or for too long and it dies. I'm pretty sure, at this point, it's not a fuel problem.
When I first got it, the first thing I did was check the plug. That's when the plug cap broke apart (the pcs fell out) So, I replaced those and it ran fine. So, I went for a ride around the block and it was great. thought I had it fixed. But, when I was almost back to my driveway, I had just done a bit of WOT, I let off for a bit, and it started blubbering and died. I turned off the fuel, and kicked it few times and it started and was ok, until the carb started to run dry. Then I opened the fuel and after a minute it started blubbering again. Repeat. That led me to do the carb job on it.
 

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Did you check the float level when you had the carb apart? Sounds like it is set too high and flooding the high speed jet with too much fuel when you open the throttle thus raising the slide needle up the jet and sucking raw fuel up through said high speed jet.
 
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Theres another post about a new carb you can buy for $50 that seems to work well out of the box. Thread is Redracing carb. Only a suggestion if your carb problems persist.
 

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Does your headlight come on when the ignition switch is turned on (and the engine is not running), or does it only come on when the bike is running?
 

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Some terminology can be confusing. In post #1 author states "... I started turning the IDLE ADJUST SCREW out ( someone had it screwed waaaay in)"
Does this refer to the external idle speed thumbwheel that sets the throttle stop , and thus idle speed, or the mixture screw that lurks under the little alloy cap that adjusts via a blade screwdriver? They have different names, do different things and adjustments make significantly different results.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Yes I checked the float level. However at one point in this whole process, one of the times that I had the carb off I blew air thru the carb overflow. After I put it back on, it would overflow onto the floor. That was the first that it did that. So Your premise that it was gettting too much fuel was/is probably correct and the o/f was clogged. It was after this incident that I finally ordered the OEM needle valve and seat. Doesn't leak anymore.

Did you check the float level when you had the carb apart? Sounds like it is set too high and flooding the high speed jet with too much fuel when you open the throttle thus raising the slide needle up the jet and sucking raw fuel up through said high speed jet.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No head light until it starts. Although when I put the good battery in it, I didn't even notice. But up until then, no headlight until started. And the battery that was in it was dry as a bone. I put water in it and charged it, but I think it's shot. I checked the voltage on it and it was around 8.5 volts.
Oh, and I wasn't able to open any of the files for the manual. My computer is old (idk 12 or 14 years old) and it won't let me open the files unless I download a file converter. IDK???/ I'm not that swift on computers! LOL But, up until very recently I could and did many times just do a search for a ___ service manual and I could always find one for many types of bikes or atv's.

Does your headlight come on when the ignition switch is turned on (and the engine is not running), or does it only come on when the bike is running?
 

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It may be wanting to download something such as Adobe Reader which is a good thing. It will allow your computer to recognize PDF files which a lot of manuals and other documents are converted to and downloaded as such.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don't see anything "firefox." What I don't get is, up until just a month or 2 ago I could find almost any manual and have it my fingertips in just a few minutes. Couple months ago I had to find a trx 450r manual. Bingo. No problem. Then a few weeks ago, my computer flipped out (not the 1st time) and I lost it. So a few days ago I needed it again and I couldn't find one to download. So a guy from a trx forum emailed me the chapters that I needed.


Download the manual - right click on it it - select "open with" - select "firefox"

Much quicker than Adobe
 

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Discussion Starter #20
In the lower left of my screen I have a Explore icon, a google chrome icon and a mozilla firefox icon. Not sure if that helps.

Explains a lot - if you had W7 and firfeox as your browser, my previous advice would have worked - XP I don't know what to advise .....
 
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